C4 - Spark Plugs
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
C4 - Spark Plugs
I'm planning on changing plugs on my 85 - is there anything I should know before I start? Looks like a couple of the could be hard to replace - just wondering if any tricks out there that I should know about.
Thanks!!!!
Thanks!!!!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,160
Likes: 1,733
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
C4 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Other than to keep anyone who doesnt like to hear you cussing away from the car while you do the passenger side, nope.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,021
Likes: 7
From: Morgan Hill and Marina California
Run it hard and get it hot before, and shut it down
with a minimum of idling. Let cool before starting to
pull plugs.
Always blow spark plug holes out with compressed air
before your pull the plugs. You don't want any bits of
grit getting into the cylinder. If it's particularly ugly,
consider flushing with Gunk and a hose first (keep the
Opti dry, damn I'm glad I don't have one), or at least
blow it out, crack the plug loose, and blow again.
Change one plug at a time, and lay the old ones down
so you can figure out which cylinder they came out of.
Only remove one plug wire at a time. That way you CAN'T
screw up putting them back. And remove by the boot,
NOT the wire.
Permatex antiseize compound on the new threads.
Lottsa paper towels to clean that silver goop up.
Tighten with torque wrench to spec.
Contemplate the relative appearance of the old plugs
over a beer when done. The right color is a smidge
grayer than a pair of tan Dockers slacks.
I don't remember that any were particularly hard on
my '87. It's a lot easier than on my Pathfinder
(fortunately 105K mile change interval) or a '68
Firebird 400 #7 (there's a trick on that one).
with a minimum of idling. Let cool before starting to
pull plugs.
Always blow spark plug holes out with compressed air
before your pull the plugs. You don't want any bits of
grit getting into the cylinder. If it's particularly ugly,
consider flushing with Gunk and a hose first (keep the
Opti dry, damn I'm glad I don't have one), or at least
blow it out, crack the plug loose, and blow again.
Change one plug at a time, and lay the old ones down
so you can figure out which cylinder they came out of.
Only remove one plug wire at a time. That way you CAN'T
screw up putting them back. And remove by the boot,
NOT the wire.
Permatex antiseize compound on the new threads.
Lottsa paper towels to clean that silver goop up.
Tighten with torque wrench to spec.
Contemplate the relative appearance of the old plugs
over a beer when done. The right color is a smidge
grayer than a pair of tan Dockers slacks.
I don't remember that any were particularly hard on
my '87. It's a lot easier than on my Pathfinder
(fortunately 105K mile change interval) or a '68
Firebird 400 #7 (there's a trick on that one).
Last edited by Chuck Tribolet; Apr 19, 2011 at 09:28 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
Chuck Tribolet at least most of it. One plug at a time, pull the plug wires off by the boot and anti-seize on the threads.I find that it is easier to get to #8 from under the car using the spark plug socket and a small piece of 1/2" square bar inserted into the socket. Then use a open end to turn the socket. #4 is easier to get to using an extension from outside the wheel well.
I usually "cut back" my plug electrode. If you do a search it will explain how and why. If you can't find the information, send me a PM.
John
Racer
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
From: Marlborough CT
Just did mine last night. The passenger side was a pain in the azz! I used a mixed combination of 1 long extensions 1 short extension and 1 swivel stub extension. I started on the passenger side because I wanted to get the hardest ones done first. The driver side was easy. The two toughest ones were the one closest to the firewall and the one closest to the radiator. For the one closest to the radiator I went through the wheel well (I'll post a pic) with a (in this order)long extension/stub swivel/shorter extension. The other ones you will just have to mix and match and see what works. Good luck, It was easier then I thought it would be. The pic is taken from the driver side but it will work on both sides.
Last edited by gkrynick22; Apr 19, 2011 at 10:35 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 941
Likes: 10
I run a sparkplug thread chaser in the hole to be sure the threads are clean. Last thing you want to do is cross thread a plug in a head. Then use never seize. If you use never seize the torque will be less than if you ran a plug in dry. The never seize changes the K Factor in a torque formula.
I will let you figure the torque using never seize. I never give a torque value. Then if something gets messed up, I dont get hollered at LOL !
8Valve
I will let you figure the torque using never seize. I never give a torque value. Then if something gets messed up, I dont get hollered at LOL !
8Valve
Last edited by 8valve; Apr 19, 2011 at 11:37 PM. Reason: typo
