Will call it a core, don't know if it works, system never did since I owned the car.

Eliminated the ABS & plumbed the system for standard power brakes.

 

Not sure if it has any value, but apparently I have the same problem that you had with ABS since I got my '88. I originally had a short in the ABS relay which caused one of the fuses to blow. I fixed that but have not progressed to actually fixing the ABS system and have been trying to decide if it worth it. How difficult was eliminating it? Also, would you have the ABS relay that is in the just below the compartment behind the driver's seat? If so, are you interested in selling it if I decide that I want to try to fix my ABS? Thanks, John

 

On my track car I took the ABS out and sold it. I don't believe it was worth that much. Check my thread in the for sale section.

I made a thread on plumbing the lines without ABS, again check my threads started (tech section for this one).

 

There are 2 relays attached to the ABS pump, a spring strap that is retained by a screw holds them in place. If those are the ones you need they are yours no charge just pay shipping. I do not know if they are any good. 4.05 should cover priority mail. PM for details if I can assist.

There is a way to create a jumper connection for the brake lines in the well that the ABS pump used to live in check Aardwolf's post(s).

I cut most of the lines out of the chassis. Flared & bent the original front lines & attached them to a tee. Plumbed a new line for the front from the master cylinder to the tee. It all fits nicely between the heat shield & frame.

For the rear I left the original line from the master to the rear. After it makes a 90* bend toward the center of the car I flared it & installed a line splice fitting. A new line was fabricated from the line splice to the manual adjustable brake bias valve. The valve is mounted to a 1/4" aluminum plate that now covers the hole that the ABS mount/bottom cover was bolted to. I plumbed a new line from the bias valve to the junction block for the rear @ the left rear frame kick up.

Do not know if an adjustable bias valve is required however last year I installed the DRM spring in the master cylinder for more rear brake. May need the adjustable valve, may not but I now have the option to dial rear brake in or out.

If I still do not have enough brake to smoke all 4 tires when I want I will keep the stock brake pedal, rip the rest of the system out & go aftermarket.

Rotors are true & indexed to the hubs, SS hoses, calipers are rebuilt, booster #3 just installed along with new softer pads. It has the J55 brake option, it should stop.