Well my son got his '92 Grad present last Saturday - flipped out of course!
However, after several days of driving, the car has begun to drive poorly. It
starts fine, runs fine when cold, but after about 30 min of city driving, the
car will not run above 3K rpm, stals radomly and won't stay running. Cooled
down then restarted, cycle begins again (fine when cold). Also, if I stay on
the highway, it seems to run fine for a longer period of time. :rolleyes:

So I figure I owe him a "running car" (not a 10 sec car! :crazy: ). So with
the (excellent) support of Jeff Koop, I have "in transit" a new ('92) Opti, fuel
filter, coil, waterpump, plug wires, '96 Opti venting kit and assorted
seals/gaskets. My local dealer has agree to install my parts ($65 per hour)
est total time to be 7-8 hours. We will change the termostat (Stant
SuperStant) this weekend to a new 180 to take advantage of the opportunity.

However, I have two (2) problems I need advice for:

#1 - plugs. I've read all the posts, dealer claims the stock GM plug that came
with the car is the one to get, especially since I'm sticking to installing all
stock components (like wires, coil). He says everything is "electrically
matched" to the electronics - which makes good sense to me. So in the
end, which plug do I need??

#2 - Opti venting. I want to vent this thing and not leave it stock. I've read
the Corvette Fever article about using the '96 venting kit on the older
units - which involves drilling and a soldering iron. I've also seen the
less-effective (?) Mid-America venting kit. My issue is this - my dealer
will install my "stock" part but not the "altered" part since they must
guarantee their work. I cannot install the GM vent kit while the Opti is
on the car, but I can install the cheaper Mid-America kit with the Opti
installed - kind of a "catch 22". Should I make the GM switch and take
my chances or let the dealer do their thing and confirm its done right
and vent it after?

I know I'm taking a bit of a risk doing this work without checking other
possible "failures" but I figure the car has 81K and probably needs this work
anyways. GM dealer thinks it might be cap/rotor, or possible Opti bearings.

Opinions?? :smash:


[Modified by linkschamp, 11:30 PM 4/19/2002]

 

Seems like you have the right idea on freshening up the 92. I would NOT use the stock plugs as the platinum pucks fall off and get banged around in the cylinder till the exhaust gasses spit the pucks out. I use Bosch +4's platinum, of course, and they are great to me. What ever you choose do NOT use the stock plugs!
Put the stock Opti on and forget the vent. Just don't pressure wash the engine and you'll be fine. 8 hours is a good estimate to do ALL the work. The fuel filter is a pain in the azz so very good move to have the dealer do it. Check the fuel filter for leaking and if none is seen then you can have piece of mind. If it leaks there very well will be a fire!
Hope your son appreciates his vette. I do mine! :yesnod: :seeya


[Modified by carter200, 6:04 PM 4/19/2002]

 

Yea, I'm nervous about "things" bouncing 'round in the cyclinders... do you
have a number for the Bosch plugs??

I normally do all my own work on my vehicles - even in my "race days" back
in the mid/late sixties, but I have no time now, nor any garage space to work
in so for me (at least for now) it makes sense to pay a dealer to do it. We
plan on building a 1 car (vette) storage garage (floating cement slab) this
summer, in which we can do future work together during winter storage - we
enjoy such things and have worked on his '88 GTA in the past - I have more
tools than most mechanics.

Besides, he's a full-time student and dad has a deep wallet (well, actually
MOM has the deep wallet!!) :yesnod:

 

Number is not handy but any Auto Zone or Pep Boy kinda place should be able to look up the correct plug for you. Good luck and enjoy :seeya

 

I think you have a fuel problem and not an ignition problem.
Most likely a fuel filter or pump. My guess would be a fuel filter. Check the fuel pressure 1st.
I use Autolites in my LT-1.
AC's are too cold. I've used Bosch and NGK's but only in VW's.

 

You're on the right track with the opti here. That's exactly what mine did...and' i spent TOO much time figuring that out!

When i DID get it right...i opted to vent it with the GM kit to spite the "warranty issues", and haven't regretted it yet. I personally shy away from EZ aftermarket "fixs".

While it's at the mechanic, have him run a full diagnostic on it. Won't cost that much, and it'll give you a good idea of what to expect. ;)

 

[QUOTE]
We will change the termostat (Stant
SuperStant) this weekend to a new 180 to take advantage of the opportunity.

QUOTE]

Not sure if you are trying to lower the temp. of the motor or not, but a 180 it the factory temp. t-stat on a LT-1. Also make sure you get a LT-1 t-stat. They are different then a standard smallblock.

 

Thanks for the "heads up" - not trying to lower the temp, only trying to
take advantage of this opportunity to replace as many components as
possible before/while the Opti is getting replaced. I've always had great
luck with Stant stats so I just want to replace the stock unit with a more
reliable unit.

I'd replace the hoses but they look brand new so a save a bit there.
Already replaced the serpentine belt last week. :smash:

 

Tuneup Update... :smash:

Dropped the vette off at the GM dealership Monday night so they could get to
it first thing Tuesday. Was told car should be ready by noon Wed. Called today
at 10:30AM to check - found out "vette mechanic" was out on Tuesday and
didn't start the car until today! Service Mgr then checked with mechanic and he
said he would need a couple hours tomorrow morning to finish - but also
wanted me to know I was leaking oil from the front & rear intake, more from
the rear than the front. That would add another five hours to the repair but
that I would still get the car tomorrow by the end of the day... I guess we'll
see! :rolleyes:

I've seen plenty of post entries regarding leaking intakes, but I thought they
referred to air leaks, not oil leaks... guess ya have to watch out for both!??!

Also, when I got my shipment from from Jeff K, I decided to replace the
factory thermostat (180*) with a Stant (180*) and discovered that the
factory thermostat was in fact a Stant! It had the same numbers and
markings - looked EXACTLY the same - I was surprised. Also, there was
no sealant of any kind which also surprised me. I guess none was needed.

I was invited to come and checkout the leaking intake which I did. I had seen
"wetness" under the car when I changed the oil & filter but couldn't find where
it was coming from - car never dripped a drop. The mechanic saw the leaks
when he removed the front components (Opti, water pump, etc.) and checked
the rear to be safe. Where he showed me was sure leaking, very wet indeed
in the rear - just starting in the front. The mechanic said this was not unusual
for the LT1 nor for a car with 81K and was nothing to worry about. I sure
hope this guy knows his stuff (especially since the dealer thought it was a
good idea to wait for him to come in - they wouldn't turn the vette over to
just any another mechanic, good sign I hope!!). :yesnod:


[Modified by linkschamp, 12:10 AM 4/25/2002]

 

Could be condensation from the A/C. I think the intake leak is an oil leak.

 

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Could be condensation from the A/C. I think the intake leak is an oil leak.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Perhaps a bad choice of words on my part. By "wetness" I didn't mean to
imply water, but rather oil. There seemed to be a film of oil all over the
back of the engine that I couldn't determine the source of. Now it makes
sense that it was coming from the rear intake seal.

The dealer is going to clean the back of the engine for me so I can watch
for continued leaks - though that was :cool:

 

I understand that the oil filter adapter is another real common oil leak. If you see oil on the bottom of the engine, it is probably the culprit. It is supposed to be cheap and easy to fix.

It's on my todo list.

 

I hope they are going to replace ALL the seals in the timing cover while they're in there. There are three: crank/waterpump drive/opti drive.

What did you decide on the opti for venting? I did the corvette fever thing on mine. Didn't use the soldering gun bit...went with a high speed cutter on a dremel, went through that cap like butter, and no cracks!

Your son is a lucky guy to have a dad like you. Mine would NEVER have bought me a vette. I waited until I was 50 to get my first one...Now 57 and loving my second vette (92 LT1 roadster)

Good luck to you

 

Jeff K gave me all the gaskets you refer to. But... when it rains it pours!

I called on the car yesterday afternoon to check if the car was ready and
was told that the mechanic (while removing the intake) cracked my windshield!
They offered to fix it free but couldn't get to it until Friday. Ok, call my own
insurance and talk - decide to let the dealer replace it windshield. Car will
be worked on first thing Friday morning says the service mgr.

Tripped up to the dealer at noon today - no car. Glass company was to be
at dealership first thing (8:00AM) and didn't show, so the dealership took it
to the glass company. It came back at 1:00PM. I was told that it had to sit
at least 3 hours for the silcone seal to cure. Ok, I leave it there until 4:00PM.

Ok, so I inspect the car for the work done and any other possible damage.
Everything looks ok. I pay and now sit around for 3 hours. Killing time I
go out and start looking at the windshield. I discover that the top right
(driver's side) windshield corner is about 1/8" short of the corner moulding!
Now I need this car for my son's Prom tonight so I decide to take the car
anyway - it wasn't bad and I could always put some Permatex in the gap
and it probably would have looked fine. Everything else seem to look ok.
They even replaced the (expensive) weatherstrip that was bad so I wasn't
too upset.

However, get the car home, while washing it I notice that the windshield now
has about a 1/2" chip gone from the same problem corner - looks like the
moulding is so tight that it put stress on the corner and broke it. Too late
to call the dealer back - so I call my insurance again. Find out since it is not
a crack only a chunk missing, I can't claim it and have it done right at my
usual place - I have to go back to have the dealer/glass company replace it
since the installation was bogus. If that wasn't bad enough, there are so
many spider cracks in my acrylic top now it looks awful from the inside, and
there is an air leak somewhere near the top of the windshield when there
wasn't a whisper before!! :eek:

At best, I'll get another windshield and loose the car for another 2 days.
Unbelievable!!

On the plus side, all the work I had done made a hugh difference in the
performance of the car. It runs so much cooler - never reaches 200* in
the 40 min I drove it. Runs extremely smooth, idles perfectly. I didn't
get on the accelerator - didn't want to stress the body and hurt the
windshield... little did I know. Once the windshield has set properly
after the next repair, I'll test the car in more detail.

So tomorrow the dealer gets another phone call - and I get another
headache :mad

 

Made the trip to the dealers Sat AM. The Service Advisor and Technician who
worked on the car inspected it in detail. Conclusion: windshield is wasted! It
has a defect (ripple) in the top middle, weather stripping installed wrong at the
top part of the windsheild, outside moulding not seating properly and the chip
had gotten a tad bigger.

They were stuned to the the damage done to the acrylic top. Driving it back
up there, two 1" cracks directly in the middle 6" from the front had started!
So result: windshield to get replaced next Tuesday. Monday we are to meet
and "discuss" what action will be taken with the acrylic top. I can't wait for
that conversaton :rolleyes:

Before leaving, I had a talk with the mechanic who asked how the car was
running. I had told him that I had not accelerated hard nor gone above 55
for fear of flexing the body and damaging the glass before the urethane had
set (requires 8-10 hours for total cure). He said it was one of the nicer '92's
he had seen and definetly the quietest C4 he had heard (that wasn't new). I
told him that was a result of a 2 week "search & replace" of every screw that
was loose/missing, molding that was loose or rubber bumpers/grommits that
were missing. He also explained how he accidently broke the glass while taking
the intake off (a breaker resting on the altenator and bottom of windshield
slipped of and "popped" the bottom of the glass - about a 8" crack).

Anyway, on the way back home, I decided to "test" out the repair work. On the
highway on ramp, got to 80 quickly - smooth as silk, very strong acceleration
and temp running at 182*. Decided to try some dead stop starts and was
shocked the first time I did it... I forgot from my "older days" how important
it was to ensure the car was pointing in the direction prior to stomping on the
the gas - wow! With the ASR enabled, the car broke the tires and fish-tailed
with very little effort before the ASR light came on and caused the wheels to
to spin down with a slight wheel hop - and jerk back into a straight line. Ok,
so now ASR off - and we tried it again... its been a long time since I "power
slid" out of a turn leaving two strips of rubber about 20' long before I
realized what I was doing and where I was (highway offramp). If I didn't trust
my son, I would be extremely nervous about this much power in his hands!
I'm impressed with the acceleration of this thing - even with its 2:59 gears. I
can only imagine the breathtaking ride you ZR1 owners must be getting when
you mash-the-gas!

Although the car just had an oil change (Mobil 1) & oil filter (GM) change, we
are going to change it again tomorrow ('bout 400 miles). I want to be sure
that any debris which may have fallen in when the intake & Opti-Spark was
removed gets taken out quickly with a new a filter/oil - I think its a smart move
because something always seems to fall in despite your best efforts. Also
threw in a bottle of Water Weter (after using a turkey baster to remove the
same amount of coolant prior to dropping in the WW).

I really have to thank the folks on the forum (and Jeff K) for all the advice
and info/pointers in getting the car to the point it is at now mechanically.
I think my son is going to have a great summer. Wonder if he will ever let
me drive it again... driving it was so :cool: