Brake Booster Replacement
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 655
Likes: 2
From: Rio Vista ca.
Brake Booster Replacement
I'm pretty sure that I need to replace the brake booster in my '89 coupe. I don't know if I'm up to the task, however. I'd take it to my mechanic (not a dealer) but I'm not sure that he could do the job any better than I could and I'm sure it wouldn't be cheap. I've done a search here and am a little put off by the difficulties that many people have had doing this job. I'm not much of a wrench and don't have a lot of tools. My only wrenching experience on my Vette has been to replace the factory mufflers with a Corsa cat-back system and to lower the car, front and back. Removing the front spring and reinstalling it after sanding down the rubber bushings took me two weeks and wouldn't have been possible without the help of many people on this forum. I guess my question to you all is do you think I can replace the booster myself with my limited wrenching experience?
Thanks, Kim
Thanks, Kim
Racer
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 467
Likes: 10
From: NE Georgia GA
On my '84, I've done it three times over the course of the last three weeks; both the original booster and its "rebuilt" replacement were bad.Trust me, I am the *master* of changing these things!
The toughest part is getting up under the dash to access the booster studs that come through the firewall. You'll need a universal/swivel deep-well 15 mm socket, which isn't in most weekend warriors' toolboxes. Other than that, the job can be accomplished with basic sockets and wrenches. It's still a tough job, even after doing it three times! If you decide to try it yourself, just be sure to get a decent name-brand booster, as you don't want to have to do it all over again!
The toughest part is getting up under the dash to access the booster studs that come through the firewall. You'll need a universal/swivel deep-well 15 mm socket, which isn't in most weekend warriors' toolboxes. Other than that, the job can be accomplished with basic sockets and wrenches. It's still a tough job, even after doing it three times! If you decide to try it yourself, just be sure to get a decent name-brand booster, as you don't want to have to do it all over again!
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,691
Likes: 71
From: Phoenix Arizona
It's not that bad (okay, it's bad) if you pull out the drivers seat. Then you can get you shoulders in there to work. Remove the dash bottom pad. Take the clip of of the brake pedal. Get a couple of long extensions (3/8 drive works best for me) a swivel, with a 13mm socket. You might need a regular and a deep. Take the two nuts off the studs. Depending upon if you are changing the master cyclinder or not either unbolt it or remove the lines. Take the arm of of the brake pedal and remove the booster.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 655
Likes: 2
From: Rio Vista ca.
Thanks for the reply, Blue. The OEM booster is around $700 and just not do-able right now. Any after-market boosters that aren't duds? I don't want to do this more than once. Also, did you remove the front seat to do the replacement? I'll take your advice on sockets if I decide to do this project myself.
Kim
Kim
Racer
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 467
Likes: 10
From: NE Georgia GA
Both my replacement boosters were A1-Cardone brand. Not to speak badly about them, as we've used their stuff for a long time around the shop and have had very few out of the box failures.
I'd definitely remove the seat. I tried it both ways, and in the end found myself wishing I'd just removed it to start with.
I'd definitely remove the seat. I tried it both ways, and in the end found myself wishing I'd just removed it to start with.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16,837
Likes: 338
From: Database Error Indiana
It's not that bad (okay, it's bad) if you pull out the drivers seat. Then you can get you shoulders in there to work. Remove the dash bottom pad. Take the clip of of the brake pedal. Get a couple of long extensions (3/8 drive works best for me) a swivel, with a 13mm socket. You might need a regular and a deep. Take the two nuts off the studs. Depending upon if you are changing the master cyclinder or not either unbolt it or remove the lines. Take the arm of of the brake pedal and remove the booster.
Except I use 1/4" drive tools.
Race Director
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 14,924
Likes: 9
From: Merritt Ils Fl
Rock Auto 
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,1884
$700.00 for a booster.....smoking the good stuff again.
If you have done springs you can do your booster. Take the seat out and you are golden.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,1884
$700.00 for a booster.....smoking the good stuff again.
If you have done springs you can do your booster. Take the seat out and you are golden.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 655
Likes: 2
From: Rio Vista ca.
Rock Auto
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,1884
$700.00 for a booster.....smoking the good stuff again.
If you have done springs you can do your booster. Take the seat out and you are golden.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,ca...,parttype,1884
$700.00 for a booster.....smoking the good stuff again.
If you have done springs you can do your booster. Take the seat out and you are golden.
Racer
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 467
Likes: 10
From: NE Georgia GA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,193
Likes: 16
I bought my booster from the Partslady on ebay..no probs for 2 years. You have to remove the front seat to get to those nuts. A trick to get them back on is to tape them to the socket..trust me on this. Getting the booster out of the engine bay is a bitch and requires you to twist it in every direction possible but it will come out, had to move a bracket as well but you'll see what is in the way. Took me a day as I had to walk away a few times..to calm down ..drink a beer, etc..but it all worked out..much easier than the water pump......if you want to maintain this car yourself..get the manuals..get more tools..hell the manual will tell you what tools you'll need...then tackle small jobs until you get better at it...you'll save a ton of money...
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 5
From: Bay Shore, NY
I just did this job last week. It wasn't bad. Took about an hour. I scored a used booster from a forum member but I've seen rebuilt units in both the metal and plastic at RockAuto, eBay and AutoZone, all reasonable.
From doing the job, here's what I learned that maybe of some assistance.
1. 15mm & 13mm shallow and deep sockets are a must in both 3/8 and 1/4 drive
2. Have some spare Jesus clips around for when the original one goes flying after you take it off (hence the name Jesus clip)
3. Extensions and universals make the difference between easy and impossible
I removed the seat and it was definitely easier to get under the dash that way. I also loosened and removed the brace from the hood latch to the frame to get the old booster out. With that I had to remove the cruise control module and bracket. There is little room to work there and be careful of vacuum lines and electrical connections that may get snagged when you pull the old booster out.
Time and patience is definitely an asset for this job, but all in all, it wasn't the hardest thing I have done on my C4. Changing the rear wheel hub, that's another story.
From doing the job, here's what I learned that maybe of some assistance.
1. 15mm & 13mm shallow and deep sockets are a must in both 3/8 and 1/4 drive
2. Have some spare Jesus clips around for when the original one goes flying after you take it off (hence the name Jesus clip)
3. Extensions and universals make the difference between easy and impossible
I removed the seat and it was definitely easier to get under the dash that way. I also loosened and removed the brace from the hood latch to the frame to get the old booster out. With that I had to remove the cruise control module and bracket. There is little room to work there and be careful of vacuum lines and electrical connections that may get snagged when you pull the old booster out.
Time and patience is definitely an asset for this job, but all in all, it wasn't the hardest thing I have done on my C4. Changing the rear wheel hub, that's another story.
