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If you look right below the driver side headlight bucket there is a 3 wire connector called C2 in the schematic.
1) Black wire is ground
2) Tan wire is 12 volts for the low beam
3) Light Green wire is 12 volts for high beam
Disconnect the plug.
With a meter or test light at the connector end that comes from the headlight switch (turn the high beams on). You should measure 12 volts from the Black wire to the Light Green wire.
If you do, something is wrong with the wiring from that point to the headlight bulb.
If no 12 volts there is a wiring problem from that point back
to the 42 pin bulkhead connector (C100 in the schematic) that is
located behind the battery and goes thru the firewall.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; May 22, 2011 at 01:42 PM.
If you look right below the driver side headlight bucket there is a 3 wire connector called C2 in the schematic.
1) Black wire is ground
2) Tan wire is 12 volts for the low beam
3) Light Green wire is 12 volts for high beam
Disconnect the plug.
With a meter or test light at the connector end that comes from the headlight switch (turn the high beams on). You should measure 12 volts from the Black wire to the Light Green wire.
If you do, something is wrong with the wiring from that point to the headlight bulb.
If no 12 volts there is a wiring problem from that point back
to the 42 pin bulkhead connector (C100 in the schematic) that is
located behind the battery and goes thru the firewall.
ok, reads 12 volts so must have a short in the green wire somewhere between the connector and the bulb. Will take a closer look at the assembly later this week. Seems like a breach at either the connector itself or at the bulb.
Only thing I can recommend is to remove the whole headlight bucket assembly so
you can work on it on the bench. Otherwise you may end up with a back ache.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; May 24, 2011 at 08:21 AM.
Only thing I can recommend is to remove the whole headlight bucket assembly so
you can work on it on the bench. Otherwise you may end up with a back ache.
Yes, that's the plan. Maybe I'll take a look at the bearings while i'm at it. Replaced them about 6 years ago so might be due.
when the tilt knuckle goes bad you sometimes can't pull the dimmer switch back enough to make the dimmer switch work.
Jeff,
I don't want to jack this thread. I just posted a question about this about 30 minutes ago in General Discussion. I think your answer more applies to what I'm trying to figure out. Do you have more details? Is it an easy fix? Parts available? Jerry-rig it?