U Joints
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 58
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From: Victorville Ca
U Joints
How hare is it to remove the half shafts in order to replace the U joints in an '88 corvette. I am being quoted $696; seems pricey. I was just thinking about removing the shafts myself and taking them in to have the joints put on. Looks intimidating. As of now, it just clicks when I shift it into gear. No vibrations or shaking.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,221
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From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
How hare is it to remove the half shafts in order to replace the U joints in an '88 corvette. I am being quoted $696; seems pricey. I was just thinking about removing the shafts myself and taking them in to have the joints put on. Looks intimidating. As of now, it just clicks when I shift it into gear. No vibrations or shaking.
Can't take more than 2 or 3 hrs.
Buy your own press ($40) at HF and do it yourself
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 4,344
Likes: 48
From: San Marcos CA
I have done it twice now. I had the shafts out and on my bench in about 70 minutes taking my time and BS'ing with my friend who was helping me to put the car in and out of gear while I undid the fasteners on the yokes.
It took longer to put them back, but I did it myself after work one day. I used Spicer u-joints and I had them all pressed in within 20 minutes (using sockets, a hammer, and soft 25lb lead blocks as the base rather than the concrete). It went in so easy I didn't even feel guilty using a hammer. It will take you a LOT longer than that if you use el-cheapos or bamboo parts.
If you have a clunk, it's probably not the universals, but check the tightness of the axlenut and maybe lube the axle stub spline.
It took longer to put them back, but I did it myself after work one day. I used Spicer u-joints and I had them all pressed in within 20 minutes (using sockets, a hammer, and soft 25lb lead blocks as the base rather than the concrete). It went in so easy I didn't even feel guilty using a hammer. It will take you a LOT longer than that if you use el-cheapos or bamboo parts.
If you have a clunk, it's probably not the universals, but check the tightness of the axlenut and maybe lube the axle stub spline.
Last edited by mike100; May 21, 2011 at 07:26 PM.
Team Owner
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From: Riverside County Southern California
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St. Jude Donor '09 thru '20
How hare is it to remove the half shafts in order to replace the U joints in an '88 corvette. I am being quoted $696; seems pricey. I was just thinking about removing the shafts myself and taking them in to have the joints put on. Looks intimidating. As of now, it just clicks when I shift it into gear. No vibrations or shaking.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
There is a good write up posted here on the forum somewhere. And one of the mags has a good write up online somewhere too.
You can press out/in the joints with a ball joint press that you can rent from the parts store. That is what I used.
You can press out/in the joints with a ball joint press that you can rent from the parts store. That is what I used.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,939
Likes: 1
From: Vero Beach Florida
Try this thread
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vad...orpujoint.html
I did the outer U joint drivers side on my 87 today it was clicking. It's a couple hours start to finish.
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vad...orpujoint.html
I did the outer U joint drivers side on my 87 today it was clicking. It's a couple hours start to finish.
Last edited by floridamale; May 22, 2011 at 12:17 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
I did the driver's side on my 94 last weekend.
I had read a post that you could simply undo the ujoint strap bolts and wiggle the half shaft out. I tried it and I could not get it out.
I undid the tie rod end and the end of the bar opposite of the camber bolt. With those 2 removed, I could get the half shaft out. I think the service manual says to undo the leaf spring bolt too, but I didn't have to do that.
Pressing the ujoints in and out can be done easily at home with either a vise or hammer. Use a couple of old sockets so that you can contact only the half shaft over the ujoint cap and another one that only contacts the ujoint cap. Mine didn't take a lot of pressure to press them out.
I took my time and tried removing the half shafts the wrong way for a while and it took about 1.5 hours on the drivers side.
It is not too difficult and the parts are inexpensive. I would recommend doing it yourself instead of spending a lot of money.
Good Luck.
I had read a post that you could simply undo the ujoint strap bolts and wiggle the half shaft out. I tried it and I could not get it out.
I undid the tie rod end and the end of the bar opposite of the camber bolt. With those 2 removed, I could get the half shaft out. I think the service manual says to undo the leaf spring bolt too, but I didn't have to do that.
Pressing the ujoints in and out can be done easily at home with either a vise or hammer. Use a couple of old sockets so that you can contact only the half shaft over the ujoint cap and another one that only contacts the ujoint cap. Mine didn't take a lot of pressure to press them out.
I took my time and tried removing the half shafts the wrong way for a while and it took about 1.5 hours on the drivers side.
It is not too difficult and the parts are inexpensive. I would recommend doing it yourself instead of spending a lot of money.
Good Luck.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 32,967
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From: Rochester NY
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '26
If you have enough ability to get the half shaft out, you certainly don't need to take it anywhere to get the U-joints out and in. Do the whole thing yourself. Be sure to put the camber adjustment back just where it was.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 5
From: Bay Shore, NY
I did the job almost 3 years ago, it wasn't that bad. Rather easy actually once I was prepared by reading forum posts and collecting the tools I needed.
You will have to remove the sway bar link, tie-rod end and the bolt for the camber brace. I also removed the spring bolt, lower shock bolt and complete knuckle assembly (the outer joint was frozen and I had no choice). Basically, you just need enough room to work the shaft out. As I did it on my back, I thought it was easier to remove it as a unit and replace worn bushings, etc. while there.
With some long extensions you can remove the strap bolts in the inner joints and then work on the outer one. It took me 2 hours and I took my time, I probably could of done it in an hour on a lift. My u-joints were frozen so I had to get them pressed out. It cost me $10 to get the old one pressed out and a new pressed in. Totally worth it.
There are a number of really good posts here with great picture references so check them out. Its not that bad a job and you will definitely learn a lot.
You will have to remove the sway bar link, tie-rod end and the bolt for the camber brace. I also removed the spring bolt, lower shock bolt and complete knuckle assembly (the outer joint was frozen and I had no choice). Basically, you just need enough room to work the shaft out. As I did it on my back, I thought it was easier to remove it as a unit and replace worn bushings, etc. while there.
With some long extensions you can remove the strap bolts in the inner joints and then work on the outer one. It took me 2 hours and I took my time, I probably could of done it in an hour on a lift. My u-joints were frozen so I had to get them pressed out. It cost me $10 to get the old one pressed out and a new pressed in. Totally worth it.
There are a number of really good posts here with great picture references so check them out. Its not that bad a job and you will definitely learn a lot.
Cruising
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Cato WI
Do it yourself
I did the U-joints on my 88 last year. And for me I didn't take anything else apart. It does take some fanagling butit did come out. Also just press them in your self. I just use two sockets of the correct size and put it in the vise and slowly push em out and again back in. Basacally a horizontal press.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 5,695
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I did all of mine on my '91 ZR-1. I was on the road in Oregon and my outer right rear started falling apart. I ended up doing it on the street in front of my son's house. It's not too bad...a few hours if you take your time. I couldn't get the Spicer's at the time so I used the NAPA heavy duty ones which worked great.
BTW: if the U-joints are gone it's usually a good time to replace any bushings back there that are also gonna be tired.
And, the socket method works fine.
BTW: if the U-joints are gone it's usually a good time to replace any bushings back there that are also gonna be tired.
And, the socket method works fine.
Last edited by dallas916; May 25, 2011 at 04:56 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
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Definitely a possibility if the car has a lot of miles. If you jack the wheel off the ground and rock the whole tire at 6 and 12 (not hard enough to work the suspension) you should get "0" motion. If you get even 1/8" of movement there's a good chance the hub is losing its bearings. They are a challenge to replace (tons of torque on the center nut) but the alternative is grim.
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 58
Likes: 1
From: Victorville Ca
ujoints
I have done it twice now. I had the shafts out and on my bench in about 70 minutes taking my time and BS'ing with my friend who was elping me to put the car in and out of gear while I undid the fasteners on the yokes.
It took longer to put them back, but I did it myself after work one day. I used Spicer u-joints and I had them all pressed in within 20 minutes (using sockets, a hammer, and soft 25lb lead blocks as the base rather than the concrete). It went in so easy I didn't even feel guilty using a hammer. It will take you a LOT longer than that if you use el-cheapos or bamboo parts.
If you have a clunk, it's probably not the universals, but check the tightness of the axlenut and maybe lube the axle stub spline.
It took longer to put them back, but I did it myself after work one day. I used Spicer u-joints and I had them all pressed in within 20 minutes (using sockets, a hammer, and soft 25lb lead blocks as the base rather than the concrete). It went in so easy I didn't even feel guilty using a hammer. It will take you a LOT longer than that if you use el-cheapos or bamboo parts.
If you have a clunk, it's probably not the universals, but check the tightness of the axlenut and maybe lube the axle stub spline.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 195
From: folsom california
I've read that marking the half shaft / hub / differential are all a good idea so it can all be reassembled in the same positions to maintain proper balance, especially if the half shafts have never been pulled before. of course I overlooked this step when I did mine. no issues though.
one thought though, I've often wondered if replacing the strap bolts with allen head bolts would make reassembly and future disassembly easier ?
one thought though, I've often wondered if replacing the strap bolts with allen head bolts would make reassembly and future disassembly easier ?
