Radiator-which one?
got too warm thing going on. Temp got up to 240 on gauge with 160 thermostat, then turned on A/C to get the other fan to kick on-cooled to
around 190 but still climbed in traffic to 240. What is the advantage-disadvantage to the radiator places out there. I have seen Reliable, Dewitts, and AFCO. Had issues with my friends Champion rad he bought off EBAY, the 3 row came with lots of slag down in the lower hose area where some TIG welder was sloppy and had a small pinhole in the neck where he had missed welding it. I really want a 2 row radiator with a good fit and a decent price.
Here are a few reason to consider us:
1. We are a CF sponsor
2. We specialize in Corvette
3. We make our own aluminum cores, in house, in Michigan
4. All our radiators are a true Direct Fit
5. Welded by Craftsmen welders, packaged well, and shipped quickly
Tom quickly answered my questions about the correct radiator for my car, the radiator was a high quality piece, and my temps dropped approximately 14 degrees from my stock radiator. And the best part, made in the USA.
Total investment $125 for no more overheating worries.
Here are a few reason to consider us:
1. We are a CF sponsor
2. We specialize in Corvette
3. We make our own aluminum cores, in house, in Michigan
4. All our radiators are a true Direct Fit
5. Welded by Craftsmen welders, packaged well, and shipped quickly

For my LT4: I have the Dewitts dual core, factory stock fans are reprogrammed to come on at 181, off at 170, and a hypertech 160 thermostat. My typical interstate drive runs around 170-173F; for city, I finally installed a manual fan override (one fan on or off), that keeps city temps between 175-180. This keeps the fans from cycling on/off every 10-15 minutes. I ran Route 66, 2400 miles, with this setup without any issues or concerns. Most highway runs are with fans off, low 170's temps (summer or winter,)
Oil temps keep within 15-25 degrees of coolant.
I haven't seen any temp higher than 195 (A/C on, hot day, city, uphill).
I LOVE my DeWitts, install was as advertised "Direct Fit", all true. I bought direct from them, received fast shipment, plug 'n play install. No opinion on their high volume fans option, I run fine without this option here in the Colorado mountains, quick runs to Denver, and the occasional road trip thru new Utah, New Mexico and Arizona.
As a temp snob, I am clearly a happy camper here. I recommend the DeWitts Dual Core.
I did put a Dewitts in a road racing/hill climb 86 and it fit way better than my BeeCool. I had a issue with the trans cooler leaking and they replaced it free. Very good customer service, Always answers quickly! If your going aftermarket, go Dewitts!
Last edited by WW7; Jun 7, 2011 at 06:30 AM.
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Supposed to work wonders. (At least consider trying it before ordering/buying another unit. You'd have to take that stuff loose anyway -- to replace the radiator!)

Today i was driving on a 105 F weather and the temperature was at 180 F. Stopped in traffic it climbed to 202 F.
Thats all I have to say.





got too warm thing going on. Temp got up to 240 on gauge with 160 thermostat, then turned on A/C to get the other fan to kick on-cooled to
around 190 but still climbed in traffic to 240. What is the advantage-disadvantage to the radiator places out there. I have seen Reliable, Dewitts, and AFCO. Had issues with my friends Champion rad he bought off EBAY, the 3 row came with lots of slag down in the lower hose area where some TIG welder was sloppy and had a small pinhole in the neck where he had missed welding it. I really want a 2 row radiator with a good fit and a decent price.
I've also seen too many people panic about the temps reached on a hot summer's day in traffic. For the most part, GM designed these things to run hot (for emissions). They installed the EGR to prevent NOx fumes at higher temps. Mine ran up in the lower 230's before my build (under the same conditions you described.)
1/4m racers like the lower temps (under 200) to make more power -- especially if a higher-compression build is in play. Street applications (with street compression) don't need to stay that low. So, IMO, paying for a DeWitt is like putting 93 octane in a car that requires 87. You can do it, but you don't need the overkill.
Again, make sure it's clean. Even a stock replacement has been reported to cure the "issue" you descibe. And, by that I mean temps are lowered about 10-15 degrees. With a 195 stock stat, you gotta know temps were designed to be in the 200's.
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1/4m racers like the lower temps (under 200) to make more power -- especially if a higher-compression build is in play. Street applications (with street compression) don't need to stay that low. So, IMO, paying for a DeWitt is like putting 93 octane in a car that requires 87. You can do it, but you don't need the overkill.
Again, make sure it's clean. Even a stock replacement has been reported to cure the "issue" you descibe. And, by that I mean temps are lowered about 10-15 degrees. With a 195 stock stat, you gotta know temps were designed to be in the 200's.
The stock GM stat for your '95 is 180F, not 195 (early C4's), so the engineers must have decided that operating temps of 180-190F were appropriate. (Or maybe not appropriate, depending on your love of GM talent.)
Your beach trip exceeded this by 50-60 degrees. Sorry, anything over 30F in my book needs a good explanation or becomes an "issue" on my fix list.
I have no idea what "street compression" is, so I did some Google'ing and found these GM compression numbers: my LT4=10.8, your LT1=10.4, my K1500 (350cid)=8.6. I conclude you are NOT running "street compression", and this might partly explain your higher temps.
Dewitts is a Cadillac radiator, in my opinion. Worth the money, again in my opinion. People like 'em, they work, in other's opinions. And there are other dual-core or performance radiators out there that I'm sure would work as well.
I initially replaced the original factory radiator with Genuine GM, and a new 180 stat, but continued to have "heat issues" (200-225F, not bad but borderline if you're me). GM was not as expensive as a non-GM dual core, but it wasn't free either, and in the end I eventually opted for a solution and not a band aid. An expensive lesson.
I also put 93 octane in the tank when available, because this is a performance car, not a Honda or Malibu we're dealing with. I don't skimp on this vehicle, I skimp on my old Silverado instead, and run cheap 85 in it.
I don't consider my setup overkill at all, just a logical solution to a common problem with these cars. I like my 160F stat, but to return my LT4 to its intended 180F operating range, I only need to install a stock 180 stat. If you've done your due diligence about cleaning the existing radiator and air inlets, then it's time to consider something better for your car, if you think your car is worth that investment. A DeWitts is cheap in comparison to a new LT1.
Done. Apologies if I stepped on any toes




I love it!





Here are a few reason to consider us:
1. We are a CF sponsor
2. We specialize in Corvette
3. We make our own aluminum cores, in house, in Michigan
4. All our radiators are a true Direct Fit
5. Welded by Craftsmen welders, packaged well, and shipped quickly
I'll gladly throw a DeWitt's logo on the side. I can almost hear your enthusiasm from here but hey... it's the only bargaining chip I have. Ohhhhh, military discount?! Can't blame a guy for trying!
I'll gladly throw a DeWitt's logo on the side. I can almost hear your enthusiasm from here but hey... it's the only bargaining chip I have. Ohhhhh, military discount?! Can't blame a guy for trying!












