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1991 c4

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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 11:00 AM
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My 1991 C4 with T.P.I. has absolutely no power coming to the injectors. I've unplugged all of them to check for a signal and the wires are all completely dead. There's a gray wire coming off of the ecm that makes some of the injectors click when I ground a test light and probe the wire. Anybody got any clues as to what I've got going on here?
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 11:06 AM
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Your injector voltage comes from inj fuse 1 (left side), and inj fuse 2 (right).They get their voltage from the ignition feed. The ECM merely supplies the ground.
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 11:55 AM
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I checked both fuses, neither is blown. I also pulled them out to see if there was power coming to the injector slots on the fuse panel and they both have power. Any idea why there's no power at the wire harness to the injectors?

So the ecm could be bad, and not providing a sufficient ground?

Last edited by marlonb601; Jun 11, 2011 at 12:00 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 02:21 PM
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I used to own an 87 where the previous owner had to have the passenger side harness replaced due to mice chewing on them. Hard to believe that this would affect all the wires though.
Good luck!
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by corvetteronw
I used to own an 87 where the previous owner had to have the passenger side harness replaced due to mice chewing on them. Hard to believe that this would affect all the wires though.
Good luck!
All of the wires on the harness are in tact, but thanks for your response.
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Old Jun 11, 2011 | 08:14 PM
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The ECM does not supply power to the injectors. One side is upplied by one fuse, the other by the other fuse. Check again that none of the injectors have power. Check the pink black wire on each injector to a known ground.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by zr1fred
The ECM does not supply power to the injectors. One side is upplied by one fuse, the other by the other fuse. Check again that none of the injectors have power. Check the pink black wire on each injector to a known ground.
You're absolutely correct!! What I thought was a sufficient source for a ground was not. With a good ground I found that all the injector terminals had power. I also checked the injectors and all but one registered at 16.5 to 16.7 ohms. The injector that didn't read 15.5 ohms. I checked the fuel pressure at the rail and it reads 50 psi when the pump primes. After the pump stops the pressure goes to 25 psi and holds steady. When I try to start up the pressure gauge goes to 50 psi, but the car still won't start. I replaced the oil pressure switch. Could the throttle position sensor be the problem? It did test bad. What are the chances that the VATS system has something to do with the no start state?
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 08:52 PM
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Remove the power brake booster hose that goes to the booster. Pour about an ounce of gas into the hose. Reconnect. Try to start. Does it run (at least for a while?)
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by zr1fred
Remove the power brake booster hose that goes to the booster. Pour about an ounce of gas into the hose. Reconnect. Try to start. Does it run (at least for a while?)
I have squirted gas directly into the throttle body and the car starts, but once the gas burns off it dies.
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 09:39 PM
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Do you have 12v on your ecm fuse? Do you have a check engine(service engine soon) light when you juston the ignition? Do you have 12v to the oil pressure switch - orange wire? (D17 on the computer)
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Old Jun 12, 2011 | 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by zr1fred
Do you have 12v on your ecm fuse? Do you have a check engine(service engine soon) light when you juston the ignition? Do you have 12v to the oil pressure switch - orange wire? (D17 on the computer)
I check all of that and log on later with the info. Thanks for your help.
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by zr1fred
Do you have 12v on your ecm fuse? Do you have a check engine(service engine soon) light when you juston the ignition? Do you have 12v to the oil pressure switch - orange wire? (D17 on the computer)
Originally Posted by marlonb601
I check all of that and log on later with the info. Thanks for your help.
yes I have 12 volts at the ecm fuse and at the oil switch. With the ignition just turned to the on position yes the check engine light is on.
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:02 PM
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Jump terminals A and B on the ALDL and turn the key on. The check engine light should flash 3 "12" codes.....flash pause flash flash. Post if that is happening.

Now....check continuity between the injector wires where they go into the ECM and the injectors themselves with the harness unplugged from the ECM. Tell me what you have. Your '91 is batch fire....ie....all left injectors fire at the same time, and all right injectors fire at the same time.

If you have power to the injectors, continuity from the ECM to the injectors, but they aren't firing, either the ECM isn't receiving a crank signal from the distributor, or the ECM itself is faulty.

Happy hunting....post what you find out.
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Old Jun 13, 2011 | 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by marlonb601
Could the throttle position sensor be the problem? It did test bad. What are the chances that the VATS system has something to do with the no start state?
TPS could be an issue if the ECM is seeing that the throttle is wide open during cranking (clear flood mode). Measure voltage on the TPS throughout the range and post what you have.

VATS would likely cause a no-crank condition along with disabling fuel trim.
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Frizlefrak
Jump terminals A and B on the ALDL and turn the key on. The check engine light should flash 3 "12" codes.....flash pause flash flash. Post if that is happening.

Now....check continuity between the injector wires where they go into the ECM and the injectors themselves with the harness unplugged from the ECM. Tell me what you have. Your '91 is batch fire....ie....all left injectors fire at the same time, and all right injectors fire at the same time.

If you have power to the injectors, continuity from the ECM to the injectors, but they aren't firing, either the ECM isn't receiving a crank signal from the distributor, or the ECM itself is faulty.

Happy hunting....post what you find out.
Ok!! Sorry I took so long, but here are the results. After jumping the A and B terminals, I did get the code 12 three times. No other codes followed. After code 12 flashed 3 times it started to repeat. I'm kinda slow when it comes to anyting electrical, so could you explain the correct way to check the continuity. Thanks!! ****UPDATE**** After a tutorial from another member, I was able to check for continuity at all points between the injector harnesses and the ecm, and it was fine...no indication of in breaks anywhere. What do you think?....bad ECM?

Last edited by marlonb601; Jun 27, 2011 at 05:23 PM. Reason: New Info to add
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 01:07 PM
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Put one end off the lead on the injector side of the ground and the other of the ECM side while unplugged. Put the OHM meeter on the Simbold that looks like a Jet airplane LOL.
Here is a video.

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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by ch@0s
Put one end off the lead on the injector side of the ground and the other of the ECM side while unplugged. Put the OHM meeter on the Simbold that looks like a Jet airplane LOL.
Here is a video.

Thanks for the tutorial and the video!!! I feel a lil smarter now! LOL!!! Again. Thank you.
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