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I've got an 88 Convertible, plan on changing out the exhaust this weekend (catback).
I've got some new Rhino Ramps (12000lbs jobs) and would like to back the car up onto them to gain clearance for the job. Will this be a problem? Any issue with the front of the car hitting the ground?
I've got a low profile jack but afraid to jack it up in the center of the rear, specifically due to the exhaust in the way.
If you're changing the exhaust anyway, you can put a board on your floor jack, for a little more suport area, and just lift it with the exhaust pipes. It won't crush them, believe me they're plenty strong enough to lift the rear of a C4, I've done it. The worst that will happen is it might make little marks on the top of the pipes where it touches the iron case of the diff.
I saw a guy try to back onto some of those plastic type ramps on a slick grage floor. Half way up the ramps one of them shot forward and up under the car. Didn't hurt anything, just a little scarry. Had to use a floor jack to get the car back on the ramps. Be careful with your traction!
The Rhino Ramps are only 6.5" high. Your wheelbase is 96". So, when the rear tires are 6.5" off the ground, a point 48" in front of the axle will be 3.25" lower, and a point 32" in front of the axle will be about 2.15" lower than when on level ground.
I don't hear anyone on the forum reporting the front touching the ground when they are using 8" high or 10" high Race Ramps, so, you should be okay with the lower platform height of 6.5".
Originally Posted by Tony A.
I've got an 88 Convertible, plan on changing out the exhaust this weekend (catback).
I've got some new Rhino Ramps (12000lbs jobs) and would like to back the car up onto them to gain clearance for the job. Will this be a problem? Any issue with the front of the car hitting the ground?
I've got a low profile jack but afraid to jack it up in the center of the rear, specifically due to the exhaust in the way.
You could also put 2X10 or 2X12 flat behind the front tires so that when you back onto the ramps with the rear the fronts roll up on top of the 2X's giving you another inch and a half clearance in the front.
I saw a guy try to back onto some of those plastic type ramps on a slick grage floor. Half way up the ramps one of them shot forward and up under the car. Didn't hurt anything, just a little scarry. Had to use a floor jack to get the car back on the ramps. Be careful with your traction!
Easy way to prevent this....get some good rope and tie the back of the ramps to something sturdy....like an eye bolt into a stud in your garage...that way they can't shoot under the car.
My old man taught me another trick for getting ramps under the front wheels without the ramps sliding....tie long pieces of rope to the front of the ramps, and run the rope such that when your front wheels contact the ramps, the rear wheels are on top of the rope. No sliding.
If you don't want to fool around with workarounds for slippery ramps you can always get a set of Race Ramps. If the cost of new Race Ramps is more than you can handle, the next best thing is a set of used Race Ramps.
Race Ramps have been on the market for six years and I am sure there are a plenty of Race Ramps kicking around garages that are no longer used for a variety of reasons. Either the owner sold the low ground clearance car, or no longer does his own maintenance, etc.
Just today, I stumbled across a set of RR-56 one-piece ramps that have never been used. The box is a little tattered from dragging it around the garage but the ramps are fine. $160 delivered to anyone who is interested.
Originally Posted by Frizlefrak
Easy way to prevent this....get some good rope and tie the back of the ramps to something sturdy....like an eye bolt into a stud in your garage...that way they can't shoot under the car.
My old man taught me another trick for getting ramps under the front wheels without the ramps sliding....tie long pieces of rope to the front of the ramps, and run the rope such that when your front wheels contact the ramps, the rear wheels are on top of the rope. No sliding.
There are many ways to keep the ramps from sliding. Rubber footings, the rope method as FF described. I put mine on the edge of the garage floor, where the drive meets the garage. I have a little lip there that holds them in place.
Once, in the garage, I had my wife hold them in place with 2x4's. Or you can get 2x4's and set them against the wall of the garage and the ramps.
I saw a guy try to back onto some of those plastic type ramps on a slick grage floor. Half way up the ramps one of them shot forward and up under the car. Didn't hurt anything, just a little scarry. Had to use a floor jack to get the car back on the ramps. Be careful with your traction!
That happened to me with Rhino ramps. And this was on a brush finish
driveway, not a slick garage floor. If anybody want's those ramps, come
and get them.
Last edited by Chuck Tribolet; Jun 24, 2011 at 02:27 PM.
The RR-56 ramps were sold to a CF member. But there are plenty of new ones available.
Originally Posted by Fred@ReverseLogic
Just today, I stumbled across a set of RR-56 one-piece ramps that have never been used. The box is a little tattered from dragging it around the garage but the ramps are fine. $160 delivered to anyone who is interested.
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