Cargo Lights not working
#1
Cargo Lights not working
The cargo lights in my 95 no longer work AND I have a power drain somewhere. Is it possible that the same problem is causing both issues? The cargo light bulbs test good as does the wiring from the lamps to the connector behind the seats. The door & under dash courtesy lights do work.
I've got the passenger side dash disassembled trying to locate the diode module so I can test it per the SM. Anyone have any idea what his module looks like?
I've got the passenger side dash disassembled trying to locate the diode module so I can test it per the SM. Anyone have any idea what his module looks like?
Last edited by harster; 06-26-2011 at 11:38 AM.
#2
Ok, I located the problem. The female terminal for the white cargo light, on harness connector (C209) was broken and the wire was hanging free. Removed the old terminal and replaced it with a new one. Both cargo lights are once again working.
Still not certain where the Diode Module is. Certainly isn't where the service manual indicates it is on page 8A-201-20 figure 33.
Still not certain where the Diode Module is. Certainly isn't where the service manual indicates it is on page 8A-201-20 figure 33.
#3
#4
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
30 Posts
I was under the impression all Coupes had a diode
module. Only convertibles didn't have one.
In the schematics for the 95.
One says cargo lamps for LT5 and the other schematic
is labeled cargo lamps for LT1. (I think it should be for
convertible).
Harster, when you open only your hatch (assuming you have
a LT!) do only the cargo lamps come on?
If they do you have a diode module located under
the middle trim panel where the hatch release solenoid
is. The diodes are on a small circuit board inserted into
a small black plastic container.
module. Only convertibles didn't have one.
In the schematics for the 95.
One says cargo lamps for LT5 and the other schematic
is labeled cargo lamps for LT1. (I think it should be for
convertible).
Harster, when you open only your hatch (assuming you have
a LT!) do only the cargo lamps come on?
If they do you have a diode module located under
the middle trim panel where the hatch release solenoid
is. The diodes are on a small circuit board inserted into
a small black plastic container.
Last edited by Hooked on Vettes; 06-26-2011 at 06:27 PM.
#5
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
30 Posts
Ken4
Here are the two schematics for the cargo lamps for a 95.
Notice the descriptions on the top left of the page.
1st schematic says LT5
2nd schematic says LT1
There is no cargo lamp schematic for a convertible
which is why I think the schematic is mislabeled.
3rd schematic shows where the diode module is located.
Here are the two schematics for the cargo lamps for a 95.
Notice the descriptions on the top left of the page.
1st schematic says LT5
2nd schematic says LT1
There is no cargo lamp schematic for a convertible
which is why I think the schematic is mislabeled.
3rd schematic shows where the diode module is located.
#6
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
30 Posts
If this is a 95 coupe and you have a diode module I believe the interior lights
should operate this way.
If both doors are closed and you pop the hatch using a key fob, only the
cargo lights should come on.
If all lights come on, the diode I have circled in red in the schematic
is shorted. The diode I have circled in turquoise is a spare diode and
is not used.
So the spare diode could be used to replace a bad one.
If you open the door all lights will come on. Pop the hatch and close the
doors. The foot well and door lamps should time out. The cargo lights
should remain on. Also the hatch ajar lamp should light if you have one.
should operate this way.
If both doors are closed and you pop the hatch using a key fob, only the
cargo lights should come on.
If all lights come on, the diode I have circled in red in the schematic
is shorted. The diode I have circled in turquoise is a spare diode and
is not used.
So the spare diode could be used to replace a bad one.
If you open the door all lights will come on. Pop the hatch and close the
doors. The foot well and door lamps should time out. The cargo lights
should remain on. Also the hatch ajar lamp should light if you have one.
#7
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
30 Posts
is either bad or disconnected or the third diode not circled in the
schematic is open. (You can purchase a 1N4005 diode from Radio
Shack for $1.20).
After the foot well and door lamps timed out with the hatch
still open, the cargo lamps should have remained on.
When functioning properly, you should be able to push down on the hatch ajar switch and the cargo lamps should go off. Release the hatch ajar switch and the cargo lamps should come on.
Another test you can try since your key fob doesn't work
is to sit in the car, close the doors and wait for the lights to time out.
Use the hatch release button in the center console to open the
rear hatch. Only the cargo lamps should come on.
#8
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 1999
Location: Baltimore, MD USA
Posts: 2,240
Likes: 0
Received 34 Likes
on
30 Posts
There's only two schematics in the service manual.
The schematic with the diode module has the hatch ajar switch
which is for a coupe (labeled LT5).
The schematic labeled Lt1 which I believe is for a Vert. and does not
have a hatch ajar switch.
My conclusion is the diode circled in red is bad.
You can purchase a 1N4005 diode at Radio Shack for $1.50.
Comes in a pack of 3. GM lists the diode part number as
12112421. I don't see a part number for the complete module
which is 3 diodes soldered to a circuit board.
If you remove the three black plastic trim panels to expose the
hatch ajar switch, follow the black/red wire from the hatch
ajar switch which goes to a splice. One end of that splice
will go to the diode module which is contained in a small
black plastic cylinder.
The schematic with the diode module has the hatch ajar switch
which is for a coupe (labeled LT5).
The schematic labeled Lt1 which I believe is for a Vert. and does not
have a hatch ajar switch.
My conclusion is the diode circled in red is bad.
You can purchase a 1N4005 diode at Radio Shack for $1.50.
Comes in a pack of 3. GM lists the diode part number as
12112421. I don't see a part number for the complete module
which is 3 diodes soldered to a circuit board.
If you remove the three black plastic trim panels to expose the
hatch ajar switch, follow the black/red wire from the hatch
ajar switch which goes to a splice. One end of that splice
will go to the diode module which is contained in a small
black plastic cylinder.
#9
Race Director
LT1 is the stock '92 through '96 engine.
LT4 is the high performance '96 engine.