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I'm painting a '57 Chevy 2 door wagon for a customer. I guess I under estimated the dry time of this urethane I'm spraying. With the PPG I usually shoot, the over spray is dry and can be wiped off. Not so much with Eastwood brand paint. (customer just wants it yellow, not a show car)
Anyway, I guess the 'Vette was too close to '57 when I shot the primer. I've got some buffing to do in the near future.
Just wash it. If it has a good wax on it like Rejex, it probably will just wash off. If not try some claybar on it, that really gets a lot of junk off without hurting or scuffing your paint.
Here it is. It looks worse than it is. There's a lot of sanding dust on there too.
I just used a little detailing wax and it was enough to get the over spray off. A good wash and wax and I should be back in business. ...I hope she's not too mad at me.
Even better than that, I have two in the garage right now. See the one balled up in front of the car in the first picture? Yeah, I was just being careless. No other excuse.
That welding setup is awefully close to the quarter panel of the Vette.
Now we need pics of the 57 you painted.
The torches are even closer to my '68 Triumph Bonneville. Not much room in the garage.
As far as the '57 goes, I'm kinda mad about it. The owner wanted to cheap out on the paint. So he ended up with a cheap paint job. I put about 100 hours in to the body work making it nice and when I laid down the $200 paint materials, I wrecked the whole paint job. If you want to destroy a paint job, use paint from a popular restoration company with the same name as a Hollywood actor. The farm and implement paint I used from Tractor Supply had a MUCH nicer finish than this base/clear system.
The '57 when I got it...
With the body work and primer done... (you can see in the color photo I aligned all the body panels)
...and in color. (I have no idea if the owner is color blind. That's the number one asked question)
I laid a LOT of clear on, so I'm going back in a month to see if I can save it with a color sand and buff.
Last edited by earthquake68; Aug 15, 2011 at 11:21 PM.
No, just plain old yellow. Where the stainless insert goes in the quarter for the Bel Aires, he has a carbon fiber one that goes in there. He also has carbon fiber interior window trim pieces. If I can save the paint job with a vigorous sanding and buffing, it may look half decent.
The colour looks like something you would find in a diaper.
Originally Posted by earthquake68
No, just plain old yellow. Where the stainless insert goes in the quarter for the Bel Aires, he has a carbon fiber one that goes in there. He also has carbon fiber interior window trim pieces. If I can save the paint job with a vigorous sanding and buffing, it may look half decent.
The overall quality of the labor is great, just a poor choice of quality paint and color. I don't understand why he would want you to go to all that trouble to make the body nice and then cheap out on the paint. Odd.
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Originally Posted by Frizlefrak
The overall quality of the labor is great, just a poor choice of quality paint and color. I don't understand why he would want you to go to all that trouble to make the body nice and then cheap out on the paint. Odd.
Good paint isn't cheap, and cheap paint isn't good.
I've tried to explain that to soooo many people. They just don't get it until they see it for themselves. I pointed to my 'Vette and Nova and said, "Same prep work, same paint gun, same air compressor, MUCH better paint!"
Everyone wants a paint job for $400 and then fall over backwards when I tell them that just a gallon of pigment can be that much. Then you have to buy primer, reducer, hardener, etc. Plan on spending $800-$1,000 on materials.
Well, they found this paint at a third the cost, so they'll use this. ...and you have a job that's a third the quality.
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