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I installed mine with the motor out, but given the length of the ATI hub, I'm pretty sure you'd at least have to raise the motor enough to get it on past the cross member.
A couple things to note on the install:
1)On mine, it came with a spacer to use on pre-'96 motors since they don't have a CPS reluctor wheel. Just double-check your instructions on that one since it's an easy thing to miss
2) the press-fit on mine was extremely tight (I've seen others post the same thing). I had to hone out the ATI hub to get it to press on correctly. Broke an install tool in the process!
3) You'll need a different damper bolt/washer. the ATI hub uses a standard SBC washer which is much larger than the normal LT1 washer
4) if you want, you can install a crankshaft key since the ATI hub is keyed unlike the stock one.
I have one and I have yet to see anyone install or remove it with the engine in the car.
Regarding the fit, in the ATI instructions they state that it requires a final hone for fitting and they specify the clearance.
Mine was done with the motor in the car.......I didn't actually do it, but as I recall the radiator was removed.......not sure about if they raised the motor a bit or not..
From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
The lengthy ATI hub design makes that pretty much impossible unless you can jack the motor high enough to totally clear the crossmember with the diameter of the balancer. I don't think that's possible with the tranny installed before hitting the tunnel.I guess you could drop the c-beam to let the trans drop in the back more to get that clearance,but it sure sounds like a lot of extra work. FYI, after final install,the ATI hub face bolts are only about 1/4" from the crossmember face. It's a pretty tight clearance.
Rick
After I put my D44 in my automatic car, the ATI bolts hit the crossmember when I hit the brakes. I noticed this at the end of the track this summer and just about had a heart attack. Anybody else have this issue? I was going to replace the 3 round bolts with flatter ones, but I'm having an unpleasant time trying to remove them after 2 years. If I loosen the motor mounts and C-Beam up and pry everything rearwards and tighten, I have to jam the brakes on harder for them to rub. Not sure how to solve this. I really don't want to take the motor out. I could notch the crossmember and re-weld it.
1995 Coupe. Thoughts?
check the C beam for elongated mounting bolt holes probably allowing fore and aft movement.
replace the stock hydraulic fluid filled motor mounts with solid rubber mounts.
I'll change the C-Beam when it gets above arctic temperatures, since that is the easiest. I have a redrilled automatic in there I had to use. I have since procured the proper short manual piece.
So, since the OP, has anyone successfully installed an ATI damper with the motor in the car? Would y'all say removing the steering rack might help? Or is it all cross member that's the problem?
Also, I got mine in the mail recently and measured the inner diameter with some T-gages and a digital caliper. The ATI hub I got was almost 0.0005 bigger than the stock hub. Not a lot, but I know it can make a difference on an interference fit. Since it's bigger, I'm thinking I won't have any issues pressing it on with antiseize and heating it up in the oven a bit. John Grow at ATI says these can safely be heated up to 250*.
What's your experience with this? Thanks for any help and advice.