When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
When I buy my 86 vette. the car came with a home made push botton. that start the car. you can see at the picture, the cable hanging from the stering columm
the way it work is as like this.
you insert the key and turn to the on position. all the electrical of the car work now.
but the car wont crank. here is where the push button comes in.
if I push the button at this time. the the engine start,
Iam asuming that the key cylinder is bad. and that is why, the last owner instal that push botton cable.
so before I get a new key ignition cylinder. how do I know for sure. that the old one is bad.
Why don't you do a real push start ignition and eliminate the key altogether, like I did? There are threads that describe the procedure. I can help you through it, if you like. Here's mine.[IMG][/IMG]
Before buying the lock cylinder, you should drop the column and check the adjustment on the actual ignition switch. This will be a good chance to clean up the extra wires as well. There is a rod between the cylinder and actual switch. Switch has elongated holes for adjustment. Or the switch could be bad. Cylinder is only for mechanical movement of rod with exception of vats.
after thinking about this for a moment. I dont see the benefit of doing a push start buttom.
a new key cylinder cost me $38.00 in a store near here.
Agent 86. (member of this forum) send me detail istructions to install this part.
so I think I go with the original setup
I understand.. It is a pain in the butt to wire everything up and find a good place to put the toggle switches, not to mention finding a way to keep someone from jumping in and starting it right up (i have a few ways to keep my security), but I just want my vette to be different than most. I like those "hard" custom jobs that most people would shy away from. It gives me something to do. Can't wait to do the paint job.
I'm not worried about reselling it someday or keeping it stock. I plan on keeping it forever; don't even want a c5 or c6.... The only car I would give up my vette for would be a Ford GT. (ok..maybe a c5 Zo6)
Good Luck getting it fixed.
Before buying the lock cylinder, you should drop the column and check the adjustment on the actual ignition switch. This will be a good chance to clean up the extra wires as well. There is a rod between the cylinder and actual switch. Switch has elongated holes for adjustment. Or the switch could be bad. Cylinder is only for mechanical movement of rod with exception of vats.
actual ignition switch????? can you or eny one give me more details about this...
The lock cylinder that you put the key in is not the ignition switch. The lock cylinder pushes a rod that actuates the ignition switch that is located on top of the steering column under the dash. If I recall correctly, then the switch can be adjusted if the rod from the cylinder doesn't push far enough to engage the starter.
I would start by removing the additional wiring and start button. Repair the factory harness if it was cut. Then, see if the car starts like it should. If not, drop the column enough to access the switch. Try sliding the switch towards the steering wheel a little with the adjustment. If nothing, replace the switch. That should fix it unless it is a vats issue. I think that vats would disable fuel as well though. Not sure about that. Does the security light do anything with the ignition on?
dont know about security light since my dash is totally toust.
I will take this weekend and check the ignition swish like you say. se what I can find out
The lock cylinder that you put the key in is not the ignition switch. The lock cylinder pushes a rod that actuates the ignition switch that is located on top of the steering column under the dash. If I recall correctly, then the switch can be adjusted if the rod from the cylinder doesn't push far enough to engage the starter.
I would start by removing the additional wiring and start button. Repair the factory harness if it was cut. Then, see if the car starts like it should. If not, drop the column enough to access the switch. Try sliding the switch towards the steering wheel a little with the adjustment. If nothing, replace the switch. That should fix it unless it is a vats issue. I think that vats would disable fuel as well though. Not sure about that. Does the security light do anything with the ignition on?
I was looking at the diagram . and I see where the ignition swish is.
I really have to check that before go and buy stuff.
thank you you open my eyes. can see more clearly now
After looking at the above photo again, it appears that the VATS system is removed. I don't see the box. It should be mounted to the metal bracket on the passenger side of the dash. I wonder if this has something to do with the push button. You should research the VATS system - Vehicle Anti Theft System. Definitely something to look into.
After looking at the above photo again, it appears that the VATS system is removed. I don't see the box. It should be mounted to the metal bracket on the passenger side of the dash. I wonder if this has something to do with the push button. You should research the VATS system - Vehicle Anti Theft System. Definitely something to look into.
now that you mention that. I was wondering my self. what was that metal bracket.
when I remove the passenger dash cover was not there.
is this have something to do with the ignition cable. we are talking about????
Follow the wires from the start button. If they go to the harness near the ignition switch, then only that was likely bypassed. There should be a security light in the center of the dash. It would indicate a VATS issue if it illuminates when you try to start with the key.