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valve lash

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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 11:29 AM
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Default valve lash

1986 406,i need a chart or ? to show witch valves to set at what time at the rotation with solid lifters. not an lt engine, just older chevy block
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 07:28 PM
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No chart needed. Set #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, adjust #1 intake and exhaust. Rotate the engine exactly 90 degrees, go to the next cylinder in the firing order. Repeat (2 rotations) until you've done all 8 lungs.
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Old Nov 29, 2011 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Frizlefrak
No chart needed. Set #1 at TDC on the compression stroke, adjust #1 intake and exhaust. Rotate the engine exactly 90 degrees, go to the next cylinder in the firing order. Repeat (2 rotations) until you've done all 8 lungs.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Casshern
thanks, i just thought there might be more valves that i could set at each rotation
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 19774x4
thanks, i just thought there might be more valves that i could set at each rotation
There is, either the FSM or the Helms manual tells you how to set all 16 with a single rotation. I have used it but prefer Fracks method. Before I install a damper I mark 0-90-180-270 with paint, use those to insure valves are closed and lifters are on the base circle.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Muffin
There is, either the FSM or the Helms manual tells you how to set all 16 with a single rotation. I have used it but prefer Fracks method. Before I install a damper I mark 0-90-180-270 with paint, use those to insure valves are closed and lifters are on the base circle.
Manual will spell it out....I've just come to rely on doing them one at a time. Either way works fine.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Muffin
There is, either the FSM or the Helms manual tells you how to set all 16 with a single rotation. I have used it but prefer Fracks method. Before I install a damper I mark 0-90-180-270 with paint, use those to insure valves are closed and lifters are on the base circle.
Here is the way the Factory Service Manual says to do it . This is the method I used and have had no problems.The only thing I do differently is instead of spinning the pushrod, I move it up and down till all play is gone, this is a much more accurate method of getting to zero lash.....WW

Bring the engine to TDC on #1 cylinder. Rotor pointing to #1 spark plug wire on the dist. cap and the timing mark on the damper lined up with the zero on the timing tab.
You can now adjust the rockers on:
# 1,3,4,8 exhaust valve and #1,2,5,7 intake valve.
When finished with those turn the engine one revolution on the damper so the timing mark again lines up with the the zero on the timing tab.
You can now adjust the rockers on
#2,5,6,7 exhaust valves and #3,4,6,8 intake valves.

Last edited by WW7; Dec 1, 2011 at 06:17 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by WW7
Here is the way the Factory Service Manual says to do it . This is the method I used and have had no problems.The only thing I do differently is instead of spinning the pushrod, I move it up and down till all play is gone, this is a much more accurate method of getting to zero lash.....WW

Bring the engine to TDC on #1 cylinder. Rotor pointing to #1 spark plug wire on the dist. cap and the timing mark on the damper lined up with the zero on the timing tab.
You can now adjust the rockers on:
# 1,3,4,8 exhaust valve and #1,2,5,7 intake valve.
When finished with those turn the engine one revolution on the damper so the timing mark again lines up with the the zero on the timing tab.
You can now adjust the rockers on
#2,5,6,7 exhaust valves and #3,4,6,8 intake valves.
..That is the method I have used for longer than I care to say..
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 07:23 PM
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If its a larger aftermarket solid cam do them one at a time
Set your cold lash, get it good and warm then check the hot lash setting.

Make sure you lash it as the cam card suggests, different cams will want different lash.

Last edited by cv67; Dec 1, 2011 at 07:28 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 09:03 PM
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You can also set them while running with a feeler gauge, this is the way I use to set my small block years ago.This is probably the quickest , but also the messiest....WW

Last edited by WW7; Dec 2, 2011 at 05:01 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 09:25 PM
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Boy you must have quick hands there
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Boy you must have quick hands there
Yeah , I may have worded that wrong......Never run with a feeler gauge , you could fall and hurt yourself........WW

Last edited by WW7; Dec 1, 2011 at 09:41 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2011 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Boy you must have quick hands there
Teamster Power.

Originally Posted by WW7
Never run with a feeler gauge , you could fall and hurt yourself........WW
No doubt.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by WW7
You can also set them while running with a feeler gauge, this is the way I use to set my small block with solids years ago.This is probably the quickest , but also the messiest....WW
Capture an old valve cover, cut out the top to expose the rocker polylocks. Keeps hot oil in while adjusting.
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Old Dec 2, 2011 | 08:47 AM
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He has solid lifters you cant adjust while running.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
He has solid lifters you cant adjust while running.
Well, actually some DO use the feeler gauge method while running. I bought little deflector clips to keep the oil from spurting out over the fenders (and not to mention headers!) and cut the upper portion of a valve cover off, leaving just enough to contain the oil so it wouldn't run over the lip of the head and run down the outside.

But, in the end, I never felt warm and fuzzy about doing it that way - besides still being so messy. So, I reverted to the cold then hot method, using Frizzle's method (wasn't aware of the one rotation method at that time).

P.
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 11:14 AM
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Ill stick with not possible on a solid. No way


How is one going to feel the "slight drag" when the cam is on the heel with the valvespring compressing x times/second, the feeler gauge getting the snot pounded out of it etc? Just cant happen
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Old Dec 3, 2011 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Ill stick with not possible on a solid. No way


How is one going to feel the "slight drag" when the cam is on the heel with the valvespring compressing x times/second, the feeler gauge getting the snot pounded out of it etc? Just cant happen

Solids are adjusted best non-running. I always needed that special drag to keep them all as uniform as possible. I only tried hydraulics running once with the clippies and a hogged out valve cover, but the noise and mess were just too much.... I prefer the 2-rotation method, keeps my mind clear.
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Old Dec 4, 2011 | 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by SQUIRMIN VERMIN 84

Solids are adjusted best non-running. I always needed that special drag to keep them all as uniform as possible. I only tried hydraulics running once with the clippies and a hogged out valve cover, but the noise and mess were just too much.... I prefer the 2-rotation method, keeps my mind clear.
thanks every one,i.l try the cold hot first
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