Well, to add another page to the book. I decided to put on a set of Comp adjustable hardened pushrod guide plates after I noticed the roller rockers could be a little better aligned.

I took off the #1 exhaust rocker and found this


This is the worst one but 8 of them (some intake some exhaust) are similar. A couple have galling/spalling. Eight of them look perfect. The roller tips look perfect and they are NSA so the shoulders are not touching. Did some research and it could possibly be poor quality hardened tips (cheap *** Procomp valves). Not sure but I guess I will be pulling heads this afternoon after work. Planning to buy quality valves and changing them out.

Maybe I should just buy some AFR's and be done with it. Anybody have some for sale?

 

Sorry - realized that I posted this in General.
Can it be moved to Tech?
Thank you.

 

Might be possible to have the stems squared up (my Souix grinder has this feature) & install lash caps. If that will work suggest expoxy & screen over the oil returns in the heads. Might keep debris out of the crankcase if a rocker fails.

 

Real common to do

Was the pushrod length correct?

 

Called the parts supplier and spoke to the cylinder head builder. He first suggested detonation. I informed him that I have been datalogging this since I put it together and there has only been random knock counts (I usually only show some upon engaging the starter).

I emailed him the picture and he called back and stated that he doesn't think it is detonation - it looked more like coil bind but he set the heads up (for roller cam at .650 max) and my cam is relatively small (also purchased it from him). They offered me head gaskets and a set of valves at cost (Manley's) as a replacement due to the warranty period being over. He asked for pictures of the pistons if I would provide them.

I started the tear down this afternoon and got to the head stud removal part. I'll leave that for tomorrow. I did notice that all of the exhaust valve stems have damage and two of the intakes. I surely hope it was not detonation. Detonation broke most of the rings and a couple of the ring lands which initiated the rebuild (purchased it this way).

Still considering going the single plane route and upping the cam to bring this all together. Might as well go all the way. And since the AC stuff has been removed I might as well remove the firewall box - it will make head removal/installation easier.

I know I shouldn't do this but - anybody have any cam recommendations for single plane with 210 heads (385 cid)? I contacted TPIS about the ZZX cam. They stated that it would be too much with my 10.5:1 compression (guess that rules out the expensive option).

Damn. All this started because of lean WBO2 readings on the passenger side and an IR temp gun........

 

Removed the heads this morning. The combustion chambers and piston tops look great. Head gasket was fine.

Time to disassemble the valves and see what's up.

All but 4 of the valve tips have damage. Maybe I should have paid more attention to pushrod length. I definitely will this time. I will say that the four that are good have the wear pattern right in the middle.

I still think it was bad valves.....

 

Disassembled the heads today. No other damage noted - everything clean and normal.
Hmmm....

 

What about solid roller? I run the TPIS 700/701 solid roller in my 427 and I had it in my 383. Ran 11.5:1 compression in 383 and 10.5:1 compression in 427.

 

Been looking into the solid roller set up.
Possibility - but weighing the cost benefits and trying not to turn this into another major overhaul. Yeah right.

How she sits as of now:

 

Bought some more new tools ---- picked up a dial indicator and stand to check valve to guide fit.

Here I go again.....
Exhaust .011
Intake .005

From what I know this is absolutely terrible.
ProComp heads do actually appear to be absolute crap. These were purchased and installed on the 385 last March (03/11). They were removed a week ago (01/12). No way I have more than 1000 miles on them (probably closer to 750). Most of those were data logged so I know nothing was crazy on the timing or fueling side.
Going to bring them to the local machine shop to see what it is going to cost to fix and weigh this option against buying another reputable set.
Live and learn.....
There goes the paint job in the spring.

 

Spoke with the owner of the parts supplier on the phone today (on a Sunday). He called me after I sent him an email. They are going to warranty the heads and give me a new set. Very nice guy and spoke at length about several issues and he is talking me out of purchasing the single plane set up from him. I am still going to upgrade the cam. Need to see about having some metal added to the HSR to help with sealing to the 1206 head port.

Removed the AC/heater box today. No issues getting to #8 spark plug now.

 

Not to steal your thread but..
Now if GM had the heater core bolted to a plate that unbolted from there it sure would be simple to change it.

The wear on the tips are just poor heat treat. If you had put lash caps on to begin with it would not have happened. You need a dial bore gage to check the valve stem clearance though yours are certainly worn. You need to pay attention to valve guide material in an endurance engine. Cast iron silicon bronze and phosphor bronze are all different animals.
Dave

 

UPDATE

Got new heads from the dealer - no cost warranty swap. Installed adjustable pushrod guide plates.
Decided to upgraded the cam to Comp Cams 280XFI.
In the process dropped the oil pan and checked the bottom end - all good.

All together and running again with a lot of help from my 8 year old (he was awesome and pushed every day to go out and work).

Now to restart tuning again and hopefully get ready for that paint job.

Still considering a swap to a single plane intake setup.....

 

Just asking; you aren't using guideplates with self aligning rockers are you?

 

Thanks for the concern, but nope. They are NSA stainless rollers.