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Polished Wheels - To Clear Coat or Not?

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Old 01-23-2012, 10:12 PM
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lhinaz71
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Default Polished Wheels - To Clear Coat or Not?

I've been polishing my aluminum wheels. I've read about most factory aluminum wheels having a clear coat on them. I've also read that clear coat doesn't stick well to polished wheels, and will flake off over time.

Just don't want to mess up all my hard work with a clear coat if its just going to yellow or flake off. On the other hand, not sure how difficult it will be to keep the polished wheels looking nice without a clear coat either.

Looking for experience here, either way.
Old 01-23-2012, 10:20 PM
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RollaMo-LT4
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Most (if not all) factory aluminum wheels are clear coated.
Most aftermarket polished aluminum wheels are not.

In other words, you can't "polish" a clear coated wheel without destroying the clear coat finish.

The factory clear coat will last for many years, but can eventually peel if not taken care of.

On the other hand, polished wheel require a lot more work to maintain that "polished look".
Uncoated aluminum will begin to oxidize as soon as it's exposed to the atmosphere.
So, you will be polishing them frequently.
They do make products that are supposed to help "seal" the aluminum after you polish them.
Old 01-23-2012, 10:42 PM
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lhinaz71
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Thanks.

Just to clarify, the original clear coat has been removed.
Old 01-23-2012, 11:00 PM
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r15
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I have polished aluminum without clear coat, and I use a wheel sealant after polishing up the wheels.
I use the Poor Boys sealant and it keeps the luster of polishing a lot longer than before I started using it.
Takes a bit more time to seal them up, but for me it lasted the whole driving season without having to polish them up again.
Old 01-23-2012, 11:14 PM
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Frizlefrak
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I polished them on my old 84 and never re-cleared them. About twice a year I'd shine them up with Mothers and a rag. See profile for pics.
Old 01-24-2012, 08:05 AM
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WW7
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I believe "Mothers" even makes a polishing kit that includes a polishing pad you can put in a drill. This will take much less time then doing them by hand...WW
Old 01-24-2012, 08:57 AM
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bangbgC6
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Originally Posted by lhinaz71
Thanks.

Just to clarify, the original clear coat has been removed.
How did you remove it? Did you use a chemical stripper? I have to remove what is left of the original clearcoat on mine before I polish.
Old 01-24-2012, 09:25 AM
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CROOZ1N
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My sawblades are pitted and some areas are flaking off as well. I've looked at having them re done @125.00 /wheel
So how did you remove and what clear would work the best. I know Gordon had stripped a wheel he was using as an air hose reel with some aircraft stripper and re cleared it. But the clear he used yellowed in a couple of years.
Better product to use?
Old 01-24-2012, 11:39 AM
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lhinaz71
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Originally Posted by WW7
I believe "Mothers" even makes a polishing kit that includes a polishing pad you can put in a drill. This will take much less time then doing them by hand...WW
Yes, been using a pad on my drill. Can't imagine doing it by hand. I don't have that kind of patience. :-)
Old 01-24-2012, 11:47 AM
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lhinaz71
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Originally Posted by bangbgC6
How did you remove it? Did you use a chemical stripper? I have to remove what is left of the original clearcoat on mine before I polish.
The previous owner had removed it already. Aircraft remover should remove it. They had painted the inserts red. I've been using aircraft remover to remove the color.
Old 01-24-2012, 01:25 PM
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Alan777
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I agree, aircraft brand paint stripper is the way to go. Just make sure you wear gloves and a mask, that stuff is nasty to work with
Old 01-24-2012, 02:36 PM
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No clearcoat, polish it and leave it alone.

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