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So I tried the high-beam low-beam thing this morning, but it had no effect.
You called this the dimmer switch, which made me think of the dimmer switch for the interior lights. When returned home, I turned off the engine and turned the dimmer switch all the way on, then turned the headlight switch to the fog lamp position.
The doors stayed closed! Now they are working properly no matter what position the dimmer switch is in. (I'm sure this will not last.)
But what does it mean? I assume this switch is part of the whole headlight switch that was just replaced.
The fog lamp switch swaps the high beams for fog lights on my 92. Do the fog lamps come on with the switch in the parking light position? Maybe the wires are crossed at the relay.
I disconnected the headlight module and they worked right for 2 cycles and back to the same thing. I know the pass side runs after its closed/open. I wonder if its related.
Are there any relays on the 91 or is it all the headlight module?
You say the passsenger side continues to run after the light is closed or after it opens. That is generally the 3 bushings that live in the motors. They are cheap and easy to replace. I replaced the bushings in my 1992 in one afternooon. Search the forum for great instructions.
The fog lamp switch swaps the high beams for fog lights on my 92. Do the fog lamps come on with the switch in the parking light position? Maybe the wires are crossed at the relay.
No. And I've tried every combination/position of headlight switch, high beams, fog lamps, interior dimmer switch. No consistent behavior.
Made sure both grounds were good, used dielectric grease on all terminals.
Passenger motor would run on after it should have stopped. I pulled the assembly and replaced the three bushing with the ones from Autozone Help section because the ones that I bought from ZIP were thrown out when my parents cleaned the basement back where I grew up...furious...
Reinstalled, and the headlights popping while on parking light setting stopped. I do not know how the bushings can be related to this problem but they were.
The drivers side was a horror show. THe motor was a reman, and the bushings were fine even though I replaced them anyways. The housing/bracket for the headlight was missing the nut which holds the linkage to the assembly, and it was sloppy. ANother bolt was missing which also holds the frame to the assembly.
Two of the three screws holding the motor to the frame were beat to hell...Had to chase the threads in the motor and loctited them. Hope they hold up.
After all was reinstalled, the headlights work like new. I took the time to mark the 4 nuts holding the assembly to the hood, so reinstall was really easy.
Hope this fixes your problem too. The bushings are somehow related to the headlights popping while on the parking light position.
Hope this fixes your problem too. The bushings are somehow related to the headlights popping while on the parking light position.
Thanks,
Mike
Well, my right headlight motor does run a few seconds too long and needs the bushings. I didn't think that could have anything to do with the door opening problem. Maybe I'll try what you did when the weather warms up a bit.