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I've read alot about lowering a C4 (specifically a later model year) and I keep reading that you have to have front of the car up sky high to lower the front. If this is the case, if I have access to a lift would that make things any better? How rough is it with a lot of clearance?
Also how much ground clearance do you guys that have lowered your vette have? I had a lowered mustang before I had my Vette and I'd scrape every morning leaving my neighborhood on a speed bump.
I did it using a standard floor jack and jackstands without any issue. I had the front end maybe 15-18" off the floor, if that.
The biggest b!tch of it for me (on my 85) was accessing the bolts/nuts that hold the spring brackets on to the subframe. One nut was damn near impossible to get to because it was on top of the subframe, behind a chunk of metal, with the engine about, oh, 1 inch away.
It's also a little hard to re-seat the spring ends into the LCA's, I used a second floor jack for that purpose.
I really wish these cars had a standard set of coilover springs, it would make modifying the suspension so much easier.
I have about 3-4" of ground clearance in most areas. The lowest part that scrapes are my header flanges and exhaust presilencer/muffler body.
I keep reading that you have to have front of the car up sky high to lower the front. If this is the case, if I have access to a lift would that make things any better?
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You need the frame so high to get enough room to pull the spring out past the bottom A arm
Usually need a bar levering the arm down against the tension of the bushes while you pull spring out
( 2nd person helps ) http://webpages.charter.net/khasting.../lowering.html
Problem is ;
on a lift is you need some way ( a long length pipe on a jack? ) to raise the bottom arm against the spring in order to get the ball joint back into the spindle .
You could always you fit the spring on the lift then lower car to ground to fit the arm
Bottoming out will become a regular issue. I raised mine back up because of it. Got tired of my X brace bottoming out. Think before you act. Just sayin.
Its already low enough and if your lowered mustang scraping bothered you Id suggest you would have the same problem with a lowered vett. All things being equal however this is your car do as you wish. GC
I lowered mine using the extended bolts for the rear. For the front I removed just the control arm pads. I DID NOT use the aftermarket lowering wedges in the front.
I forget exactly how much drop I achieved (maybe 1/2"-5/8"?) but it's enough to get a good stance and I don't ever bottom out.
I lowered mine using the extended bolts for the rear. For the front I removed just the control arm pads. I DID NOT use the aftermarket lowering wedges in the front.
I forget exactly how much drop I achieved (maybe 1/2"-5/8"?) but it's enough to get a good stance and I don't ever bottom out.
Removing the shims lowers an additional 7/16"
I removed everything, installed HD monospring with HD Bilsteins.
I lowered mine using the extended bolts for the rear. For the front I removed just the control arm pads. I DID NOT use the aftermarket lowering wedges in the front.
I forget exactly how much drop I achieved (maybe 1/2"-5/8"?) but it's enough to get a good stance and I don't ever bottom out.
Are these the pads that are under the ends of the spring where it rests in the A-arm? Does this cause any damage or wear to the spring?
Are these the pads that are under the ends of the spring where it rests in the A-arm? Does this cause any damage or wear to the spring?
Yes, those are the pads. I wondered the same thing before I pulled the trigger on mine so after doing some research here on CF, I seem to remember some members saying they had removed the shims with no issue and others saying that the spring would eventually eat into the A-arm. I decided to go for it and I've had no issue so far.
If anything, I would inspect the tips of your front spring for cracks before removing the shims (which should probably be checked before this project anyway). In a worst case scenario (auto Xing every weekend?), I think the spring would eventually eat into the A-arm and your alignment would be affected. The other scenario is the friction from the A-arm damaging the spring and you'd definitely know when that happened. Again, I've been DDing my 93 without the shims for 2 years now and I've have no issue at all.
Yes, those are the pads. I wondered the same thing before I pulled the trigger on mine so after doing some research here on CF, I seem to remember some members saying they had removed the shims with no issue and others saying that the spring would eventually eat into the A-arm. I decided to go for it and I've had no issue so far.
If anything, I would inspect the tips of your front spring for cracks before removing the shims (which should probably be checked before this project anyway). In a worst case scenario (auto Xing every weekend?), I think the spring would eventually eat into the A-arm and your alignment would be affected. The other scenario is the friction from the A-arm damaging the spring and you'd definitely know when that happened. Again, I've been DDing my 93 without the shims for 2 years now and I've have no issue at all.
Good luck with the project!
I dropped my 95 about 7 years ago and have NO ISSUES....
( Removed the shims, installed wedges and cut the pad ends)