95 Console removal question

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Feb 17, 2012 | 03:08 AM

Blue95C4

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Instructor

Joined: Oct 2010

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95 Console removal question

Hey Guys,

I need to remove the console in preparation for a ZF clutch swap.

I did a search and came up empty.

I would appreciate anything to make this as painless as possible.

Thanks in advance !!

Don

Feb 17, 2012 | 05:01 AM

Paul Workman

Le Mans Master

Joined: Oct 2004

Posts: 6,314

Likes: 508

From: South-central Missouri

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue95C4

Two screws under the armrest toward the front. One in the cup holder. There might be another one or two (memory is a terrible thing to loose), but you won't have any trouble finding them.

You'll have to remove the shift ****, which can amount to a little trickery...

Pry off the shift pattern button that is simply pressed onto the top of the ****.
If you have a reverse lock-out, you'll need a 2mm alan to losen the set screw
Once there is a soft metal wedge that runs in a groove in the shifter. Three ways to get it out, but 3 begin with a little penitrating oil:

wiggle the wedge with ViseGrips - side to side while pulling up and usually it comes out. This usually works.
Or, some straddle the console, get both hands wrapped around the ViseGrips, and pull upward - gorilla style. Sometimes it comes out, sometimes NOT.
A never fail method, no matter how tight, is to drill a hole in the center of the wedge and tap it for a #6 machine screw. Slap a fender washer across the top of the shift ****, run a nut onto the screw, followed by a washer, run the screw through the fender washer hole and thread it into the wedge about 1/4 to 3/8". Then turn the nut down against the washers and keep turnin it down and the wedge will be drawn up, pretty as you please - quite easily.

On reinstalling, give it a wrap or two with a plastic hammer or the like. Snug is good as long as the shift-pattern button will go back on, is the only other thing. Doesn't have to be mashed down in there so hard again.

One last hint is to put the trans in 3rd gear to drop it or reinstall it.

One other thing...If you don't have a pair of Bill Boudreaux's C-beam plates, NOW would be a dandy time to get some. If the things did none other than make removing and reinstalling that C-beam easier, they'd be well worth the $150 (or make you own). However, there is some additonal stability afforded which spreads the forces on those joints and keeps the differential from squirming under heavy load.

Good luck!

P.

Last edited by Paul Workman; Feb 17, 2012 at 05:05 AM.

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