LT1/LT4 Oil Leaks
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
LT1/LT4 Oil Leaks
I've been searching the forum for some time now, obviously there are numerous threads asking how common oil leaks are, how to fix them, where they are located, etc...
In January I purchased the factory service manual for my year (1994) and proceeded to dig into the front of the engine to diagnose an oil leak coming from the front of the engine and dripping down the pan and ultimately onto the floor. After water pump, opti, and balancer were out of the way I could see my leak was coming from the front crank seal and/or oil pan gasket. So I replaced both. The water pump seal and opti seal looked fine and there was no residue or build up around them so I left them alone. I also replaced the oil filter adapter gasket and o-ring.
All was well for 3 months until lastnight when I noticed a small dime sized drop on the garage floor. Looked underneath the car and I see the leak from the front of the engine is back, and it also looks like I am leaking from the oil filter adapter as well because it is dripping on the driver side cat which I plan to fix tonight or tomorrow..
My inquiry is, how many of you just live with your minor oil leaks? I honestly don't mind a dime size drop here and there, but I did initially go through the trouble of replacing those gaskets and trying to resolve the issue, which is frustrating since I like my engines to not leak. I know PLRX says just to live with it, even if you replace them, they will eventually start leaking again within months...So, how many of you just live with your minor oil leaks, and just wipe the pan off from time to time?
-Patrick
In January I purchased the factory service manual for my year (1994) and proceeded to dig into the front of the engine to diagnose an oil leak coming from the front of the engine and dripping down the pan and ultimately onto the floor. After water pump, opti, and balancer were out of the way I could see my leak was coming from the front crank seal and/or oil pan gasket. So I replaced both. The water pump seal and opti seal looked fine and there was no residue or build up around them so I left them alone. I also replaced the oil filter adapter gasket and o-ring.
All was well for 3 months until lastnight when I noticed a small dime sized drop on the garage floor. Looked underneath the car and I see the leak from the front of the engine is back, and it also looks like I am leaking from the oil filter adapter as well because it is dripping on the driver side cat which I plan to fix tonight or tomorrow..
My inquiry is, how many of you just live with your minor oil leaks? I honestly don't mind a dime size drop here and there, but I did initially go through the trouble of replacing those gaskets and trying to resolve the issue, which is frustrating since I like my engines to not leak. I know PLRX says just to live with it, even if you replace them, they will eventually start leaking again within months...So, how many of you just live with your minor oil leaks, and just wipe the pan off from time to time?
-Patrick
#3
Safety Car
Thoroughly check your PCV system. Any problem there can affect oil leaking. Mine has a slight front crank seal leak, I don't worry about it.
The intake manifold has to be most common. Taking it off some new gaskets and a heavy dose of Permatex's THE RIGHT STUFF, cured that leak.
The intake manifold has to be most common. Taking it off some new gaskets and a heavy dose of Permatex's THE RIGHT STUFF, cured that leak.
Last edited by 93Rubie; 03-01-2012 at 10:29 PM.
#4
Instructor
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Throw some dye in your oil to know where its comming from. You can buy a kit with dye, a black light and the shades for less than $80.
Works good for csi too if you have shady people in your life
To answer your question, I dont want leaks on my garage floor or driveway and I dont want to start lettting things go on my ride because thats how cars turn into a p.o.s, so no, I wouldnt live with it.
Works good for csi too if you have shady people in your life
To answer your question, I dont want leaks on my garage floor or driveway and I dont want to start lettting things go on my ride because thats how cars turn into a p.o.s, so no, I wouldnt live with it.
#5
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only had the valve covers leak and the intake leak. fixed both and happy that I did.
#6
Le Mans Master
The common leak sources have been pointed out here and they can be fixed. If not, they will eventually coat everything with oil which will then attract dirt and you'll have a mess to deal with under there.
My 96 had several engine oil leaks where oil had blown back and even coated the exhaust pipes and rear axle housing. Took about three cleaning attempts on four jack stands to finally get all the accumulated oily grime removed. I then stripped the engine down to a long block and started replacing gaskets and seals. All is well now.
My 96 had several engine oil leaks where oil had blown back and even coated the exhaust pipes and rear axle housing. Took about three cleaning attempts on four jack stands to finally get all the accumulated oily grime removed. I then stripped the engine down to a long block and started replacing gaskets and seals. All is well now.
Last edited by Greg Gore; 02-29-2012 at 08:56 PM.
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Great replies so far..
Ruby- Great info, I will check that out.
allautomotive- I don't like leaks either, and infact, I actually did use the dye method, and it did turn out to be the front crank seal originally. I replaced it in January, looks like its back again. Obviously I won't live with it forever, eventually the engine will come out when finances permit, but for the time being I may just have to live with it..
Nowhere man, thanks, the valve covers all look tight, and no seepage that I can see or feel. I shined my flashlight on the front engine cover, the oil residue is no higher than the front crank seal/oil pan gasket area..I may just try and re-torque the pan bolts down a smidgen more tomorrow.
Greg- That would be ideal! I would love to be able to do that, but this is my daily driver and I don't have the down time. I am putting around 350-400 miles a week on this car, and while it has never left me stranded, and has been a great car, just trying to sort out some leaks. Eventually the engine will be pulled and freshened up when it is no longer my daily. I am fully aware of the oil coating, I've been keeping an eye on that, when I initially went in to replace everything the front crossmember was pretty caked, it is still clean since I just caught the leak, my intention is to wipe it down every week or so when I give it its weekly wash and vac.
Hopefully I can sort this out, but I may just have to live with a tiny drop here and there. All SBC's have leaked since their birth...just kinda stinks. I am aware of all the leak points on an LTx and how to fix them.
Has anyone had luck replacing the hub with a new one to solve a front seal leak? I am aware that overtime a groove can be worn into the hub and when put back in it can wear down the new seal and start to leak again. I did polish the hub to a mirror finish before I reinstalled to try and avoid this.
I know a small leak isn't really a HUGE deal, and yes it can escalate into bigger problems down the road, but it is good to see many of you dealing with it and just driving them as is.
Ruby- Great info, I will check that out.
allautomotive- I don't like leaks either, and infact, I actually did use the dye method, and it did turn out to be the front crank seal originally. I replaced it in January, looks like its back again. Obviously I won't live with it forever, eventually the engine will come out when finances permit, but for the time being I may just have to live with it..
Nowhere man, thanks, the valve covers all look tight, and no seepage that I can see or feel. I shined my flashlight on the front engine cover, the oil residue is no higher than the front crank seal/oil pan gasket area..I may just try and re-torque the pan bolts down a smidgen more tomorrow.
Greg- That would be ideal! I would love to be able to do that, but this is my daily driver and I don't have the down time. I am putting around 350-400 miles a week on this car, and while it has never left me stranded, and has been a great car, just trying to sort out some leaks. Eventually the engine will be pulled and freshened up when it is no longer my daily. I am fully aware of the oil coating, I've been keeping an eye on that, when I initially went in to replace everything the front crossmember was pretty caked, it is still clean since I just caught the leak, my intention is to wipe it down every week or so when I give it its weekly wash and vac.
Hopefully I can sort this out, but I may just have to live with a tiny drop here and there. All SBC's have leaked since their birth...just kinda stinks. I am aware of all the leak points on an LTx and how to fix them.
Has anyone had luck replacing the hub with a new one to solve a front seal leak? I am aware that overtime a groove can be worn into the hub and when put back in it can wear down the new seal and start to leak again. I did polish the hub to a mirror finish before I reinstalled to try and avoid this.
I know a small leak isn't really a HUGE deal, and yes it can escalate into bigger problems down the road, but it is good to see many of you dealing with it and just driving them as is.
Last edited by TorchTarga94; 02-29-2012 at 09:09 PM.
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
This is what I am currently dealing with..same as before I replaced the seals, aside from the oil filter/adapter now leaking also..
This is from 2 days of driving (120 miles each day)
This is from 2 days of driving (120 miles each day)
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Great, I'll give that a go tomorrow along with the oil filter housing. I took tomorrow off to get this thing somewhat squared away. Drove fine today, oil pressure was fine. Just keeping an eye out..
#11
Le Mans Master
Retorquing pan bolts is certainly worth a try since the new gasket may have taken a set by now. The oil filter housing, oil pan gasket, intake manifold end joints and the waterpump drive shaft seal were all leaking on mine.
#13
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20
This is a clean LT1 Take my word for it.
#14
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
You think so? These leaks from the front engine cover are pretty inevitable huh?
On a side note, all pan bolts were tight, intake looks and feels dry. The bolts holding the oil filter adapter was a Tad loose, and the oil filter was over tigthened so I replaced that. I drove it a bit today and so far nothing is hitting the ground.
On a side note, all pan bolts were tight, intake looks and feels dry. The bolts holding the oil filter adapter was a Tad loose, and the oil filter was over tigthened so I replaced that. I drove it a bit today and so far nothing is hitting the ground.
#15
Safety Car
Shoot my LT1 has more oil than that on it. Mine does not drip onto the floor however. Most of it is old, residue that I don't care to take off. Lazy and it is really good rust protection are my reasons.
#16
Burning Brakes
In December I did the intake, valve covers, timing cover and the 3 seals in it and the oil pan. Just pulled the water pump and hub to sleeve the hub to try and get rid of that weeping problem. Have a small grove on the hub that won’t seal.
Chevy has been making the SB since 55 and there is no reason for them to make a motor that leaks. I’ve never had a Chevy that leaked like my 96 LT1. That’s probably one of the reasons they stopped making it after what, 6 years.
Chevy has been making the SB since 55 and there is no reason for them to make a motor that leaks. I’ve never had a Chevy that leaked like my 96 LT1. That’s probably one of the reasons they stopped making it after what, 6 years.
#17
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St. Jude Donor '05
his is a clean LT1 Take my word for it.
2 drips, trade him for a puddle lol.
Never seen a 2pc rms that didnt leak. If it didnt it was going to.
1 pc rms an improvement
LSx they have nailed down
135k on my 5.3 not a drip, ever.
#18
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Rubie- LOL, I think I said the same thing..."well at-least it will protect from rust!"
Cola- I agree bud, since there are 3 seals in the timing cover, it is bound to leak at sometime or another, even after a repair. It's a shame, it seems like a little more thought could have gone into the location of the ignition system and leak prevention in the future. Obviously their efforts were focused more on production and less on overall quality. Not to say the LT's aren't reliable, stout engines...
cuisinart- Thank you lol, I agree with the 2 piece RMS, luckily we have a 1 piece, and so far so good there (knock on wood).
Cola- I agree bud, since there are 3 seals in the timing cover, it is bound to leak at sometime or another, even after a repair. It's a shame, it seems like a little more thought could have gone into the location of the ignition system and leak prevention in the future. Obviously their efforts were focused more on production and less on overall quality. Not to say the LT's aren't reliable, stout engines...
cuisinart- Thank you lol, I agree with the 2 piece RMS, luckily we have a 1 piece, and so far so good there (knock on wood).
#19
I'm from Toronto and my 95 is leaking as well with 110 km on it about 62 ,ooo miles I'm guessing. How much did that cost you I think my is leaking from the same two places. With labour .
#20
Had an ls-1 in 2001 z28 was wet at the oilfilter back of pan to back side of pan wet through 1 qt regular oil in 600 miles, i wonder you guys have heard of the piston slap contoversy where bores become worn and oil gets past rings and burns out exhaust but catalytics clean it up but ya still lose oil through seals and burning.
this z28 was only 74,000 miles basicaly i was 2nd owner it was a stick.
Questions what chevy small block have less leak, burn issues l98's lt-1's or lsi's or earlier engines????
this z28 was only 74,000 miles basicaly i was 2nd owner it was a stick.
Questions what chevy small block have less leak, burn issues l98's lt-1's or lsi's or earlier engines????