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Car is a 95. The edge of my dash is peeling up along the windshield. It's bad enough that the center vent cover doesn't stay snapped down. Now that the weather is warming up I want to fix it. I'm wondering if anyone has tackled this before? If so, what glue(s) did or didn't successfully work? Any tips or tricks?
Mine wasn't very bad on my old 95, but the curled-up-from-sitting-in-the-sun for too many years dash defect was one of a few reasons I decided to buy a cleaner C4 rather than restore the one I had. Pulling the windshield out would probably be required to have a chance of improving it.
What we've done is to remove the dash pad, and using a small (1/4 comercial) staple gun, re-attach the rim of the top to the backing. It generally reguires staples about 3/4" apart to keep the top from "peaking" between the staples. If you want to cover the staples use a skin of black rtv along the edge. The staples should hold in the plastic backing permentatly. A manual stapler won't penatrate the plastic, so we use an air stapler (Harpor Freight has them cheap). Almost all of the 90 -96 cars subjected to sunlight will need this. It also re-attaches center console pads on the 90-96. It also works on the earlier door panels.
This project is getting filed under "What the f____ were they thinking?". Got the dash pad out and I don't think any glue is going to fix this. There's foam between the rubber outside and plastic frame. If I glue it the foam will just crumble off.
My dash was peeling up just like yours, by the windshield. I pulled the dash out and used a 2 part epoxy that was made for plastic. I picked the plastic type epoxy because I figured the dash cover was a type of plastic or vinyl. I was careful to get the glue inside the dash as deep as I could, but at the same time not peel it up anymore and cause even more damage. Then I used 10 or more spring clamps with popsicle sticks and rulers to hold it down flat and level for 24 hours. I did that repair over two years ago and it still looks like new.
My dash was peeling up just like yours, by the windshield. I pulled the dash out and used a 2 part epoxy that was made for plastic. I picked the plastic type epoxy because I figured the dash cover was a type of plastic or vinyl. I was careful to get the glue inside the dash as deep as I could, but at the same time not peel it up anymore and cause even more damage. Then I used 10 or more spring clamps with popsicle sticks and rulers to hold it down flat and level for 24 hours. I did that repair over two years ago and it still looks like new.
That was my original plan but after looking at it wouldn't the foam just stick in the glue and the rubber pull away from the foam? Maybe I should scrape the foam from the rubber before trying to glue it?
I vaguely remember some of the foam falling out on it's own and I probably scraped out some more so the glue could grab something solid. I don't think I got it totally sterile but I probably got it close. That 2 part plastic epoxy (permatex I think?) was good stuff.
I vaguely remember some of the foam falling out on it's own and I probably scraped out some more so the glue could grab something solid. I don't think I got it totally sterile but I probably got it close. That 2 part plastic epoxy (permatex I think?) was good stuff.
Well, I gave it a go. I used some loctite 2 part plastic bonding epoxy. It takes 24 hours to dry so I'll know tomorrow how well it holds. I only had enough clamps and stir sticks to do half at a time so if it does work, I'll do the other half of it tomorrow.
Well, I gave it a go. I used some loctite 2 part plastic bonding epoxy. It takes 24 hours to dry so I'll know tomorrow how well it holds. I only had enough clamps and stir sticks to do half at a time so if it does work, I'll do the other half of it tomorrow.
Obviously only time will tell how well this holds up but it seems to be doing ok. I went ahead and glued the other half today. Definitely scuff the plastic first! Any place the plastic wasn't scuffed first, the glue popped off.
It comes off fairly easily. Remove the top sensor pad, the cluster plastic suround, the center bezel and pass side air vents. Then remove the 7mm and phillips head screws (check for hidden screws). We've tried the epoxy methods with generally bad results. The staple method is easier, permenant, and looks better, and you don't have to shave the foam edge and use a bunch of clamps. Once you figure it out, it should take about three hours start to finish. There is about an 1/8th lip around the edge so the staples are pretty much out of sight.