Don't forget that the 84-87 wheels have a different offset than the wheels of the 88-later cars.

The 87 wheels have a 38mm offset while the later wheels have a 56mm offset. This is about a 3/4" different and the later wheels will sit that much further inside the wheelwell. There won't be any interference issues, it will just look strange.

There are ZR-1 style wheels made with the specific 38mm offset for the early cars.

 

Thanks

 

Seeing as I have to mot my Jaguar tomorrow and that my mot guy knows someone who does upholstery I decided to remove the seats from the corvette. I then wet vacuumed all the carpets and they came up brilliantly.

I came across a bit of a problem when cleaning the carpets. I was unable to open my rear hatch. I have a switch on the drivers door side and inside the centre console that say they open the rear hatch.

Unfortunately with either the ignition on or off neither of the buttons do anything. Do I have to have the engine running or am I missing something?

 

Sounds like a bad relay or perhaps a fuse. You shouldn't need the ignition on to get the rear hatch open. The passenger door also has a hatch release button.

There is a small pull wire that is located just to the left of the pull-out security screen handle. It will be at the top of the carpeting and hidden behind it. Might have to search around for the wire as it's thin and only about 4-5 inches long. Pulling on the wire will open the hatch.

The relay is under the black plastic trim at the rear of the storage compartment. Just remove the screws and pull the trim. The relay is under the trim near the latch.

 

I like to use Jason at www.vette2vette.com for used parts. Last time I was there he had a set of mounter ZR-1 style wheels. He ships all over the world.
Good luck with your project.

 

That was the hardest wire to find in the world but I got my hatch open.

I will need a new hatch seal as the current one is quite perished.

Thanks for the help with sorting the hatch i will now see if i can sort the problem with the switch

 

Pull the e-brake on and try it

 

Its ok, I found that the reason it didn't work is water had seeped into the relay and rusted all the contacts. I stripped down the relay and sanded down all the points and now it works perfectly

 

Currently im waiting to put an order for a load of parts so whilst im waiting im wondering if there are any benefits of removing all the emissions parts?

Either way the cats are going to be removed for a full stainless straight through exhaust system, and I have read that there is also an AIR system which is powered by the engine that can be removed. Has anyone got a guide of how to remove all this and are there and benefits to removing it?

 

I love the international input on this Forum. It may be US based but some of our best knowledge base is overseas. The Ozzies are big here, scandinavians, eastern europeans, south and central americans, frenchies and a russian or two.

Hitman has had a long road to drive with his car and I admire his determination of trying to fix up a Vette in Panama.

Anyway Scappy welcome to the craziness. You think VAT is expensive wait til you run into the Corvette tax!!

 

Thanks, parts are quite hard to get hold of in the UK and seem to be much more expensive.

Could anyone help with my previous question regarding the removal of the emissions (A.I.R) system.

 

Ive taken some photos of the parts I believe need to be removed to delete the emissions systems.









Regarding the metal pipes connected to the manifold do I cut the small pipes off where they join to the manifold or do something else?

Also regarding the vacuum line I seem to only have one coming off the canisters i will remove, where do I reroute this too.

Sorry about all the questions but over here in the UK we don't have any of these systems, and even though im a mechanic I have never come across them before, so its a bit of a learning curve.

 

Surely someone must know what to do about this.

 

First you have to eliminate the AIR Pump, you can fine the eliminator brackets on various websites including EBAY, the parts from TPIS.com look really, good quality, you can then remove the diverter valves, and the hoses and associated pipework, the pipes that connect to the exhaust manifolds have one way valves on them so you shouldn't have any exhaust back flow, however you can remove them and blank the end with a pipe plug, sort of thing you can get from a plumbers merchants, BSS / Plumbcenter, etc.
Finally you can remove the pipe that connects to the centre cat, and blank of the connection.
I have alway found Scott at Corvette Kingdom very helpful for advice and parts.

 

Right because you are all useless and not replying i decided to have a go myself.

Just kidding you have all been very helpfull.

I started by removing these two valve blocks and the holding brackets





I then removed the pipes from the exhaust manifold




I will remove the remaining pipes after i have taken the airpump off and stripped it down.

 

Looks like we posted at the same time

I found my vacuum hose full of fuel so i need a new fuel pressure regulator

Also can you tell me what this sensor is on my block (between the spark plugs). I found the connection plug was broken.



Also do i need to do anything with the connectors i removed off the valve block or just tuck them away? And do i just connect a vacuum hose between the plenum and fuel pressure regulator.

 

The sensor between the first two spark plugs on the left bank of the engine, controls the auxillary cooling fan that sits in front of the radiator, It has never run on my 1989, guess the weather in Scotland, never really gets warm enough to get the coolant upto 228F, Most of the Corvette suppliers in the UK can get you a new one, the main cooling fans are controlled by the ECM.

You should be able to get a new diaphragm for the FPR from the same suppliers, a worthwhile modification at this time would be to fit an adjustable regulator for slight improvement to performance.

The wiring for the diverter valves can be tucked out of the way.

 

Thanks for the reply. The sensor is ok its the plug itself that seems to have broken but that's not important at the moment as i have a billion other things to get on with .

An adjustable fuel pressure regulator seems like a good idea. Can i just get a universal one or do i need a specific on with a fitting kit.

Also regarding the vacuum hose do i just run it between the regulator and plenum as in the picture?

Its nice to meet a fellow UK owner

 

Hi

You need a specific FRP for the TPI engine, loads of them available on EBAY.com, I bought mine from TPIS.com, try www.rockauto.com for parts they are happy to ship to the UK and the prices are very reasonable.

The vacuum pipe connects directly from the plenum to the FPR.

Regards
Mark

 

I understand that the corvette itself requires a certain FPR but if i was to buy an adjustable one surely i could get a universal one and set it to the required pressure, Or do i need specific connections that the adjustable one would not have? cheers