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While pulling out of a holiday camp site here an hour ago. My c4 stalled and won't restart. I used it this morning for approx 70 miles. Then switched it off for a few hours. Restarted it and went to leave the campsite and it died after a matter of 500 yards! I merely took my foot off the brake and let it gently pull away under its own speed. It is an auto by the way. It spins over but nothing else, the fuel pump can be heard priming when the ignition is turned on.
You will do a lot better if you tell us what year car you have or at least fill out your profile.
No start diagnosis is pretty straight forward, but you need to eliminate each possible cause in turn rather than guessing or replacing a part because someone says if fixed their car.
Make sure you actually have fuel pressure in the rail. If you do check for spark at the plugs. Ignition control modules have been known to fail under the conditions you describe if you have an LT1, but it is only a swag, you need to do some testing, good luck.
The ignition module and coil have just been changed, car started and seemed to run better only for it to cut out approx 10mins later. The engine just cuts completely, dash lights etc all stay on still.
Im going to try and get hold of a fuel pressure tester, in the mean time, any other ideas?
The ignition module and coil have just been changed, car started and seemed to run better only for it to cut out approx 10mins later. The engine just cuts completely, dash lights etc all stay on still.
Im going to try and get hold of a fuel pressure tester, in the mean time, any other ideas?
I don't drive mine often and occasionally see the effects of water in the gas tank. The engine shuts off, but will restart after a while with a little starter cranking. So, while you test for fuel pressure you might pump some fluid out of the fuel line to clear any possible water from the tank/lines.
Injection is batch fire.
If multi tech injectors are still in use a heat related failing or failed injector can/will shut the engine off.
Suggest ohm testing the injectors when cold & hot. If you find one or two out of spec unplug them. The engine should start.
I like the Bosch 3 injectors in my 90.
It may seem obvious but its happened to me... is there gas in the tank? Once my float stuck on me and it was trouble shooting for weeks till i pulled the pump and saw no gas...
Oh and if you are in a jam with no tools, get some starter fluid and see it it fires with it. Then you can eliminate spark and timing. Then you know for sure its fuel related.
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Originally Posted by Chgperformance
Right, the car is a 1990, L98 engine.
The ignition module and coil have just been changed, car started and seemed to run better only for it to cut out approx 10mins later. The engine just cuts completely, dash lights etc all stay on still.
Im going to try and get hold of a fuel pressure tester, in the mean time, any other ideas?
While pulling out of a holiday camp site here an hour ago. My c4 stalled and won't restart. I used it this morning for approx 70 miles. Then switched it off for a few hours. Restarted it and went to leave the campsite and it died after a matter of 500 yards! I merely took my foot off the brake and let it gently pull away under its own speed. It is an auto by the way. It spins over but nothing else, the fuel pump can be heard priming when the ignition is turned on.
Any ideas?
Add fuel. Your Fuel Indicator on the IP may be stuck showing more than you have. Drop a few gallons in and test it out. Its an $8 check. If your wrong you still have the 2 gallons in your tank. GC
Thanks for the other suggestions, the car definatly has fuel in, i put in 6 ish gallons just before it died the 5th or 6th time trying to leave the fuel station!
It definatly seems to be spark related. The recovery guy when i broke down last time tried easy start (etha in a spray can) with no luck at all. Injectors were pulsing but no spark to light the fuel!
Hence why i changed the coil and module! What tells the coil to fire? Have i missed something on the ignition side of things? Crank sensor? Pickup inside the dizzy?
If one injector was causing the engine to shut down, would it kill the spark though?
There is a magnetic pickup coil in the distributor under the rotor. It sends timing pulses to the ignition module.
Check all your distributor connections:
You should have tach & power on the top/side of the distributor cap.
There is also a 3-wire cable behind the tach & power wires going from the top/side into the front of the distributor.
Also check the 4-wire timing cable coming out the back (it goes to/from the ECM to control the spark). There is a connector about a foot away from the distributor.
You can bypass the ECM by unplugging the EST connector between the windshield wiper motor and the brake booster.
The ignition module and coil have just been changed, car started and seemed to run better only for it to cut out approx 10mins later. The engine just cuts completely, dash lights etc all stay on still.
Im going to try and get hold of a fuel pressure tester, in the mean time, any other ideas?
If the car quit only 10 min after replacing the ign. module and coil,I would go back in and make sure a wire isn't pinched or a wire may have broken off the pick up coil. Good luck.