Fuseable link nightmare
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Joined: Dec 2011
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From: houma louisiana
Fuseable link nightmare
I changed the fuseable links with common autofuse type fuses. I have went up to a 50 amp fuse on one circuit yet its blowing the fuses and the motor dies aven while running on the road.As well now it has caused the engine to idle at a high rpm (1400RPMS). i HAD REPLACED the neutral safety switch whiuch brought the idle down to 500, but something is going on here since the fuses started popping. Im at a loss, the diagrams for wiring i have gives no fusable link amperage requirements and am getting frustrated. I am pretty knowledgeable with some electronics but this is whippin my butt... thanks.on the fuse thast blows it shuts down lots n lots including the dash or cluster,I can believe they have that much on one circuit. Im getting 13.8 volts at the harness behind the battery, the junction post that stays hot. any ideas?
Last edited by Louisiana vette man; May 24, 2012 at 05:33 PM.
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From: Anaheim CA
I think most of the fusible links go to the fuse block. If you're blowing 50 amp fuses then you have a direct short to ground somewhere (which is obviously intermittent since it works part of the time -- the worst kind of problem to troubleshoot).
On the other thread, I was only kidding about the 300 amp fuse. When I was an electronic technician I have had high current draw problems that I just couldn't figure out and put in HUGE fuses and waited for smoke... I believe this is a legitimate troubleshooting technique, but you may not want burning wires hidden in the dashboard somewhere. I was working in PC boards plugged into a test fixture right in front of me where everything was visible.
On the other thread, I was only kidding about the 300 amp fuse. When I was an electronic technician I have had high current draw problems that I just couldn't figure out and put in HUGE fuses and waited for smoke... I believe this is a legitimate troubleshooting technique, but you may not want burning wires hidden in the dashboard somewhere. I was working in PC boards plugged into a test fixture right in front of me where everything was visible.
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Joined: May 2012
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You have one of 2 things going on, either a pinched wire to ground or some component is drawing excessive current.
DO NOT substitute fuses or put bigger ones in, it is just asking for more trouble.
One thing to keep in mind is the "blow rate" of fusible links and blade fuses may be different. Your car (should) work fine with the factory fusible links.
First you need to determine what the circuit is and amperage. Get a diagram, test-pop-replace with standard value fuses, then trace problem to the source, unplug things/inspect/whatever it takes, fix it, then put in the correct size fusible link back in when done.
DO NOT substitute fuses or put bigger ones in, it is just asking for more trouble.
One thing to keep in mind is the "blow rate" of fusible links and blade fuses may be different. Your car (should) work fine with the factory fusible links.
First you need to determine what the circuit is and amperage. Get a diagram, test-pop-replace with standard value fuses, then trace problem to the source, unplug things/inspect/whatever it takes, fix it, then put in the correct size fusible link back in when done.
