My Vette (93 Coupe) stops like a dump truck. This morning coming to work I could not stop at the line for the red light, OK, I might have been going a LITTLE too fast?
So I know I need to do brake work. I replaced the Master Cylinder, no help.
So now I am in the pads and rotors mode. Will Drilled and Slotted Rotors make a difference on the street. I read that the slots and holes are to dissipate gases, so how many PANIC stops can you do before that is an issue, 1, 2, 3 .......?
Mid America sells complete packages for the C4, are they good enough, or are the BEARS that much better?
Do the BEAR pads make a difference on the street?

 

Do you have the J55 option?

 

No, standard brakes. I think it has the 12 " rotors.

 

I'd find a set of used J55 calipers and brackets, a set of Hawk HPS pads front and rear, a set of stainless lines (optional), and a fresh brake fluid flush (I use valvoline's synthetic Dot3/4 that can be found at any autoparts store).

 

Somethin' ain't right. With OEM pads and rotors -- even well used ones --you ought to be able to lock up the wheels and activate the ABS.

I could on my 95K '94 when I first got it, even though the rotors were scored and the brake fluid came out looking like Starbucks expresso.

 

Check your vacuum brake booster operation. Seems to be a common failing point. At idle, you should be able to just about push the pedal thru the end of its travel. Shut engine off, a few pumps and the pedal should get firm with a noticeable increased in resistance after the vacuum gets used up.

 

So does a bad Vacuum booster get hard right away? IE: you don't get those extra couple pumps?

 

So, is your pedal real hard to push or easy?
Is the pedal going to the floor?
Do the rotors look glazed or have a burned look to them?
Give us a little more info. We'll get it figured out.

 

Rotors are toast. Pads pretty new, put on new pads and was too cheap to replace rotors.
Pedal seams to get too hard as you use the brakes, it's like I run out of travel but they are not on the floor. I am looking at the Booster, but need to know for sure before I spend any money. That cheap thing again. I am going to replace the rotors and pads on all 4 wheels, I wanted to know about the extra cost of drilled, slotted rotors. Is it really worth the money on a purely street car? But after reading that post about the booster, it got me thinking maybe that could be an issue?

 

Might not be the best set up for track, but should be Adequate for the street, this almost sounds like the brakes were hot and fading.

 

If you replace the booster. Get the metal one. I think they switched to the plastic unit in 91. I've heard nothing but bad things about the replacement plastic units.

 

Yes I agree. BUT, it was the first stop that I made from any speed at all.

 

Thanks, I'll remember that.

 

I have had boosters go bad, leaving me with a ROCK hard pedal. Can they get "Weak" for lack of a better word?

 

I have a similar problem on my 84...I changed the pads to Ceramics and turned the rotors, and flushed the fluid.....the consensus seems to be the booster has a problem. I have new hoses on order, sicne i have the originals still on. Saving my pennies for a new metal booster.

 

Thanks to all for all the help.

 

Ill address the slotted and drilled question since no one has. First off any drilled rotors you see that are not carbon are purely for looks. Slots help dissipate heat and so do holes but the holes weaken the rotor and can make it prone to cracking. The only time holes are acceptable are when they are cast with them like porsche or ferrari. Anything you buy will just be purely for looks. New pad compounds dont produce the gas you are talking about. That is 1970s tech. They do still produce head and the slots help.

Your problem is not your rotors or pads. If you cant lock your tires up there is only really two things wrong and both have to do with pressure. Either booster or air in the line/dirty fluid. Id bleed the system, and then feel the bottom of your booster. That is where they crack. Id be willing to bet its the booster.

Even if the booster is on its way out and has a tiny crack you should still be able to push really hard on the pedal and get lockup. You talk about going the least expensive route is replacing rotors and pads but if that was not the problem then that seems more costly.

Check booster, bleed system. You should stop.

On a second note i upgraded to c5 brakes and highly reccomend it bang for buck. No fade on lap 3 at the track.

 

I bled the system when I replaced my front pads, about 3 years ago and maybe 5,000 miles. It did not stop any better after that, but it is getting worse.
The Rotors were in bad shape then, but I kept them. The braking surface looks OK, but the rest is getting rusty.

 

I'm thinking you meant HEAT This is why i have to disagree with you here. Cross drilled and slotted rotors aid in keeping the rotors cooler, preventing brake fade and reduce rotor warping.

 

I have been having the same issue... I have changed rotors and pads on all 4 corners..l vacuum bled the system quite a few times... And still can't get it to lock up on a flat dry road....

I used a mirror and a flashlight and checked the booster.. I even sprayed starting fluid all over it without any change in RPM... I disconnected the vacuum and there is a noticeable difference.. So I would say on my end my booster is functioning correctly...

But I wonder if the tires make a difference... Could the tires compound and size make a difference on whether they lock up or not??