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Finally back on the road

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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 03:26 PM
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Default Finally back on the road

The Lt4 rides again. I rebuilt the rear suspension, new kyb shocks, new timken bearings, moog tie rod ends, poly bushings installed lots of cleaning and polishing. I drove it a couple of times and then my clutch was not working. Turned out to be the slave cylinder. Many thanks to Jim at Power torque systems. He rebuilt everything for a great price and was very helpful in describing how to take it all apart and put it together. It's am great feeling. The clutch pedal has been a problem for awhile and I just didn't know how it was supposed to feel. It drives so much smoother now. Thanks to everyone here who chimed in along the way, as usual, I couldn't have done it all without the forum
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 03:27 PM
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 07:01 PM
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Congrats on getting your car on the road again. That would be a good feeling to know everything is in good shape.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 08:06 PM
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Make sure that castle nut has a cotter pin through it. If it's a cinch nut, it's not cinching much.
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Make sure that castle nut has a cotter pin through it. If it's a cinch nut, it's not cinching much.
which castle nut? I have cotter pins in the tie rod ends, the new bolt for the spring is a nylon nut. I may have taken this picture before everything was buttoned up. If you see anything that's not right please let me know, Thanks
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Old Jun 15, 2012 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Elrick
which castle nut? I have cotter pins in the tie rod ends, the new bolt for the spring is a nylon nut. I may have taken this picture before everything was buttoned up. If you see anything that's not right please let me know, Thanks
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Bandit's C4
pretty sure that a cotter pin does not go in here. Please correct me if I am wrong, there was not a hole for one at least
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Elrick
pretty sure that a cotter pin does not go in here. Please correct me if I am wrong, there was not a hole for one at least
Normally the bolt is reversed and the nut is on the bottom. The stock bolt has a cottor pin through it to keep the castle nut from unscrewing which would be pretty disasterous. Looks like you need a longer bolt and a cinch nut or even 2 nuts tightened against each other. If I am seeing the picture correctly, you shouldn't drive down the street with the nut hanging on by a few threads.
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 01:57 PM
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someone needs glasses. The bottom (threaded) end of that bolt is not visible in these pics. Those arrows point to the top (head) of a Grade 8 bolt with the appropriate markings on the head of the bolt.
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Old Jun 16, 2012 | 02:08 PM
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Congrats! That is great news to see it back on the road.

Later,

Lee
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 383vett
Normally the bolt is reversed and the nut is on the bottom. The stock bolt has a cottor pin through it to keep the castle nut from unscrewing which would be pretty disasterous. Looks like you need a longer bolt and a cinch nut or even 2 nuts tightened against each other. If I am seeing the picture correctly, you shouldn't drive down the street with the nut hanging on by a few threads.
that is the head of the bolt, the nut is on the bottom, it's a nylon lock nut. This is an after market bolt to lower the ride height. I guess the bolt head does look like a nut but it is not. I am a bit of a rookie but not that inexperienced
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