SECURITY light - Help!
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: East Stroudsburg PA
SECURITY light - Help!
Yesterday, I tapped the arm button on my remote control a few times while walking toward my 94 coupe. At one point, the alarm sounded for about a second.
I tapped the disarm button, got in, and it wouldn't start.
Long story short, I push started it and drove home. While driving home, I noticed the "SECURITY" light was lit solid.
I think I was able to push-start it because, in Tunercat, VATS was enabled - but the fuel cut-off was not.
I went through the disarm procedure in the FSM a couple of times - no cranking.
I tried disconnecting the battery for a while - no go.
I put the jumper in the diagnostic connector - and "played" with the buttons for a while. This allowed me to start the car twice in a row.
This morning, when I disarmed the alarm - it gave me the signal that it had been tripped last night. The car didn't crank.
Does anyone know what I did to reset the condition last night? Do I have to have the CCM relearn my keys? Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
I tapped the disarm button, got in, and it wouldn't start.
Long story short, I push started it and drove home. While driving home, I noticed the "SECURITY" light was lit solid.
I think I was able to push-start it because, in Tunercat, VATS was enabled - but the fuel cut-off was not.
I went through the disarm procedure in the FSM a couple of times - no cranking.
I tried disconnecting the battery for a while - no go.
I put the jumper in the diagnostic connector - and "played" with the buttons for a while. This allowed me to start the car twice in a row.
This morning, when I disarmed the alarm - it gave me the signal that it had been tripped last night. The car didn't crank.
Does anyone know what I did to reset the condition last night? Do I have to have the CCM relearn my keys? Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: East Stroudsburg PA
I'm in Maryland. And, the alarm is just automatically armed when you lock with the remote.
I don't think it's a problem with the aftermarket remote - because the SECURITY light is coming on. And, I think that indicates the CCM taking exception with something.
I don't think it's a problem with the aftermarket remote - because the SECURITY light is coming on. And, I think that indicates the CCM taking exception with something.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,075
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From: Longmont Co
There is an aftermarket alarm system that is armed with the remote, it is not turning the factory system on and off. I'm pretty sure that if the VATS system was involved you would not be able to push start it. You should pull the codes and see why the security light might be coming on, I would try to find the fuse(s) for your aftermarket system and pull that, see what difference that makes. I think there is a good chance that is the culprit. Can't know for sure unless you find out how it is wired in.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: East Stroudsburg PA
Pretty sure the remote arms both systems. When I've set it off by accident, I get the aftermarket siren - and the horn. And, the security light seemed to function "Normally" before this.
I'll pull the codes again. Hopefully something will shed some light. Thanks.
I'll pull the codes again. Hopefully something will shed some light. Thanks.
Pro
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 503
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From: Virginia Beach VA
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: East Stroudsburg PA
I scanned the codes, and I seem to have an issue with PassKey. I may have accidentally disconnected the connection at the bottom of the steering column when I checked the connection for the neutral safety switch on the clutch.
I was able to start the car by going to 1.4 in the diagnostics (making the CCM actuate "stuff"), running the test for the starter enable relay, and starting the car when the test was in the "1" state.
I will need to go through the decision tree in the FSM for the passkey code. I'm hoping I disconnected it.
I was able to start the car by going to 1.4 in the diagnostics (making the CCM actuate "stuff"), running the test for the starter enable relay, and starting the car when the test was in the "1" state.
I will need to go through the decision tree in the FSM for the passkey code. I'm hoping I disconnected it.
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: East Stroudsburg PA
I pulled the knee panel today. The system installed is a Viper 350 Plus.
I'm getting H53 in the scan of my codes for the CCM. That means PassKey is open or getting B+. I checked the one connection at the bottom of the steering column (Purple/Wite, Wite/Black) - and the connector is fully in. I haven't gone through the decision tree in the FSM yet.
It's a coincidence that this started after my pressing the arm button like a madman. If it's a PassKey issue, whe didn't disabling VATS with TunerCat "fix" it? Why does the security light stay on solid? Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
I'm getting H53 in the scan of my codes for the CCM. That means PassKey is open or getting B+. I checked the one connection at the bottom of the steering column (Purple/Wite, Wite/Black) - and the connector is fully in. I haven't gone through the decision tree in the FSM yet.
It's a coincidence that this started after my pressing the arm button like a madman. If it's a PassKey issue, whe didn't disabling VATS with TunerCat "fix" it? Why does the security light stay on solid? Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
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From: East Stroudsburg PA
I performed the diagnostic tree for DTC 53 in the FSM. It said to replace the ignition switch - which told me there was a problem in the key "reader".
I measured the resistance in the key, build the same amount of resistance using some resistors from Radio Shack, and put them into the harness where the connection for the ignition switch goes.
The car starts! And, no more security light!
I'd like to have the PassKey work properly - but, changing my ignition switch is a task for another day...
I measured the resistance in the key, build the same amount of resistance using some resistors from Radio Shack, and put them into the harness where the connection for the ignition switch goes.
The car starts! And, no more security light!
I'd like to have the PassKey work properly - but, changing my ignition switch is a task for another day...