Another 88 no start problem.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 349
Likes: 1
From: Clayton CA
Another 88 no start problem.
This has to be a relay somewhere. 88 auto. battery good and charged. Turn the key and all lights work, turn to start all quiet, nothing. I stick the jump box to the battery and starts right up. I cleaned the cables, checked the charge and stays the same. I searched and everything was about hot no start and neutral safety switches. This happens every time wether warm or cold. Any suggestions appreciated.
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
This has to be a relay somewhere. 88 auto. battery good and charged. Turn the key and all lights work, turn to start all quiet, nothing. I stick the jump box to the battery and starts right up. I cleaned the cables, checked the charge and stays the same. I searched and everything was about hot no start and neutral safety switches. This happens every time wether warm or cold. Any suggestions appreciated.
wipe key and try after 4 minutes -the time it takes to apply jumper. if battery was out of the circuit there would be no lights.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 349
Likes: 1
From: Clayton CA
Thanks for the suggestions. The thing that was throwing me off was it starting with the jump box. Will clean up the key.
If the relay behind the DIC was bad would it start with jumping?
Thanks again for the ideas.
If the relay behind the DIC was bad would it start with jumping?
Thanks again for the ideas.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 6,229
Likes: 698
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
if security is not on with key in run, probably not vats.
joe
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 361
Likes: 7
A few months ago I had the same problem with my '88. The battery measured 12.5 volts but my car would not start without the booster.
I took the battery to Autozone, where I bought it, and they hooked it up to this little hand held unit. The associate told me the battery measured fine and they wouldn't exchange it. Ok, I put it back in the car and the next morning it wouldn't start again.
I then left the battery off at Pepboys and they did a proper bench load test, and guess what? Battery measured fine but would not hold a deep charge. Pepboys gave me the bench test read out and I took it and the battery back to Autozone.
When they read the test read out from Pepboys they gave me another battery.
I took the battery to Autozone, where I bought it, and they hooked it up to this little hand held unit. The associate told me the battery measured fine and they wouldn't exchange it. Ok, I put it back in the car and the next morning it wouldn't start again.
I then left the battery off at Pepboys and they did a proper bench load test, and guess what? Battery measured fine but would not hold a deep charge. Pepboys gave me the bench test read out and I took it and the battery back to Autozone.
When they read the test read out from Pepboys they gave me another battery.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 346
From: Anaheim CA
The VATS module does two things after correctly reading the pellet in the key:
1 - Send a 30 Hz square wave to the ECM. The ECM turns on the injectors after it verifies that the VATS signal is correct. The fact that it starts with the jump box says that the VATS module is reading the key pellet correctly and sending the VATS signal to the ECM. In other words, the VATS module is working correctly.
2 - Turn on the starter relay, which enables the voltage to the starter solenoid. It sounds like this part isn't happening. You might have a wiring problem or bad starter relay. It's on a slide-out plastic holder behind the center cluster status display. It's easy to recognize by the large diameter yellow wires coming out of it. You should hear this relay clicking even if the starter doesn't work:
1 - Send a 30 Hz square wave to the ECM. The ECM turns on the injectors after it verifies that the VATS signal is correct. The fact that it starts with the jump box says that the VATS module is reading the key pellet correctly and sending the VATS signal to the ECM. In other words, the VATS module is working correctly.
2 - Turn on the starter relay, which enables the voltage to the starter solenoid. It sounds like this part isn't happening. You might have a wiring problem or bad starter relay. It's on a slide-out plastic holder behind the center cluster status display. It's easy to recognize by the large diameter yellow wires coming out of it. You should hear this relay clicking even if the starter doesn't work:
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Burning Brakes
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 838
Likes: 2
From: Louisville Ky
you say lights on, "nothing." does not make sense either. more than likely, lights dim when start is applied. if headlights on, you will see them dim off, if the battery is weak.
I agree with the poster that battery may read 12v and not have amps to start the engine, or to pull in the solenoid. recently replaced a 4 yr battery that showed 12v, but had one dead cell. solenoid would click, headlights would dim off.
if start relay won't operate unless more voltage is added to battery, it should not be a defective relay, should it?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 349
Likes: 1
From: Clayton CA
After cleaning all connections, charging over night and charger showing charged. Cleaning key and ignition switch with electrical cleaner and charging another night (different charger), no luck. I replaced the battery. Of course it started right up. I guess the battery shorted with any load. A lesson I can't learn "keep it simple stupid".
Thanks for your time and suggestions. Corvette40 took the sting out of it with his reply.
Thanks for your time and suggestions. Corvette40 took the sting out of it with his reply.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 826
Likes: 3
From: Seabeck WA
Another quick question: Shocks in my '89 are shot. I can replace them with standard Delcos or with Bilsteins, but the Bilsteins are double the price. Are the Bilsteins really worth the extra cost (improved ride and handling) or are they just "status symbols"?