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It's always something! I'm going through that stuff now myself.
I got nice door panels from Corvette America - about $500 each and shipping was prompt.
As for the light, as long as it fits back together I don't think it matters which wire is on top. Maybe someone will correct me on that.
Don't give up, they are old cars and stuff is to be expected.
Thank you Sir, for your encouragement. This is diff for me as I am not a mechanical genius... Wife has decided that after a morning of cursing from the garage (it is off the kitchen) she will "allow" me to order door panels. I hope that the cat and dog do not suffer.........but how did you get "such a deal"? I think from shopping the catalogues that I will have to pay around $900 for two panels, plus I need that insulation that stops noise. By the way, did these beauties ever have doors that closed with a "thunk" rather than a bunch of parts finally settling down to closed?
Hi, Thank you for helping....it is that cap to the right, white and square, it came off and a little white casing with a brass circular hole fell off. I put it together one way--white on top black on bottom and then it did not work....was revesing it and dropped the cyclinder with the brass in the middle I think my cat ate it. We are in the garage and looking.....
$50 for a new module. Phoned Corvette Central and got that price. Old Railroad Man, how'd you get two panels for $500? I think it is gonna cost me $850 +/-
Hate to give bad news, but I was not clear - that was $500 EACH. Sorry! (edit - I think I DID say "each" up there).
I was only going to get one, but when I saw how much better it looked I went ahead and got the driver's side as well.
I've got about 5 projects in progress, but we're going to be gone a week taking the grandchildren back home so it will all be on "hold".
By the way VV - I am far from a mechanical genius either. It's just I've been skinning knuckles, breaking bolts, shorting out wires and making various mistakes for quite a few years. I know when it's time for a break when I plumb run out of cuss words!
Take your time and you will add to your experience with each project you do. The satisfaction once it's all done is worth it, to say nothing of the money you would have to pay a shop or dealer to do stuff. (And they may not be any better at it than you are).
Why does the console switch (it is yellow button) work better than those on each door?
The switches on the door go through the courtesy light module. The door has to be open (at least the module needs to think it is) to open the hatch.
The yellow button in the console is a completely different circuit. As far as I know, the only restriction on that one is that the trans has to be in Park or Neutral to open the hatch.
All of you are really helpful; I think the parts I dropped went into the inaccesible (at least for me) part of the door. So I need a new courtesy light butI plan to do door panels next month.
I put the door panel back on; the only problem besides no courtesy light was/is that the power lock (swear it is #9 wire) in-out rod? is bent and now the piece that has some red on it does not move far enough or easy enough to lock/unlock that door.
I originally bent it taking the panel off. I panel dropped and was held (sort of) by that lock rod......iti is now bent.
How do you get the rod into the plastic "carrier, (with the red bar) back AND get the door panel in place?
Does that take two people?
The switch worked, by the way. That is the good part. To sum it up problems are "travel" of the rod and courtesy light.
Another side issue is the fact that I taped off the courtesy light black and white wires and now the driver's side courtest light is pink??? but the theatre light delay still works.
You can just buy the wiring harness for the courtesy light if you don't need the entire enclosure. This will save you about $30. The little square white cap broke on mine as well. Got this wiring harness, and all is well. http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1984-1989.html
As far as the door panel... If I'm understanding correctly what your problem is... It helps to have a third hand but you can do it yourself. Get the door lock rod through the hole in the door panel. Just pull on it, but don't bend, and then slide the door panel through. Once the door panel is in place then you can slide the plastic (with red strip) door lock lever in place. Sounds like you are trying to put the door panel and plastic lever in at the same time, or even the plastic lever in first, which won't work.
Thank you, lhinaz71, you just saved me $ and effort AND you are correct about my trying to put the door rod into the proper place with the plastic slider.....
Hi,lhinaz71, I followed the link, phoned Eckler's and now have ordered on the net. The only thing that worries me is: is passenger side courtesy light harness diff that the driver's side. The customer service man, Chris, said there was no differentiation......
Do you think he is correct? It seems that you must specify which side when ordering the light itself.
New problem--is it related to: I unplugged the harness module from the passenger door courtesy light because overnight my battery went down.
I had taped the loose wires and put the door back together.
So I put the battery on the charger and took the passenger door apart and as I wrote unplugged the harness for the courtesy light.
Now the engine runs rough and will not idle.....seems to flood. Is this related to the fact that the module is unplugged?????? This a.m. early I had tried to start the engine and discovered very little power--hood lights were barely lighted; dash not at all
BUT could the electric fuel pump (if it has one) have pumped some gas and now it needs to clean out? I let it run a while but still dies at idle.