When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hi guys it's been a while
my 85 4+3 is very hard to get into gear,did go very low on master cyl fluid ,could this be causing the problem,when the engine is off it shifts fine,also I used to get a clacking noise occasionaly when I pressed the cluch but not any more .
It has a centerforce dual friction clutch with only 12k m.
thanks
This is a symptom that the clutch is not being fully depressed. If you had the flywheel turned during clutch replacement, it will throw the geometry off on the linkages between the slave and clutch. You may need to make the "rod" longer. Also, the pedal pivot points can wear out. If you have more than an inch of play with the pedal fully released, it can be a problem and not an easy fix. This can be relieved also by lengthening the rod. This is if the rest of the system is up to snuff and bled properly. If you can take the clutch rod out, depress the clutch pedal gently, and get a rock hard pedal, the hydraulic portion of your system is good to go. Is it especially hard to get into reverse? Edi: To lengthen the rod, I mean fabricate. I did mine with a 8mm ball driver allen wrench that I cut approximately a quarter inch longer.
Last edited by powerpigz-51; Aug 8, 2012 at 03:46 PM.
it just started recently,fluid did go low ,how do u bleed the system?
thanks
Follow the fluid line from the reservoir down to the transmission. I think it's about two feet in length. (Metal and rubber hose). There it is connected and it goes to the slave cylinder, I suspect the slave cylinder to be leaking (causing air to get in). There is a bleeder valve where it mounts to the slave cylinder. You bleed it the same way as you bleed brakes. Two people needed for this. 1. push pedal to floor 2. open bleeder until fluid stops flowing while keeping the pedal fully depressed. 3. tighten bleeder. 4. keep an eye on reservoir level and refill as needed. Use synthetic brake fluid for this. Don't let it completely drain though without refilling. Keep repeating this step until all fluid coming out is perfectly clear and no air bubbles in it. Now you have flushed the entire clutch fluid system. Drive the car and it should feel perfect when shifting. If it starts repeating the hard shifting and will only go in gear when the car is not running again, it's going to be a bad slave cylinder which is not that bad of a job to repair.
Last edited by FOURSPEEDVETTE; Aug 9, 2012 at 10:28 AM.