tire wear
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Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Independence MO
It's not a defective tire, I can tell you that for sure. Cupping on the edges is generally caused by either lack of tire rotation or misalignment. This is worsened if you have loose tie rods and/or ball joints. If you have staggered tires/wheels, obviously rotation is not possible. Worn shocks will generally cause that wear pattern across the whole tire, so I don't think that is your problem either.
Unfortunately, that wear pattern will more than likely stay with that tire throughout the rest of its life no matter what you do. That just gives you a good excuse to beat the crap out of them until they are bald :-)
Unfortunately, that wear pattern will more than likely stay with that tire throughout the rest of its life no matter what you do. That just gives you a good excuse to beat the crap out of them until they are bald :-)
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 703
Likes: 76
From: leesburg fl
St. Jude Donor '12
Thanks guys, My tires were put on the car about 15 months ago. I rotate tires every 3,000 miles so they only have been done once. the car tracks perfect. The car has 34,000 total miles on the clock. I think I will have the shop put it on the computer and see if that shows anything.
Now I do like that idea of having tires that I can go out and burn up. but my budget wont let me do it just yet. also I may change the brand of tire. The tires on the car are YOKOHAMA they were a little pricey.
They are stock 17" front and rear.
As always thanks for the help.
Now I do like that idea of having tires that I can go out and burn up. but my budget wont let me do it just yet. also I may change the brand of tire. The tires on the car are YOKOHAMA they were a little pricey.
They are stock 17" front and rear.
As always thanks for the help.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,381
Likes: 66
From: SF bay area C.A.
C4 of the Year Finalist
It's not a defective tire, I can tell you that for sure. Cupping on the edges is generally caused by either lack of tire rotation or misalignment. This is worsened if you have loose tie rods and/or ball joints. If you have staggered tires/wheels, obviously rotation is not possible. Worn shocks will generally cause that wear pattern across the whole tire, so I don't think that is your problem either.
Unfortunately, that wear pattern will more than likely stay with that tire throughout the rest of its life no matter what you do. That just gives you a good excuse to beat the crap out of them until they are bald :-)
Unfortunately, that wear pattern will more than likely stay with that tire throughout the rest of its life no matter what you do. That just gives you a good excuse to beat the crap out of them until they are bald :-)
Last edited by kimmer; Sep 1, 2012 at 04:16 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 703
Likes: 76
From: leesburg fl
St. Jude Donor '12
My car has FX3 shocks. If I wanted to replace them with a good street shock what should I use? I only use my car on weekends and I sure dont race. I think I will have the FX3 shocks rebuilt as the budget allows.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 703
Likes: 76
From: leesburg fl
St. Jude Donor '12
Well I found a coupon for pep boys 49.99 alignment I called them and they said bring it in. so I did. When they ask the info on the car I told them it was a 90 corvette. Then the coupon was no good. so I gave them a hard time until they said ok we will look at it. This is what the report shows. All front end was good.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3,752
Likes: 190
From: Indiana PA
Dude, that is NOT ok. Get that camber looked at. At the most cross camber should be .5 of a degree TOPS. -1.6 and -.6 in the rear=CRAP. I would lock (torque the rear camber bolts to 186 per FSM) in the rear camber at -.5.
The front at POSTIVE .4 and .8 that is CRAP. Again, pull some shims dial in -.5 at both sides and thank me later for the better tire wear and handling.
If mostly street driven, zero out the camber front and rear. Caster looks good. Toe looks good.
Get a REAL 4 wheel alignment, not a half a**ed toe and go, that is what you got.
Just because its in the green does not mean its good. Just means its within specs. There is a LOT of leeway on the specs. I want it ON not close, ON. I should upload my spec. sheet that I did on my Corvette took me 2 hours start to finish, but it is DEAD on. Anymore and I'm splitting hairs, scratch that....atoms!!!!
The front at POSTIVE .4 and .8 that is CRAP. Again, pull some shims dial in -.5 at both sides and thank me later for the better tire wear and handling.
If mostly street driven, zero out the camber front and rear. Caster looks good. Toe looks good.
Get a REAL 4 wheel alignment, not a half a**ed toe and go, that is what you got.
Just because its in the green does not mean its good. Just means its within specs. There is a LOT of leeway on the specs. I want it ON not close, ON. I should upload my spec. sheet that I did on my Corvette took me 2 hours start to finish, but it is DEAD on. Anymore and I'm splitting hairs, scratch that....atoms!!!!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 703
Likes: 76
From: leesburg fl
St. Jude Donor '12
Thanks for the numbers, I think that I will get it done at the shop at the end of my street. He does custom 4wd stuff and he does a lot of cars with 25in wheels. Now that you gave me some numbers I can send them with the car. i dont have to wait for tires I can thank you now.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 17,697
Likes: 1,666
From: moraga ca
Dude, that is NOT ok. Get that camber looked at. At the most cross camber should be .5 of a degree TOPS. -1.6 and -.6 in the rear=CRAP. I would lock (torque the rear camber bolts to 186 per FSM) in the rear camber at -.5.
The front at POSTIVE .4 and .8 that is CRAP. Again, pull some shims dial in -.5 at both sides and thank me later for the better tire wear and handling.
If mostly street driven, zero out the camber front and rear. Caster looks good. Toe looks good.
Get a REAL 4 wheel alignment, not a half a**ed toe and go, that is what you got.
Just because its in the green does not mean its good. Just means its within specs. There is a LOT of leeway on the specs. I want it ON not close, ON. I should upload my spec. sheet that I did on my Corvette took me 2 hours start to finish, but it is DEAD on. Anymore and I'm splitting hairs, scratch that....atoms!!!!
The front at POSTIVE .4 and .8 that is CRAP. Again, pull some shims dial in -.5 at both sides and thank me later for the better tire wear and handling.
If mostly street driven, zero out the camber front and rear. Caster looks good. Toe looks good.
Get a REAL 4 wheel alignment, not a half a**ed toe and go, that is what you got.
Just because its in the green does not mean its good. Just means its within specs. There is a LOT of leeway on the specs. I want it ON not close, ON. I should upload my spec. sheet that I did on my Corvette took me 2 hours start to finish, but it is DEAD on. Anymore and I'm splitting hairs, scratch that....atoms!!!!
For a street car, I run -.5 camber in front and -.75 in the rear. All they did was play with the toe bacause that is a 5 minute adjustment (if that).
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 703
Likes: 76
From: leesburg fl
St. Jude Donor '12
Its the weekend again, So I play with my car. I went to the shop down the street and he said that he will fix my alignment for 75.00 to 100.00. as long as there is no parts.
I went to firestone and they will do the same thing for the same money. Only at firestone I can get a lifetime as long as I own the car for a 100.00 more.
I told then they dont want to give me a lifetime because if my car hits a bump in the road I will bring it back, They said good.
My question is how often should a C-4 have an alignment? Is it worth the extra 100.00?
Both places said that I could give them the adjustment numbers that I get from you guys on the forum.
The only other thing is I have to give a 3 day notice to the first one and 1 day to the second.
I went to firestone and they will do the same thing for the same money. Only at firestone I can get a lifetime as long as I own the car for a 100.00 more.
I told then they dont want to give me a lifetime because if my car hits a bump in the road I will bring it back, They said good.
My question is how often should a C-4 have an alignment? Is it worth the extra 100.00?
Both places said that I could give them the adjustment numbers that I get from you guys on the forum.
The only other thing is I have to give a 3 day notice to the first one and 1 day to the second.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,381
Likes: 66
From: SF bay area C.A.
C4 of the Year Finalist
Do yourself a favor and stay the hell away from Firestone, have heard nothing but problems with their service. If you decide to go there don't say I did not warn you. Someone told me they did that lifetime alignment deal and it was a kind of scam.
Last edited by kimmer; Sep 7, 2012 at 02:58 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 826
Likes: 3
From: Seabeck WA
Tmi
Geez, guys - more information here than I can handle. Will have to sift through it. What I get from all this is that there IS an alignment problem, and that you should find a good, reputable alignment shop. I sure has h--l agree that does NOT include Firestone or any other of those "quickie fast-in-fast-out" stores.