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I am pretty sure that the H2O pump on my car is failing, Am I right in thinking that if I remove the belt and turn the pump by hand I should be able to feel the bearings going bad? Or is there a better way to determine if it's bad? Also, how tough of a job is this? I do most of the work to all my cars and I have changed water pumps before, Just not on my Vette. Where is the best place to get a new one? How much should I expect to pay?
Is it leaking out of the weep hole ? That would indicate the seal is bad. Price wise I'd say your looking at 40.00 up to 180.00 depending on whether you want a rebuilt one or a hot dog after market one. Installation two six pack job. :cheers:
Randy:
I just finished putting one on my 96 LT4. The bearing sounded and felt good. Unfortunately, the weep hole told the story in that the seal was beginning to leak. Don't fix it and you'll be buying a new Opti as well as a new water pump.
The new GM pump listed at $265 and the dealer sold it to me for $228. Interestingly, it came with a thermostat already installed....something I'd never seen before...although, I'd never paid such big bucks for a pump before either!
As for the procedure, I didn't have to remove the serp belt. The only tough task was reaching the bolt on hte drivers side (there are six in total) that's partially hidden behind the power steering pump. You'll need a universal on the 14mm socket to reach it.
Also, you can skip pulling the knock sensors (to drain the block) by breaking the "heater" hose that connects to the bottom outlet of the pump and use it to drain the block. Finally, cleaning the gasket surfaces is a bear, but a sharp scraper or wood chisel will do the trick. Plan on spending three to four hours. Good luck. Cire96 :)
If it's leaking from the weep hole that's a good sign of problems. I changed the pump on my '88 this winter and it was a time consuming pita in my opinion because you have to take so much stuff off the front of the motor to get to the water pump. The only real problem I had was getting the a/c compressor bracket off the water pump studs because there's a hose that goes through the bracket. The other problem I had was the fact that the haynes manual was wrong a lot and I just had to set it aside and figure it out. I bought a replacement from carquest for about $70 as I recall, it's been working just fine. If your car is just getting hot, also clean out the area in front of the radiator. I was shocked how much garbage was in mine. I had a leak so I just replaced the whole radiator and the temperature difference was outstanding. changing the water pump isn't real difficult, just time consuming.
Unforunately I can't find any leaks anywhere and my coolant level does not seem to be going down at all but I can smell coolant everytime I run the car. I don't smell it in the car though-just outside of it.
If it's leaking from the weep hole that's a good sign of problems. I changed the pump on my '88 this winter and it was a time consuming pita in my opinion because you have to take so much stuff off the front of the motor to get to the water pump. The only real problem I had was getting the a/c compressor bracket off the water pump studs because there's a hose that goes through the bracket. The other problem I had was the fact that the haynes manual was wrong a lot and I just had to set it aside and figure it out. I bought a replacement from carquest for about $70 as I recall, it's been working just fine. If your car is just getting hot, also clean out the area in front of the radiator. I was shocked how much garbage was in mine. I had a leak so I just replaced the whole radiator and the temperature difference was outstanding. changing the water pump isn't real difficult, just time consuming.
Ron
I had a similar experience changing the water pump in my 91. It was a PITA, but I took my time and saved a few bucks doing it myself.
I'm going through the same thing myself at this time. Mine was so bad, I could move the whole shaft up and down by hand and I could hear a bearing type noise. Good luck! :seeya