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Removing battery during storage

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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 01:43 PM
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Default Removing battery during storage

Considering the electronics, any negatives to removing the battery during winter storage when 110V power is not available for a Battery Tender ? Or, better to start periodically? Understand the memory for emissions etc will be erased w/o power ?

Other thoughts ?
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 02:22 PM
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This will be my first winter with my vette and I'm just going to start mine every week or so and take it for a spin around the block when I can to keep everything lubed up!
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 03:10 PM
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Charge first, if you can't then remove battery. If you are going to start it, run it until the coolant and oil have both warmed up to normal operating temp (and run the AC, no matter how cold it is). Going around the block will just cause a bunch of condensation in the exhaust and lead to rust issues.
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Old Oct 2, 2012 | 03:17 PM
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Originally Posted by CTCV
Considering the electronics, any negatives to removing the battery during winter storage when 110V power is not available for a Battery Tender ? Or, better to start periodically? Understand the memory for emissions etc will be erased w/o power ?

Other thoughts ?
The memory is erased w/in 30 seconds or so after you disconnect the battery. The program goes to default tables on next power up, but will relearn your habits and store the data in a few miles (source = from the FSM).

I would put the battery on a Battery Tender where it is you have it stored tho. It will keep it from sulfiding and be fresh whenever you put it back in.

Personally, I can't stand not driving my baby on a sunny, dry weekend day. Where I live there are some blacktops they don't salt except for the intersections. So, about every two weeks or so she gets to stretch her legs a bit. (Even here in no. IL).

P.
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 06:48 AM
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Move south and drive it every day
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 07:03 AM
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This is what I did last year for storage.
I filled up the gas tank to maximum. Meaning when it stopped I filled some more and more until it couldn't go any further. A friend of mine told me that gas tanks tend to corrode if they are exposed ti gas fumes.
Then over inflated the tires a little to prevent them from deforming after standing a couple of months.
And charged the battery and then disconnected it.
I also filled all the fluids to maximum allowed and then checked them before first start up.
Vette stood like that for 8 months and ran great the firs time around.

The only thing was I forgot to deflate the tires the first time I rode it and almost spun out of control in an intersection.
(now I have a checklist )
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by vittal
A friend of mine told me that gas tanks tend to corrode if they are exposed to gas fumes.
It's not the gas fumes that will corrode your tank. If there is not liquid gasoline in there, you will have air. (as well as gas fumes). The air contains water. Through the cycles of warming and cooling, water will condense out of the air, collecting on the bottom of the tank because it's heavier than the gas. When it warms up more moisture can be held by the air, then it cools down again and condenses more.

By keeping the tank full or nearly so you are minimizing the amount of air present, and limiting the amount of moisture. I don't think you have to be extreme about it, the tank does not have to be absolutely full to the very brim. If you fill it at the gas station, drive a short distance home and park it for the winter I think you'll be fine.
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 09:50 AM
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I have a battery disconnect switch and turn it off for long periods, no problem. I would take the battery out for storage. The PO had allowed his battery to lose its charge and unfortuately a dead battery will freeze and rupture. The aid does great damage. My car had suffered from this when I bought it. Take the battery out!
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 10:08 AM
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Another issue about long term storage. It's hard on the car. When I bought my c4 the transmission seals were leaking (which disappointed me) and numerous switches(window and defroster) also were not working. Decided to run or start the car every 10 days or so during the winter. ALL the problems disappeared. Also heard a story about a 2005 c6 owner who had less than 5k on the car spent over $5000 replacing the transmission seals from lack of use. Something to think about
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 08:20 PM
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Truth be told, C4's like to be driven and taken care of. They are attention ******. Show them a little love and they love you back. Seals can and do dry out if they are not driven. I put on 3K a year, its driven enough.

I park mine for 5 months from Nov. to March. I take the battery out, as its cold storage in a barn. No issues, I just take the battery out to the car once a month and start it up and let it run for about a hour or so.

As long as your are hooking the battery up correctly and NOT with the key on or door open,etc...you'll be fine.

Full Gas Tank+Sta-Bil
Inflate tires up to max. specs on sidewall of tire.
Mothballs under car, in engine compartment.
Dryer sheets in car.
Cover tail pipes.
Remove side panel and battery.
Clean, Detail Car.
Cover
and DONE!!
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Old Oct 3, 2012 | 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by auggy
Another issue about long term storage. It's hard on the car.
Decided to run or start the car every 10 days or so during the winter.
Letting the car sit for a few months during the winter is not even close to being considered long term storage.

If you insist on starting the car every 10 days or so, I sure hope your actually getting it out and driving it.
Without getting everything (water, oil, transmission, differential and even exhaust system including mufflers) completely up to normal operating temps, you are doing more harm than good.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by RollaMo-LT4
Letting the car sit for a few months during the winter is not even close to being considered long term storage.

If you insist on starting the car every 10 days or so, I sure hope your actually getting it out and driving it.
Without getting everything (water, oil, transmission, differential and even exhaust system including mufflers) completely up to normal operating temps, you are doing more harm than good.


It is perfectly acceptable to have the battery fully charged and simply disconnect it so there is no drain. A fully charged battery will not be damaged by extreme cold. A battery "tender" that does not completely shut off to zero volts will actually damage the battery. So if you are using a "tender" put a voltmeter on it and verify it actually drops to zero volts when the battery is fully charged.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 07:30 AM
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Originally Posted by AirForceOne!
This will be my first winter with my vette and I'm just going to start mine every week or so and take it for a spin around the block when I can to keep everything lubed up!
This is actually the best idea, a car sitting all winter without being started is not a good idea.. If you pay attention to the posts here on the CF next spring, you will notice how many people come out of winter with car problems. There put away running fine, and in the spring have problems.There are almost always a few nice days during the winter to go for a drive around town just to get the car up to running temperture....WW

Last edited by WW7; Oct 4, 2012 at 07:33 AM.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 93Rubie
Truth be told, C4's like to be driven and taken care of. They are attention ******. Show them a little love and they love you back. Seals can and do dry out if they are not driven. I put on 3K a year, its driven enough.

I park mine for 5 months from Nov. to March. I take the battery out, as its cold storage in a barn. No issues, I just take the battery out to the car once a month and start it up and let it run for about a hour or so.

As long as your are hooking the battery up correctly and NOT with the key on or door open,etc...you'll be fine.

Full Gas Tank+Sta-Bil
Inflate tires up to max. specs on sidewall of tire.
Mothballs under car, in engine compartment.
Dryer sheets in car.
Cover tail pipes.
Remove side panel and battery.
Clean, Detail Car.
Cover
and DONE!!
This is my first winter with the Vette so I appricaite this check list. Mine will either be in my garage or in storage so this plan will work in either situation.
Reply
Old Oct 5, 2012 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by RollaMo-LT4
Letting the car sit for a few months during the winter is not even close to being considered long term storage.

If you insist on starting the car every 10 days or so, I sure hope your actually getting it out and driving it.
Without getting everything (water, oil, transmission, differential and even exhaust system including mufflers) completely up to normal operating temps, you are doing more harm than good.

See Greg, and you didn't even have to...... ahem..... show me
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Sweet 90

See Greg, and you didn't even have to...... ahem..... show me


But yours might be considered "long term" storage.
Isn't it like from September to May?
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RollaMo-LT4


But yours might be considered "long term" storage.
Isn't it like from September to May?
Have you been hanging with a certain Tejas Dawg lately?
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