DIY video for brake pad replacement?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 139
Likes: 3
From: Rockland County NY
DIY video for brake pad replacement?
I don't do much mechanical work on my vet I'm told that brake pad replacement seem pretty straight forward. However since brakes are probably the most important part of the car, it's not something you want to mess up.
I am currently armed with:
original shop manuals (I find their descriptions lacking for the novice)
C4 tech tips - how to replace your front brakes (no pics)
ceramic brake pads
a new low-power impact wrench (250 ft lbs)
the regular tools
But before I jump in, can anyone point to a good video that I could use? It would be nice to visualize this before I start.
Thanks.
I am currently armed with:
original shop manuals (I find their descriptions lacking for the novice)
C4 tech tips - how to replace your front brakes (no pics)
ceramic brake pads
a new low-power impact wrench (250 ft lbs)
the regular tools
But before I jump in, can anyone point to a good video that I could use? It would be nice to visualize this before I start.
Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Riverside County Southern California
Co-winner 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
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St. Jude Donor '09 thru '20
To replace the 96 brakes it's a straight forward, and easy task. You could use a big C-Clamp, the late C4 front brakes are "unique". I have the repair manual, and the instructions in it guided me the first time I did a brake job on my 92 Vette in 1997.
Don't forget the washer, and don't loose the small retainer clip.
Don't forget the washer, and don't loose the small retainer clip.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,492
Likes: 61
From: New Jersey
I don't know about a video but see if you can get the Haynes repair manual as it has a very good pictorial for the front and rear brakes showing the replacement process. It doesn't come near the FSM (I have both) but it has helped me a couple of times paying for itself.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,492
Likes: 61
From: New Jersey
Oh and you may want to wait a bit and get new pins and e clips for the front as the pins wear over time and the clips can fly off to unknown places when you remove them. Right now most places are out of them but I think you can still get them from Rockauto.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 917
Likes: 25
From: College Station Tx
Definitely get new pins, or new clips at the least. It is a really easy job (assuming it is similar to my 95). I spent more time looking for a clip that flew off into nowhere land only to find it was broken, than actually replacing the pads (once I read the manual and figured out how to do it the easy way).
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 139
Likes: 3
From: Rockland County NY
Ok, I left this 'easy' job for Thanksgiving morning. I'll spare the group all the little things that went wrong but now I have the left rear tire off and the FSM manual says I should be able to replace the pads without removing/loosening the parking brake spring but there is no room to get a wrench or a socket onto the upper guide pin with the spring in the way. Somethings wrong with the manual or me!
Also, I have a 4 in C clamp but that isn't nearly large enough to fit over the caliper to push the piston in.
This is why I wanted to see a video. Suggestions????
Also, I have a 4 in C clamp but that isn't nearly large enough to fit over the caliper to push the piston in.
This is why I wanted to see a video. Suggestions????
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Michael S. Palmer
Southern Piedmont Area
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 573
Likes: 19
From: North Carolina
Originally Posted by barry96
The FSM manual says I should be able to replace the pads without removing/loosening the parking brake spring but there is no room to get a wrench or a socket onto the upper guide pin with the spring in the way.
The FSM is correct.
I replaced the brakes on my '96 without removing the parking brake spring.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 139
Likes: 3
From: Rockland County NY
I was able to swing the caliper down without using the C clamp to push the piston back.
2 more questions for the board:
1. According to the FSM, I was supposed to use the C clamp to push the piston back before I swung the caliper off. As I mentioned above, that would require something like an 8 inch clamp to get around the whole caliper and I don't see how pushing the outer brake moves the piston back. Can someone clarify this?
2.Am I going to have similar issues on the front brake?
TIA
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,492
Likes: 61
From: New Jersey
1. I usually use the C clamp on the caliper after I remove it by using the clamp to push in the old inside pad (the one on the piston).
2. The front brakes are easier.
Did you get the Haynes manual? It may have helped even though you have the FSM. A lot of the things you do are not going to have a video. But don't get all worked up about it. If this is going to cause you this much aggravation just wait till you try to do a tuneup. Sometimes you just have to jump in and start. Even the best wrenches on here have problems and make mistakes at one time or another.
The only way you will learn on this car is by doing. The more you do the easier it gets over time. I learned how to do brakes back in the day working in a gas station and started off on drum brakes. Compared to them disc brakes are a breeze.
2. The front brakes are easier.
Did you get the Haynes manual? It may have helped even though you have the FSM. A lot of the things you do are not going to have a video. But don't get all worked up about it. If this is going to cause you this much aggravation just wait till you try to do a tuneup. Sometimes you just have to jump in and start. Even the best wrenches on here have problems and make mistakes at one time or another.
The only way you will learn on this car is by doing. The more you do the easier it gets over time. I learned how to do brakes back in the day working in a gas station and started off on drum brakes. Compared to them disc brakes are a breeze.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 9,226
Likes: 9
From: Irvine Ca
listen, there are two ways to get to the caliper, remove the sliding pins and leave the riser or remove the large bolts that hold the riser.
If you are just after the pads, you can take a large screwdriver or pry bar and pry the shoes backwards pushing the piston back before you loosen anything.
So....pry pads backwards making sure not to mare or scratch the rotor face.....then take two bolts loose, remove only the top one, rotate caliper open, slide the old pads out, insert new pads, making sure the retainer springs are in place, rotate the caliper back in, reinsert the one bolt and tighten both down.....
Should take about 10 minutes per wheel.
Every time I see or hear about that C-clamp, I just shake my head......
If you are just after the pads, you can take a large screwdriver or pry bar and pry the shoes backwards pushing the piston back before you loosen anything.
So....pry pads backwards making sure not to mare or scratch the rotor face.....then take two bolts loose, remove only the top one, rotate caliper open, slide the old pads out, insert new pads, making sure the retainer springs are in place, rotate the caliper back in, reinsert the one bolt and tighten both down.....
Should take about 10 minutes per wheel.
Every time I see or hear about that C-clamp, I just shake my head......
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2001
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Using the C-clamp before removing the caliper pins allows the pads to have lots of clearance when swinging the caliper up.
The rotor can have a "lip" to hang the pad up.
I use an 8" c-clamp for front and rear.
Clamp, run the clamp down to bottom the piston
For the rears IIRC its the lower bolt (furthest from the parking brake connection)
swing caliper up, replace pads (watch the springs on the pads)
swing caliper down, make sure the springs don't go in the slot!
Tighten the bolt you took out.
For the fronts, pull the e-clip - I used a really big flat head to get it started and needle nose pliers to pull it off so I don't lose it.
Put the new pads in, seat them in the top of the caliper bracket
push down and put the pin in
use the big screwdriver or needle nose pliers to get the e-clip back on
every other pad change I'll use new pin/e-clip - then again I'm changing the fronts 3 - 4 times a year and the rears once or twice. I got rid of the e-bake cable (race car)
The rotor can have a "lip" to hang the pad up.
I use an 8" c-clamp for front and rear.
Clamp, run the clamp down to bottom the piston
For the rears IIRC its the lower bolt (furthest from the parking brake connection)
swing caliper up, replace pads (watch the springs on the pads)
swing caliper down, make sure the springs don't go in the slot!
Tighten the bolt you took out.
For the fronts, pull the e-clip - I used a really big flat head to get it started and needle nose pliers to pull it off so I don't lose it.
Put the new pads in, seat them in the top of the caliper bracket
push down and put the pin in
use the big screwdriver or needle nose pliers to get the e-clip back on
every other pad change I'll use new pin/e-clip - then again I'm changing the fronts 3 - 4 times a year and the rears once or twice. I got rid of the e-bake cable (race car)
