Need some ideas
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Need some ideas
Was driving my 95 this afternoon and the car died while I was driving on the interstate. Pulled to the side of the road, tried to restart it, would turn over but not start. Didn't make any noise when died. One minute I was cruising at 70 the next I'm just slowing down to a stop. No noise. I'm thinking fuel because when I try to start it it gets fire at first but won't start and just turns over after. Any ideas or guesses as to what's going on. Figured tommorw I'd try some starter fluid to see if I'm just not getting fuel
Racer
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 283
Likes: 5
It is most likely the notorious corrosion on the fuel sending unit in your gas tank. First, are you sure you have gas in your car? Don't go by the gauge on your dash. When the fuel sending unit is corroded, it gives a false signal and your gas gauge will always show that there is gas in the tank even when empty, (trust me, the same thing happened to me). My car actually died on the freeway lane in the middle of Monday afternoon rush hour. Called highway patrol and they work with a California vehicle assistance company that comes to you and gives you a free gallon of gas. I believe there's a write-up on how to clean the unit. Hope this helps, Ed.
Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2012
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Kinda thinking it's gonna be the filter car sat up about three months not running, fixed the original problem( vats ) now this. Only owned the car about three weeks. Just really hoping it doesn't turn out to be anything major Ty all for your replys and keep them coming you never know
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 10,777
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From: Wichita Ks
If your fuel system checks out OK the first thing I would look at is the ICM. That is very characteristic of the way they go out. Mine did very much the same thing as yours, driving down the highway and it just died like I had turned off the key. It tried to start a few times but then just died and would only trun over but no spark. If it is the ICM it's a easy fix.
Last edited by mrmtrtrnd; Nov 25, 2012 at 08:11 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 4,234
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Kinda thinking it's gonna be the filter car sat up about three months not running, fixed the original problem( vats ) now this. Only owned the car about three weeks. Just really hoping it doesn't turn out to be anything major Ty all for your replys and keep them coming you never know
Fuel pumps will often fail after the car sits for a long period. Could be the ignition control module (ICM) as well, or even the coil, but ICMs frequently experience heat-related symptoms.
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Thread Starter
6th Gear
Joined: Nov 2012
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Day 2
Got the car home about an hour ago, (towed) hit it with the starter fluid and nothing cars not getting fire guessing next step is the distributar after I charge the battery tonight I'll pull the codes tommorow.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
When my fuel pump went, it came with some indications. Simple as it was, it acted like it ran out of gas, which, in essence is what happened. So if just died silently it is probably not fuel related, probably not.
Check grounds, at the bellhousing, and ecm wires.
My first guess is the ignition control module. The heat sink on the back can wear off and then the ICM burns out. When this happens the coil doesn't work. Really easy to check, just take it to an Auto Parts store and they can test it. First, though, get your hands on a spark tester. Check for spark at the coil, at the opti connection, then at the plug.
No spark at coil= icm/coil
spark at coil, no spark at opti connection=coil wire
spark at coil,opti no spark at plugs = opti
It wouldn't hurt to check the fuel pressure as well. Just because a squirt of starter fluid didn't get spark doesn't neccesarily mean this isn't the trouble.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2004
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From: Hellinois
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
The last thing you need to do is spray starting fluid in the engine, you've got a big plenum and if it pools a bit then happens to find a source of ignition, BOOM! The car doesn't run so do the basic tests to find out which it is, lack of fuel or spark, then go from there.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
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From: Park City Utah
But before all that, Midnight85 is right; STEP #1: DETERMINE IF THERE IS SPARK AND FUEL.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
You said in your other thread that you would be pulling the battery. If you pull the battery out, you won't have any codes to pull, today. Pulling battery for more than 10 seconds clears codes.
Fixed. The signal, the "now, now, now!" originates IN the primary side of the distributor, if that doesn't work, you've got nothing, nowhere. No signal for the ECM, for the coil, no spark at the coil, and no fuel injection either. Ya got no crank signal for then engine (ECM) to even "know" that the engine is turning over. So no spark at coil doesn't simply "= icm/coil"... it means that a proper diagnostic process needs to be followed for the primary side of the ignition system.
But before all that, Midnight85 is right; STEP #1: DETERMINE IF THERE IS SPARK AND FUEL.
Fixed. The signal, the "now, now, now!" originates IN the primary side of the distributor, if that doesn't work, you've got nothing, nowhere. No signal for the ECM, for the coil, no spark at the coil, and no fuel injection either. Ya got no crank signal for then engine (ECM) to even "know" that the engine is turning over. So no spark at coil doesn't simply "= icm/coil"... it means that a proper diagnostic process needs to be followed for the primary side of the ignition system.
But before all that, Midnight85 is right; STEP #1: DETERMINE IF THERE IS SPARK AND FUEL.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 21,543
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From: Park City Utah
I agree; I'd rather have it be the cheaper component too. In MY case, it wasn't:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580563535-post30.html
I'm glad that I didn't waste money on the ICM or any other parts.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580563535-post30.html
I'm glad that I didn't waste money on the ICM or any other parts.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
I agree; I'd rather have it be the cheaper component too. In MY case, it wasn't:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580563535-post30.html
I'm glad that I didn't waste money on the ICM or any other parts.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1580563535-post30.html
I'm glad that I didn't waste money on the ICM or any other parts.
I'm just saying that one should do the diagnostic, the FSM even checks everything before and after the opti to rule everything else out first. I have had my scares, and it seems like every time one of these LTx cars hiccups, the first thing to get blamed is the opti. About a month ago, I drove in the rain and she missed really bad. Even got the low res code and thought, "Oh heck, my opti's gone". But I pulled the opti pigtail, and it had gotten some moisture in the connector, along with some coolant from long past TB bypass leak. Cleaned it, new pigtail, and she runs well. Oh, original opti w/ 146K miles, new cap and rotor about 60K ago. (knocking on wood as I type)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 10,777
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From: Wichita Ks
