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I've been trying to get my camber right for sometime now. Today when I turned the cambolt to add positive camber so that I would be around 0, the little plate contacted the little lip that its supposed to push against to bring the strut arm back, and then it just started bending like a cheap aluminum can. So now my little side walls are all bent out. it did this on both sides.
what are my options here? I still have excessive amounts of camber.
I was looking at this. the square inserts would still sit firmly in the little side walls and making adjustments would be super easy.
Did you have the rear of the car off the ground and the nut opposite the bolt loosened a little when you adjusted the camber? The strut should have no resistance and should move easily if the answer to the above questions are yes.
Did you have the rear of the car off the ground and the nut opposite the bolt loosened a little when you adjusted the camber? The strut should have no resistance and should move easily if the answer to the above questions are yes.
yup on a two pole. it was loosened somewhat, how loose are we talking? the rear plate where the nut was wasnt turning at all. my camber looks a little better, i think my main problem is splintering spring. but still the cracket bending is no bueno.
Vette Brakes & Products has replaceable camber rods with threaded heimjoint ends that will solve your problem. They are not expensive and will not slip out of adjusment. I put them on my car and have not worried about those stupid cam bolts ever slipping out of adjustment again. I got the whole rear kit and got a discount . It's a better deal than buying all the pieces seperate.
I use them on my car, but I suppose that shouldn't be a surprise.
The camber rod kits have been VERY popular this year and do make adjustments much easier. I find they keep their settings quite well too, even under harsh track conditions.
I use them on my car, but I suppose that shouldn't be a surprise.
The camber rod kits have been VERY popular this year and do make adjustments much easier. I find they keep their settings quite well too, even under harsh track conditions.
Ive got Tom's stuff (camber, toe, and trailing arms) on my 93.
Great stuff. Adjustments are simple. I can adjust for track and then quickly adjust back to avoid street tire wear out (ie. wear out the inside of the rear tires).
Also improved the ride a bit too (which was a surprise by eliminating the rubber bushings in place of heim joints - though I think some of the road irregularities were actually getting transmitted through the bushings. The heim joints forces all the road forces to go through the spring/ shocks (instead of some through the bushing/frame) resulting in better ride.)
I also have DRM relocated trailing arm and camber brackets.
Yes. By twisting the center body one direction or the other the link will shorten or lengthen, controlling the camber. When in place, just tighten the 1/4" screws on either end and you're done. There are no jam nuts.
Yes. By twisting the center body one direction or the other the link will shorten or lengthen, controlling the camber. When in place, just tighten the 1/4" screws on either end and you're done. There are no jam nuts.
definetly next on my list after tracking down some new springs