crazy sighting
, that there was no thermostat in my car so im wondering what kind of damage could this have caused over the 8 or so years we have owned it 6 years of non op.

Seriously, I saw that you put one in and it's running hotter (which actually makes sense). Check your radiator when it gets hot; if the radiator is hot everywhere, you water pump is working.

Seriously, I saw that you put one in and it's running hotter (which actually makes sense). Check your radiator when it gets hot; if the radiator is hot everywhere, you water pump is working.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Your radiator can be COLD, and you can still hear boiling, and have "boiling over" in the over flow tank from heat in the ENGINE. We need to confirm your water pump, by confirming that water is circulating. This can be identified by observing a relatively even temperature though out the entire cooling system, once up to temp. If you engine is 200* and your radiator is 85*F, water is not circulating.
Your radiator can be COLD, and you can still hear boiling, and have "boiling over" in the over flow tank from heat in the ENGINE. We need to confirm your water pump, by confirming that water is circulating. This can be identified by observing a relatively even temperature though out the entire cooling system, once up to temp. If you engine is 200* and your radiator is 85*F, water is not circulating.
There isn't much to your cooling system. A radiator and fan, hoses, thermostat, water pump, heater core and hoses, and the water jacket in the engine. That's it. Ensure each is working OK.
If the coolant is circulating at proper speed, the radiator is unobstructed internally and externally, and sufficient air is flowing through the radiator, it won't overheat. Period. Well....with a couple of exceptions.
If the cooling system is 100% and it's running hot, check for three things; A vacuum leak, exhaust obstruction, and retarded ignition timing.
My old 84 (with a manual fan switch) would idle all day long in heavy traffic at 195 degrees in 110 degree ambient temps. Click off the manual switch, and it would cycle between 228 and 213. Yours should do the same.
If you want us to help you, help us. Give us some specific info and more info on the conditions under which it over heats, please.

Idle? Cruising? Highway?
Is the fan kicking on? Coolant circulating? Heater working? System holding pressure? What is base timing set at? How many inches of vacuum at what elevation?
Throw us a bone.
cruising and the fan stays on all the time
You said you replaced the radiator, so I'm assuming there's no debris on the front of it. Once you put a 50/50 mix of coolant in, ensure that it is circulating. Once you know it's circulating, ensure that the system is building pressure and holding it. Also, check your hoses and ensure they aren't collapsing, particularly the bottom hose.
You said you replaced the radiator, so I'm assuming there's no debris on the front of it. Once you put a 50/50 mix of coolant in, ensure that it is circulating. Once you know it's circulating, ensure that the system is building pressure and holding it. Also, check your hoses and ensure they aren't collapsing, particularly the bottom hose.
Engine heats up coolant in block, thermostat opens allowing hot coolant to flow to radiator and "cold" coolant to flow into block. Thermostat closes briefly. During this moment the radiator is removing heat from the "hot" coolant the the whole cycle repeats. Without the thermostat the flow is never interrupted which reduces radiator efficiency and thus the ability to cool (remove heat) from the coolant. Now on most days this might be fine but under extreem use all heat is transfered throughout the cooling system without interruption for heat removal resulting in overheating. Not as quickly as a closed thermostat but it will overheat nonetheless.
Hope this makes a little sense.
Dave
















