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Completely STUMPED!

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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 11:32 PM
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Default Completely STUMPED!

Man...being car-less for a week kind of sucks. All because the '91 refuses to start! I don't get it!
The car was running just fine last week, it's my daily driver. Sometimes it does this weird security system lock on the engine or something where it won't let me start the car, but I just unhook the battery and plug it back in and it works.
This time it doesn't. I turn the key and no click, no nothing!
There are the normal lights on the dash and I just got a new battery yesterday...still nothing.

Any suggestions...?? THANKS GUYS!

-If it is a VATS problem, how do I know?
-I just changed out my heating core last month, maybe that did something?
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Old Feb 21, 2013 | 11:45 PM
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Auto or Manual?
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 07:07 AM
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Automatic
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by VforVETTE
I turn the key and no click, no nothing!
-If it is a VATS problem, how do I know?
Hot wire the starter direct to the battery and see if it fires up ( key on )
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/...tarter-motor-1

If it cranks but does not fire then you have a VATS problem
Have you got a spare key to try, the resistor pellet wears with age and does not make good connection with the contacts in the key barrel ( which also wear out )
http://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

If it fires up when the starter jumped then it is not VATS but a starter circuit problem
Starter enable relay or the P/N switch at base of the shifter would be 1st things to check
The relay and switch are easily bypassed by jumpering the connector to confirm if faulty
Could also be a faulty Ign switch

If you have no cranking at all then likely the starter is faulty

Last edited by vetteoz; Feb 22, 2013 at 07:53 AM.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 12:14 PM
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I had a problem like that with my 87, till I tried a new key
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 02:33 PM
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Sometimes you can clean the key off with alcohol then slide it in and out of the switch a few times to clean the crud off the switch.
Probably won't work but who knows?
I had an 87 that did the same thing. I had the FSM and followed the testing procedure to find out I had a bad VATS module in the dash. Got a good used one from Vette2Vette and had no trouble since then.
I have a 91 now and have the FSM for that too. If you shoot me a PM I can copy the "no start" page(s) and e-mail them to you.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by vetteoz
Hot wire the starter direct to the battery and see if it fires up ( key on )
http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/gm/...tarter-motor-1

If it cranks but does not fire then you have a VATS problem
Have you got a spare key to try, the resistor pellet wears with age and does not make good connection with the contacts in the key barrel ( which also wear out )
http://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

If it fires up when the starter jumped then it is not VATS but a starter circuit problem
Starter enable relay or the P/N switch at base of the shifter would be 1st things to check
The relay and switch are easily bypassed by jumpering the connector to confirm if faulty
Could also be a faulty Ign switch

If you have no cranking at all then likely the starter is faulty
Bingo.

Follow that, and all will be revealed.
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Old Feb 22, 2013 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by VforVETTE
Man...being car-less for a week kind of sucks. All because the '91 refuses to start! I don't get it!
The car was running just fine last week, it's my daily driver. Sometimes it does this weird security system lock on the engine or something where it won't let me start the car, but I just unhook the battery and plug it back in and it works.
This time it doesn't. I turn the key and no click, no nothing!
There are the normal lights on the dash and I just got a new battery yesterday...still nothing.

Any suggestions...?? THANKS GUYS!

-If it is a VATS problem, how do I know?
-I just changed out my heating core last month, maybe that did something?
So simple. Mine intermittently does the same thing. Open the passenger door and go to your fuse box on the right side of the dash in front of the passenger seat. Check the Security fuse [15 amp] (upper left corner of the fuse box on my '89). If it's burned out, that's your problem; replace it with another 15 amp fuse. If not, then go through the steps others have mentioned: key-cleaning, new key, bypass VATS by running a jumper directly from the battery to the starter, etc. But DO THIS FIRST!
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 05:55 AM
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My 91 did the same thing. Used vats bypass and no trouble for 6 years now. VATS SUCKS!
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 06:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 91 corvette
. Used vats bypass and no trouble for 6 years now.
Unfortunately won't help if you have a failure in the starter circuit
OP needs to identify where his actual problems lies
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 91 corvette
My 91 did the same thing. Used vats bypass and no trouble for 6 years now. VATS SUCKS!
Please explain how a VATS bypass works - or maybe I'll have to start another thread.
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 12:56 PM
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the more I read about the VATS, the happier I am that I have an 85; not that it is the best of the C4 clan, I understand; plenty of upgrades with the later years. But with all the other common issues these old cars experience, I am glad that is not on my "what if" lists. But from what I understand, it can be programmed in the ECM to bypass the VATS system.....It seems the likelihood of VATS failing is far superior to our $5K cars being stolen....

Also, I like fact I have worry free anti-lock brake issues! The car stops fine w/o it with a well maintained brake system; but then again I don't autocross this thing : and that god-forsaken third brake light There is just no way to make the third brake light attractive IMHO....

sorry to get sidetracked.....slow news day
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 01:45 PM
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6SPEED = '86 hater.

:-)
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ckwhite
Please explain how a VATS bypass works - or maybe I'll have to start another thread.
All the VATS bypas does is install a resistor into the same circuit that goes to the resistor pellet in the key anyway. So "VATS Bypass" only works if the problem is in the harness running up the column, or the contacts in the tumbler/key. All easy things to diagnose and fix.

If you have other issues, (as Vetteoz accurately stated), a "VATS bypass won't fix anything.
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Old Feb 23, 2013 | 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom400CFI
All the VATS bypas does is install a resistor into the same circuit that goes to the resistor pellet in the key anyway. So "VATS Bypass" only works if the problem is in the harness running up the column, or the contacts in the tumbler/key. All easy things to diagnose and fix.

If you have other issues, (as Vetteoz accurately stated), a "VATS bypass won't fix anything.
Very true, however, it seems the majority of Vats problems I've read about have had to do with either the key or the ignition lock cylinder. Both of which would obviously be remedied by a bypass module. Although as you said, both of problems are also very easy to diagnose and repair.
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