I have installed a new master cylinder, new front left caliper and new front left brake hose. The front left caliper is still locking up after about 5 miles of driving. All the other brakes work just fine.

The "Service ASR" and "Service ABS" lights are still on.

Any ideas anyone???

 

Before you go any further try pulling the codes to see what exactly is wrong with the abs and asr. To learn how to pull the codes go here:
http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2011...trouble-codes/

If you don't have it already, get the FSM (Factory service manual) for your year - it will be invaluable for the diagnostics and repair procedures.

Otherwise with ABS and ASR, you are just throwing money at the problems and hoping it fixes it - a costly, time consuming and frustrating way to do it.

 

I'm not the expert, but if it was me I'd:
1. Check fluid level in reservoir, if good
2. Re-bleed the left front caliper; make sure you bleed the master cylinder with it. Do not push the brake pedal all the way down, that cause damage to the inner seals/o-Rings with-in the master cylinder. If you are sure, that you have bled all the air out of the master cylinder, you may need to go deeper into the system.

Q. Did replace all calipers or just the one? If you replaced all calipers did you bleed your brakes in the correct method? Example RR then LR then RF last LF. The reason I ask, there is a component to the braking ASR, ABS located behind the driver’s seat. Take a look. When bleeding you have to make sure you have pushed enough fluid through the system to ensure you got all the air out.

My point, maybe you need to re-bleed the system starting at the RR, and pump lots of fluid. Catch it in a jar, and poor it back into the reservoir. I have found that “speed” bleeders work great. You can catch the fluid and push oil without having to stop. Again, do not push your brake pedal all the way down; this may cause damage to the master cylinder’s inner seals.

I have a 95 with ABS, ASR, and have rebuilt the calipers three times (I track mine, I want better than good seals), replaced the master cylinder and have never had ABS, ASR light come when I'm done.

Hope this helps, the best is, there are a lot of good gear heads that hang out here. You are bound to good advice.

 

See great advice, all the time

 

You're certainly in the right place to fix a problem, there are a lot of knowledgeable people on here.

I just upgraded the front brakes on my '92 from the 12in rotors to the 13in J55 rotors. I also bought speed bleeders, I cannot emphasize this enough, GET THEM. They make bleeding your brakes incredibly easy.

I too have had my ABS/ASR lights on for quite a long time. After installing the new brakes and flushing the system with new Valvoline DOT 3/4 fluid (highly recommended by other on here), the lights turned off. Now, they only come on under hard braking, and go away when I turn the car off. I suspect low brake fluid is the problem. Check your levels!

When you bleed the brakes, put an inch-thick block of wood under the brake pedal so you don't press it down all the way. You could damage the master cylinder. And VERY importantly, make sure to keep adding brake fluid as you bleed!



EDIT: You prompted me to go find out if low brake fluid was indeed the problem. I thought I had filled mine all the way up, but I added more in and it appears that there was room for a few more ounces. I did a few stops hard enough to lock up the seatbelt, the ABS and ASR lights are gone! Fill up your fluid so it nearly touches the cap and let me know if that works for you

 

Even a crappy old Haynes manual tells you to never reuse brake fluid.

 

It probably would not hurt your car if you don't autocross/race it, but since a 32 oz bottle of DOT 3/4 Valvoline is only $8 at Autozone, might as well get new stuff. One 32oz bottle should be enough, but I bought one of the 12oz ones as well, just in case.

 

completely, let me clearify. When I do mine, I fisrt pump enough fluid through until it is clear. Most cetainly, do not ever put burnt, blacken, discolored fluid back into the system.

My point...thou not clear...was to push enough fluid through the system, to ensure new clear fluid coes out the bleeder. If re-bleeding is needed, or you choose to bleed twice (that is what I do), that you can "catch the NEW Fluid in a jar" and back in to the resivour.

 

I kinda figured you were speaking from the stand point of a track car that gets brake service once or more a year . For a more typical service interval, even flushing a system until it appears to be clear probably yields fluid that has some contaminants in it. Add in the factors of less than optimal flushing equipment, less experience with the process, the fact that this work might be taking place out in the driveway with all kinds of crap blowing around, and you have lots of reasons to not reuse brake fluid, even if it looks clean. Brake fluid is hygroscopic also, meaning it draws moisture out of the air. It's just a good idea to use new fluid that has been exposed to humidity as little as possible and to put the cap back on the bottle between pours.

 

Hey everyone, thanks a BUNCH for all the great wisdom on here.

It appears that the brake caliper I bought was accidently a passenger side one. I thought it was a different brand, but it was actually upside after I installed it.

In my experience, when something is obviously wrong, you fix that and then problem solved.


Having a front passenger side caliper installed on the front driver side rotor, fits. But If this is why it's locking up after a few miles, then can someone explain the mechanics behind this??

THANKS!

 

I don't really know but an educated guess would be that the brake line was being stretched and bent in a way that caused it to close off and lock up the brake caliper. Otherwise wiser minds will have to chime in.