It's a bit of a story but a couple of weeks ago a friend came over with his '96 'vert. The decklid would not unlock on one side and the local dealer wasn't much help saying that the actuators were no longer available. I offered to help, then I began an exhaustive internet search to try to locate a new one. None of the major parts dealers could help out, but then I finally managed to find one NOS unit outside the US. I probably paid a little too much for it, but there wasn't much choice. When it arrived, I installed it, and it worked perfectly. Although I only asked my buddy to pay for the part and shipping, he was so happy that he gleefully overpaid me for my pains. I was a little embarrassed, after all, this is only recreation for me.
Anyway, I kept the old unit for further inspection, dismantling, and reassembly, and found that I was able to get it to work like new once again.
From reading old threads, I know that there are a number of Corvette owners with similar problems with the actuators, and I'm willing to freely share my new knowledge with them if they would like to PM me. If they don't want to bother trying to DIY, I'm willing to do the the rebuilds for much less than the cost of buying a used unit.
Happy motoring!

 

Why don't you just share the solution?? That's what these forums are supposed to be for....I thought.

 

I'm happy to share the solution! Just a lot of writing! Most solenoid actuators simply seize because they aren't used often enough. On the decklid unit I fixed, I found it easy to work on since it was out of the car, but I guess you might try to fix one without removing it.
Looking at the unit where the cable enters the body there is a black plastic double eared clamp that locks into slots in the metal body. These 2 clamps must be gently pried out of the slots, both at the same time, and the assembly will practically fly apart in your hands. Don't break these plastic parts, I don't know where you can replace these things if you do. (This is one of the reasons it is easier to do this with the actuator removed from the car.) You will likely find that the internal sliding part of the unit is seized in the cylinder. You will need to loosen it with whatever means you can find, penetrating oil, WD-40, gentle pressure, etc. Use some care in loosening the slide. If you remove it and aren't too careful, there is a small spring on the other end that will want to hide itself somewhere on your garage floor. Once you have the unit freed up, simply clean up the pieces, apply some light lube, and reassemble everything. Now you should have a perfectly working actuator once more! Contact me if you need further assistance.

 

I replaced mine a few months ago.Ebay had a brand new one for $125. That was the only one that I could find

 

Awesome post! That's what makes these forums killer. That is great info...and thanks for taking the time to post it all!

 

The door button doesnt work but the one in the ceter console does work. Do you think it s the button that is the problem??

 

I would start with the button as my first suspect.

 

X2. Seems pretty self evident on that one.

 

I assume this is the same setup as the coupe's hatch. I have a coupe, so I don't have detailed knowledge of how the convertible hatch works.

The hatch door switches get power from the interior light delay module. Apparently GM wanted to make sure the car was stopped when you pop the hatch. The door must be open to release the hatch (that's pretty obvious, as it's impossible to get to the hatch switches with the door closed). The switch(es) in the doors that control the interior lights must pop out when the door is open. It is VERY common for the plungers to get stuck in the switches and not come out. Make sure your interior lights come on when the door is opened.

The switch in the console only works with the trans in Park or Neutral. This applies to cars with automatics. Manual trans cars must have the emergency brake on to open the hatch with the console switch.

 

Or the car has to be turned off. Hatch will open w/ebrake off, engine off.

 

Maybe they changed things in later years, but my '86 shop manual shows that the emergency brake has to be on with a manual trans -- page 8A-134-1.

 

That makes sense. Mine is a '92 which has a CCM controlling things. Once the engine is off, any of the three switches will work. Good call.

EDIT: Well now I'm confused. I got curious and looked it up on Mitchell. Schematic shows just what you said; Power (hot at all times)->through primary side of hatch relay->console button->parking brake switch->ground.

So, I walked out to my '92, reached in the open window, checked that the park brake was off, then opened the console, hit the button and the hatch opened. (?)

 

This thread is interesting as soon I'll be doing the inner/outer window sweeps. While the door panels are off I intend to lube the latches/locks and get the door hatch buttons working again...thanks...

 

I didn't realise the decklid release was operated by solenoids until mine wouldn't work. I panicked for a few seconds until I realised I had the battery isolator on!! LOL what a jackass!