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Seems if you loosen it up, things go together easier then tighten up all the bolts once it's all assembled.
So does tightening up the bracket always assure that the piston is retracted properly ? A couple of systems I've worked on have the screw-in type adjusters someone mentioned previously (most notably Subarus). I doubt if tightening the caliper bracket would retract those types of pistons. AFAIR, my '84 just needed a loosened bleeder valve and a C-clamp to re-seat the piston since there was no screw-in adjuster (though it's been a while since I did it and my memory isn't what it used to be ).
For me at least, it's usually something won't slip on or align if the mounts are tight. Loosening them up gives you a little fudge room to get the caliper with the new pads on the rotor easier. You want the piston retracted prior to attempting reassembly, just let's you wiggle things as needed to get it back together without the knuckle crunching you might have otherwise.
Kind of like getting all the bolts in and started when reassembling something rather than put one in and tighten it up and then going onto the next bolt.
Just seems to make it go easier for me and I had to put in new brakes or pulled them out to check them on 4 different vehicles last year (2 Fords, a Dodge and the Vette) and it was something I did on all of them and it saved me a little cussing. Just made it go a little easier from where I stood.
When you compress a piston in a caliper, open the bleeder screw and let the fluid drin back through it. Do not let it drain back through the system as the garbage in the caliper will get into some other component and ruin it. Cannot tell you how many master cylinders I have seen die two weeks after the brake job.
The biggest contributor to that follow on failure can be the 'on car' bleed process, not contamination. If the master cylinder piston seals go into "unfamiliar territory" at the end of the master cylinder piston bore (via a full pedal stroke to the floorboard with the bleeders open) the piston seals are damaged by the rough untraveled section of the bore, and will fail shortly thereafter. I never let the master cylinder piston go past it's normal travel section during bleeding.
The biggest contributor to that follow on failure can be the 'on car' bleed process, not contamination. If the master cylinder piston seals go into "unfamiliar territory" at the end of the master cylinder piston bore (via a full pedal stroke to the floorboard with the bleeders open) the piston seals are damaged by the rough untraveled section of the bore, and will fail shortly thereafter. I never let the master cylinder piston go past it's normal travel section during bleeding.
I'm new to Corvettes and haven't seen any mention of this...is there any reason a Mityvac brake bleeding tool shouldn't be used to purge the system and replace all the brake fluid in the system, when you replace the pads and rotors? I had Porsches for 25 years and had the opportunity to drive the cars at speed several times a year. Once a year I replaced the brake fluid just because it's hydroscopic.
I'm new to Corvettes and haven't seen any mention of this...is there any reason a Mityvac brake bleeding tool shouldn't be used to purge the system and replace all the brake fluid in the system, when you replace the pads and rotors? I had Porsches for 25 years and had the opportunity to drive the cars at speed several times a year. Once a year I replaced the brake fluid just because it's hydroscopic.
I use a Mityvac to suck clean fluid thru the lines, never had a problem
The brake pads for the rear of an 88 onwards vette are in two pairs, one set is slightly thinner than the other, the thinner pad should sit on the inner side of the caliper, with the thicker set to the outside.
This had me stuck getting the caliper back on until I noticed the difference.
I use a Mityvac to suck clean fluid thru the lines, never had a problem
Thanks for your reply. I just tried it on my '96 CE and it seemed to work just fine. I'm glad I did the old fluid was lite coffee color.
I haven't driven the car yet. It's still on jack stands. I'm replacing the distributor, wires and plugs. I'm having a REALLY tough time getting the crankshaft balancer off.