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I've been thinking about the "pogo" effect I get in my 91 and I'm wondering if anyone here is using Koni's and if so are they better at rebound damping that my Bilsteins.
I've been thinking about the "pogo" effect I get in my 91 and I'm wondering if anyone here is using Koni's and if so are they better at rebound damping that my Bilsteins.
I have koni coil overs on my 85, they are not as user friendly as some more modern shock absorbers that have adjuster tabs on the shocks that are easy to get to. My Koni's need to be removed from the car and the coil removed, then depress the shaft fully then when it engages the adjuster. I can turn it up to 4 turns depending how much dampening i want, i went + half a turn she is great on a race track but a pig on roads.
To find if a dime is heads or tails the 4 turns would be ideal.
The plus is you can easily get koni shocks rebuilt or valving changed.
I already told you in another thread that I don't think you can eliminate the driver perception of "pogo" effect (I call it the "whooptie-whoop").
BUT, I have Koni Yellow's and they do have a wide range of adjustment on the rebound only, up to a point where the rebound is very, tight -too tight for the street, IMO. Especially with stock, later springs.
They ARE a PITA to adjust in the rear; fronts you can adjust in about 10 seconds each side....rear's you have to either:
*Jack car, remove top end of shocks from frame, adjust, reinstall, lower car
OR
* Drill a hole vertically through the frame and then you can access the adjustor from inside the car.
I have koni coil overs on my 85, they are not as user friendly as some more modern shock absorbers that have adjuster tabs on the shocks that are easy to get to. My Koni's need to be removed from the car and the coil removed, then depress the shaft fully then when it engages the adjuster. I can turn it up to 4 turns depending how much dampening i want, i went + half a turn she is great on a race track but a pig on roads.
To find if a dime is heads or tails the 4 turns would be ideal.
The plus is you can easily get koni shocks rebuilt or valving changed.
Thanks for the info. I guess I should have clarified that I'm looking at just regular Koni's not coil overs though.
I already told you in another thread that I don't think you can eliminate the driver perception of "pogo" effect (I call it the "whooptie-whoop").
BUT, I have Koni Yellow's and they do have a wide range of adjustment on the rebound only, up to a point where the rebound is very, tight -too tight for the street, IMO. Especially with stock, later springs.
They ARE a PITA to adjust in the rear; fronts you can adjust in about 10 seconds each side....rear's you have to either:
*Jack car, remove top end of shocks from frame, adjust, reinstall, lower car
OR
* Drill a hole vertically through the frame and then you can access the adjustor from inside the car.
Thanks Tom. I didn't remember such a response, but great info!
I assume you're talking about the bounce you get when you go over expansion joints in cement roads that are spaced the same distance apart. Somebody in my Corvette club called it "porpoising", which I thought was very descriptive.
I assume you're talking about the bounce you get when you go over expansion joints in cement roads that are spaced the same distance apart. Somebody in my Corvette club called it "porpoising", which I thought was very descriptive.
No, it's more of a problem when hitting a sharp change. There's an ugly one on an overpass close to me that will lift me up off the seat slightly at 40 mph. I've smacked my head on the roof a couple of times on that bump.
I have Koni's as well, they were fairly recent additions to the car prior to me purchasing it. So I don't really have a comparison, but I think the ride is very rough. Then again, 84s are known for that too. But "plush" will never be used to describe my car's ride quality. Down right bone jarring at times...
I feel that shock valving can help (and something to improve compliance of the rear such as the Banski kit), I'm positive that the orientation of the driver is the largest factor. I first noticed this when I went from my '86 Camaro, to my '06, C6. Oddly, I feel that my C4 (with Koni's on stock suspension) exhibits this less than my C6 did. Regardless, the cars do it, you're duff is sitting about 2' forward of the centerline of the rear axle, and there is no way, that isn't a huge factor in your perception.
In the f-bod, you're butt is much closer to the centerline of the front and rear axles. Another example is riding a dirt bike; where do you sit? You don't sit your duff way back on the rear fender...it would be like riding a bucking bronco! You sit with your crotch right up on the gas tank, and the bike rocks beneath you over bumps.
Another area where I feel that the rear seating position of the 'Vette hurts driver perception, is when you go into oversteer. The further aft you are sitting in in a vehicle, the more lateral displacement your body experiences during oversteering maneuvers. You're closer to the "end of the pendulum", so to speak. If you can imagine driving from a seating location between the front wheels, any oversteer would be nothing more than the sensation of rotating -there would be no lateral displacement of your body. Same thing applies in the vertical plane as well which is what you were asking about here.
In your further explanation about the bad overpass, I think Koni's would help that situation, but due to the seating location, I feel that you'll always get some KITA over bumps in a 'Vette.
In your further explanation about the bad overpass, I think Koni's would help that situation, but due to the seating location, I feel that you'll always get some KITA over bumps in a 'Vette.
Yep, that is what I'm experiencing. I noticed today driving up to Santa Rosa that there are several of these KITA bumps on the drive up. Guess I'll start pricing some rear Koni's.