brake job
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
brake job
1996 CE VERT LT1
I'm planning on doing a brake job this weekend (Front and Rear). I have purchased new Duralast Rotors and Duralast Ceramic pads from Autozone. I have also purchased new pin and bolt kits for the front and the rear. At this time I do not intend to bleed the brake system. For those of you who have done this before, is there any tricks that may be useful to know. I do have a Haynes Manual and it appears that the rear emergency brake needs to be disconnected to perform the rears. I also understand that the right front and left front discs are different but both rear discs are the same.
Other than at me for going to Autozone, does anybody have any info on tricks?
I'm planning on doing a brake job this weekend (Front and Rear). I have purchased new Duralast Rotors and Duralast Ceramic pads from Autozone. I have also purchased new pin and bolt kits for the front and the rear. At this time I do not intend to bleed the brake system. For those of you who have done this before, is there any tricks that may be useful to know. I do have a Haynes Manual and it appears that the rear emergency brake needs to be disconnected to perform the rears. I also understand that the right front and left front discs are different but both rear discs are the same.
Other than at me for going to Autozone, does anybody have any info on tricks?
Heel & Toe
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Cincinnati Ohio
It is pretty straight forward. My 96 still had the original front rotors I had to beat them off with a 3lbs sledge hammer. On the front just match up the rotors right and left. The difference is the cooling fins in the middle of the rotor. I coated the hub with cooper anti seize to prevent the rotor from rusting to it again. I am getting ready to do my back brakes soon. This is also a good time to clean some suspension parts! 
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,376
Likes: 111
From: Cherokee National Forest TN
Remove fluid from the MC before reseating the caliper pistons.
Rear caliper pistons can be reseated while on the car with a large C clamp.
C clamp screw adjuster locates on the outside of the outside pad. Fixed portion of clamp to back of caliper. Tighten clamp.
Clean the hubs before new rotor install. If you have access to a dial indicator index the rotors to the hubs. Shoot for .004 thou or less run out.
Since you are changing rotors: Rear calipers can be removed without disconnecting the E bake. Unbolt caliper bracket from the upright & remove the entire unit.
Rear caliper pistons can be reseated while on the car with a large C clamp.
C clamp screw adjuster locates on the outside of the outside pad. Fixed portion of clamp to back of caliper. Tighten clamp.
Clean the hubs before new rotor install. If you have access to a dial indicator index the rotors to the hubs. Shoot for .004 thou or less run out.
Since you are changing rotors: Rear calipers can be removed without disconnecting the E bake. Unbolt caliper bracket from the upright & remove the entire unit.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 34,988
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From: Riverside County Southern California
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No need to disconnect the E-brake for rear brake rotors or pads. It would be a good time to clean, and paint all caliper brackets, and calipers. If you decide to paint the calipers, then the e-brake cable must be unhooked. It's not a difficult task, basic tool will get it done.
Life Starts at 120 mph
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Upstate New York
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Take good pictures of the assembled rear brake caliper. Keep in mind without disconnecting the E-brake in can be difficult getting the torex screw back in. I've done it, and if I can do it.....well any one can.
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Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Compound in the Grove, Ga.
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If you paint the rear caliper as PLRX did here is a good idea that a buddy of mine did with the rear.. After painting he filed the ridges and cleared.
Last edited by FASTAZU; Jul 17, 2013 at 06:46 PM.
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I replaced the brakes and rotors on all four corners on my CE last year and it was a piece of cake. I used a little WD-40 the night before on the caliper bracket bolts and they came out pretty easy. Also, I used some BLUE Loctite on the threads when re-installing said bolts and some brake grease on the slide pin just to insure quiet operation. Whatever you do don't let the calipers hang by the brake line, tie it up with a piece of wire(I used a coat hanger), and remove the brake fluid fill cap before pressing the piston back into the caliper. Have fun.
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