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I've searched for the answer and haven't found anything and this may be a stupid question. I'm in the market for a grey or blue tinted acrylic top, but before I buy one I want to make sure that they still stiffen up the car like the "standard" targa tops do. Also if there is any real difference between a factory/refurbished acrylic targa and a cheaper reproductions like the ones sold on Ecklers.
The reason I want an acrylic top is I have heard you can gain more head room over the painted targas that have a headliner. The increased head room would let me wear a helmet in the car when I go racing. But that increased head room would be all for nothing if the body of the car flexes more with the tinted acrylic top. In which case I would be forced into installing a non adjustable racing seat in the car and that just wouldn't be fun to drive on the street with the '84 z51 suspension.
What kind of racing are you doing? Drag strip of autoX? If 1/4 mile what are your times?
The engine build isn't quite done yet... well it was, but I decided to put a blower on it. Not a huge blower since I'm running at 10.5:1 CR, but I should be hitting 5 to 7 psi. I will have it set up for road course and I might hit the drag strip every now and then come next season. When the engine build is done, which should be by the end of September, I will post dyno results. 1/4 mile times will most likely be posted before I hit the road courses with it, since it should be ready to hit a drag strip well before its ready to go around a track.
When I order the blower I will start a build thread, until then everything is just plans and goals.
As mentioned, the frame is what provides the stiffness. I have a bronze acrylic top on my '87 autocross car and I never remove the top. There is about 2" additional for helmet clearance, but if you are intending to use an aftermarket seat, try to fit the seat as low as possible. Easier to add more foam to the seat bottom if needed.
A solid top works too as you can simply remove the headliner to gain headroom clearance. A solid top also helps to keep heat out of the car when it's parked in the sun.
My acrylic top is showing signs of very fine cracks and that's most likely due to the flexing from autocross events. But no serious cracks.
Also, there are 3 different top brackets for the windshield header. Make sure you get the 84 to early-86 top. That way you won't have to mess with changing the attaching components.
As mentioned, the frame is what provides the stiffness. I have a bronze acrylic top on my '87 autocross car and I never remove the top. There is about 2" additional for helmet clearance, but if you are intending to use an aftermarket seat, try to fit the seat as low as possible. Easier to add more foam to the seat bottom if needed.
A solid top works too as you can simply remove the headliner to gain headroom clearance. A solid top also helps to keep heat out of the car when it's parked in the sun.
My acrylic top is showing signs of very fine cracks and that's most likely due to the flexing from autocross events. But no serious cracks.
Also, there are 3 different top brackets for the windshield header. Make sure you get the 84 to early-86 top. That way you won't have to mess with changing the attaching components.
Thanks! I figured it was all in the frame but I wasn't sure and the last thing I wanted was to find myself driving a wet noodle with high horsepower around a track.