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1. The guy took pics of it and decided to sell when it was at the mechanic. He sounds like he must be fairly knowledgeable if he want's to restore a mid 60's Galaxy. He must have decided the car will cost too much to repair and take too much time for what it's worth.
2. Anyone that says "new parts to numerous to mention" is just lazy, and I don't want to buy a lazy persons car. What else did he neglect because it was just too difficult. Seriously, if you are selling a decent car, take the time to point out all of the good and bad.... in detail. If you can't muster that, then I'll pass on your car.
Trust me, I understand the Corvette itch. Just don't let it cloud your judgement.
http://www.vettefacts.com/C4/1986.aspx
this site will tell you about vette numbers.
The good news is the color of that car is sorta , kinda, almost , rare. 693 made that color that year. Late in 86, Checy started putting Alum, heads on the engines...cant really tell from the pics which ones this one has. My 86 has the same bummed up weather stripping on the drivers side windshield post..check under there for rot..and weather stripping can get into your wallet. It has the solid targa top, nothing wrong with that but if you want the plastic see thru ones, be prepared to pay around 8oo bucks and up..plus a 150 dollar core charge.. If you go look at it, make SURE the headlights work..up and down.I paid 2,300 for mine, this one looks in better shape. Driveable/road ready vettes usually can't be found under 2,500. Would I buy it? maybe. Its a better deal than the last one you listed.
That a bump on the nose? Make sure the radio antanea works..thats maybe a 100 to replace. If you want to check out its numbers, an easy place to find them is under the arm rest. Make him an offer than less he is asking, you can always go up. Doesn't look like the Bose radio it came with either. Make sure the AC works and the wipers.
Last edited by ghoastrider1; Aug 27, 2013 at 12:04 PM.
If it runs and drives good it could be worth the money. There isn't enough photos to tell how bad the interior and how much body work it needs. Those two items can run into BIG bucks so its hard to say for sure if thats a good deal or not. If its a good driver and you can do all the work and find used parts maybe. The thing is it could easily cost more in the long run rather than just buying a nicer car. The best advice I've seen here is buy the best car you can afford.
I bought a 90 vert for $1600 that had been sitting for 5 years with 93k on the clock. Doing a full restore/rebuild and to get it running I had to replace the fuel pump and sender and have the injectors cleaned as well as drain 7 gallons of really nasty gas.
My antenna didnt work but I got a Mast kit for it for $17.50 and it works like a dream now. Doing a full restore inclusing a 383 and stage 3 tranny. I have a very tedious budget that is greatly detailed and with no additional surprises I am looking at about a $26k investment. The motor and tranny are ready to go in and those two things alone set me back about $9500 combined inclusing the new injectors, First Intake and maintenance items that all needed to be done.
93k isnt a bunch of miles in 23 years but 23 years will take its toll on anything. Could I cut corners, sure and probably get out for about $16k if I didnt plan on repainting and upgrading brakes,wheels and tires as well as replacing the 4 FX3 shocks. This car is a project for me and my son who is 13 and he will drive this when he turns 16 so the car will be perfect. Now if I can just teach him to take care of it as easliy as he is learning to work on it.
Your passion will drive the expense so make your choices wisely or you will wind up like the guy that listed the car.
Pretty sure those are not aluminum heads. As I understand the aluminum heads have the bolts down the center of the valve cover vs around the perimeter.
Pretty sure those are not aluminum heads. As I understand the aluminum heads have the bolts down the center of the valve cover vs around the perimeter.
Something like this:
slapping myself on the forehead. You, sir, are right on the money. Jeeze, cant believe I let that get by me.. I have a 86 with Alum heads and also a set of vortecs sitting on my spare engine out in the garage.
Unless you're a hardcore wrenchhound, first time C4 owners should always buy the nicest car they can possibly afford. Nothing sours the first time experience than winding up with a piece of crap that you never get to enjoy or spend a fortune on and it still isn't reliable enough to go on a reasonably long road trip.
The black one has some issues but they've been noted. The white one may have 40K or 400K on it and no real idea for sure what it's issues might be. Looks like both you and the white one are in Kansas though so it would be closer. No way to really tell for sure without more info.
Unless you're a hardcore wrenchhound, first time C4 owners should always buy the nicest car they can possibly afford. ....Buy a good car. Save up if you have to.
Very good advice.
Most fixer uppers are going to cost you more in the long run. Unless you know what you're doing and really want to spend the time doing it.
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Please take someone with you who has experienced the heartbreak and expense of bringing a beater C4 back to life.
Friz is right. Get an extra job and save up enough money to buy one that does not need much work or needs NO work.