I need help
I just bought a 86 Convertible, manual shift (it's got a Tremec 5 speed in it now, but it started and drove fine from NM). Drove it 1300 miles home and after less than 100 miles here the clutch slave cylinder started leaking bad (no clutch pedal at all). I had a local mechanic put in both a clutch and slave cylinder, and now I get no starter. Clutch depressed, transmission in neutral, turn the key on and to start, you get the dash and radio but no starter. Lights etc work just fine, don't dim when key turned to start. I've been under the dash, everything looks to be hooked up as it should from what I can tell. Only unhooked connection is to the light in the panel that covers up that area, panel is off so it's unhooked at the moment.

Here's the background: He changed out the 2 cylinders but left the hood up for 2 days and the battery went dead. Changed and bleed the cylinder and the battery was charged for 2 days so it's up.

Key on run - Fasten seatbelt light comes on and goes out, Svc engine soon light is on
Key to Start - Brake light comes on plus anti lock light comes on while in start position. No starter, not even a peep out of it.

When the door is open, the security light flashes continuously, goes out when the door is closed. I've even locked the door and opened it with the key (Just in case)

I've checked all the fuses in the right side panel - all are good
I've checked the clutch switch with an ohm meter, looks like it's ok when the clutch is pressed.
I'm not sure if there's voltage through the wires going to the clutch switch, I had a cheap meter and not sure what it's supposed to be. Looked like there might have been a little change but hard to tell.
Dash readout shows 11.8v when in the run setting on the key. I jumpered a good battery, still showed 11.8v.
I unhooked the negative lead to the battery for about 5 minutes, no change.
I had a new ignition key made at the Chevy Garage, no change.
I ran a lead from a set of jumper cables from a ground point on the engine to the negative on the battery - no change.
I'm going to order a VATS bypass now that I have the key info, but still groping for where the plug is on the column.

I didn't even have the car long enough to know what lights normally show in run and on start, so I don't know if what I'm seeing is normal or not.

Logic says it should be somewhere around the clutch pedal but so far it's eluding him and me.
Any ideas or suggestions on where to proceed. Any and all help is appreciated.

 

The mech probably knocked the clutch safety switch at the top of the clutch pedal out of adjustment when he was doing the master.(common )
Pull the plug off the switch , jumper the 2 terminals in the connector and see if it cranks over.
If so re-adjust the switch position so it makes contact when the pedal is depressed.

If it doesn't crank you have other problems with the starter circuit

 

I thought I checked it with an ohm meter while operating the pedal but I'll double check it tomorrow. Thanks for the thought, keeps me honest.
Just realized I made a typo initially, he changed the clutch master and slave cylinders, not the clutch and slave if that makes a difference.

 

I thought I'd jumpered that wire with a paperclip the other day but wasn't sure. I tried jumpering the clutch neutral switch wire with a good wire and spade lugs, no luck. Back to square one.

 

But did you confirm you have 12V there at one terminal when key in the START position. ?
If no power there then need to check output on yellow wire from the Ign switch.
If power at switch then need to check at the starter enable relay located behind the DIC.
You can disconnect and jumper the starter relay connector permanently to take it out of operation.
VATS will still cut off the fuel to prevent theft
If you have power at / through the relay need to confirm 12V at the starter solenoid

 

I have power through the clutch switch and I've jumpered that. I also have a VAT's bypass from Eckler's on order. I'm going to wait for that to come in before tearing anything further apart. Hard to get time after work in addition to everything else I have to do. Just a pain to try and work on it at the other garage.

Appreciate the info, still at it when I can, though I'd like to get some driving time in on it this fall yet.

 

Only fools the VATS module into thinking you have the correct key.

If the starter relay is faulty it will have no effect , hence my suggestion to bypass it completely.
Also can have the VATS module fail (rare but happens ) on the starter component , same results with the bypass.

Easiest check is to jump the starter solenoid ( out of gear ,PB on ) with the key on and see if it starts.
If it does ,then the problem is not VATS related, because VATS takes out the fuel injectors as well.
You are looking for a fault on the starter wiring circuit

If it doesn't fire up , you have a VATS problem , which could be a key reading problem which the bypass will fix
or the module itself is faulty which the bypass won't help

 

Got to put this on hold for a few days, family matters. Once I get back I'm going to get back at it again. Unfortunately not enough hours in the day to do it all

I started tracing wires last night and will pick it up once I'm back.

 

Just thought of something potentially stupid - does the 86 have the seatbelt interlock in it? I haven't been buckeling it up while doing my testing and just remembered there was one in my 74 Malibu (my last GM stick). I didn't even remember this till I was on my way to work and won't have a chance to check it out till monday.

 

Had a chance to spend a little time on it the other day, still no starter. But I did find what I think is a add-on alarm buried in it. Unfortunately I can't get under it to trace it out and confirm that so I've asked my mechanic to check it out and if it is to uninstall it. Just a smaller black box with a wire to ground, another to the hot on the battery and 2 wires I can't trace without getting under it. Can't do that due to an old back injury and besides that, my mechanic has multiple lifts. Just a matter of getting some of his time to do it (He has a business so it's 'when time is available')

There's no name or visible identification on the box and it's held in with plastic wire ties.

Got my fingers crossed that's it.

 

Decided I'm going to have my mechanic work on it and get the starter issue fixed. I figured out what's in that add-on box, it's not a 2d alarm, rather it's a converter for the transmission to speedometer adapter. Mine had a Tremec trans swap in the past so that's to drive the speedometer.

I gave it my best shot but I want to drive it yet this fall and without a lift it's hard to check many things. Everything I've looked at looks right so it's got to be either the starter or the wiring to the starter.

Got my fingers crossed it's reasonable in cost.

 

My C5 would not start and the lights and everything looked good. It turned out to be the battery. It had enough volts to turn on lights, headlights etc, radio, power windows but not enough to turn over the starter. Before you get hit w/a big bill from the shop (the mechanic will work for days to find a electrical problem) have him double check the battery. Replace it w/a new one (or a shop battery that is known to be good) just to test. You said it died and the mechanic charged it, maybe it has a weak cell. my .02 G/L

 

Found the problem on the 'no starter' and it was dumb on my part.
The switch I bypassed on the clutch pedal must be for disengaging the cruise control, not the starter. Bypassed the right one and it started right up

Anyone else that does this, if you bypass the switch, make sure you're bypassing the correct one. The one you see easily is not the one that works the starter, it's apparently the cruise disengage. The clutch switch is way up near the top.

I have one more issue on the clutch but I'll start a new thread because it's about the clutch fully disengaging properly now.

Thanks again for all the help.

 

I did mention that fact when I replied to your initial post on the 4th

 

Yes you did and it looked like it was up there when you have issues bending and trying to get under the dash. It's a lot harder due to being t-boned by a joy riding teenager a few years back.