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In a non performance application, is an aftermarket type of fuel pressure regulator any more accurate than a stock type? I'm thinking part throttle metering ability, if the tracking ability of an aftermarket regulator would follow the vacuum signal and respond/ regulate fuel any better than a stock type.
Fuel pressure regulators are basically a spring, a diaphram and a disk that seals against the fuel rail base. The only difference with an adjustable regulator is the ability to increase or decrease spring pressure.
I used an adjustable FPR on my stock 92 Vert. At that time Corvette Fever magazine published an article to read the stock pressure, and to rise that pressure by 2 psi max. I did the 2 psi, and there was a noticeable gain on performance.
Currently my Vettes are tuned to use the stock FPR.
My big concern with regulators is the different pressures used by GM through the years. 85 at 39 psi, and 90 and up at 44 and up. When replacing the diaphragm a fuel pressure reading should be taken and recorded. If the new one does not have the same pressure get an adjustable cap and reset to factory setting. Speed density may respond to 1 lb increase, and mass air cars like 2.
I think it may be time to replace mine. I like to monitor the instant mileage display and lately I've noticed that after accelerating up to hwy speed, it doesn't pop up above the teens like it used to. If I back off the throttle for a second to build up vacuum, it pops right up there and tends to settle back a lot higher than if I didn't help it recover. Then when I set the cruise control I get good gas mileage on the highway. If I don't do that, the instant mileage reading stays down around 12 to 15mpg until I go down hill a little and the cruise backs off the throttle a bit before leveling off again. I keep track of mileage at fill-ups and lately it's been significantly down. Kind of makes me think the regulator is sticking or wearing out, because I haven't found a vacuum leak and everything else is good with plugs, wires Opti and O2's. So if I do replace it, I'm wondering if an aftermarket adjustable will be of any better quality or control ability than another stock one?
My 85 had only around 32 psi fuel pressure (85 has 24 lb injectors that may be the reason) 38 psi seems standard on later TPI's on what forum members have mentioned.
I remember there was a big mid range to top end improvement going to 45 psi, but the downside is a very rich idle (when the car was standard).
The one thing a TPI engine needs is long tube headers, that knocked almost a second of my quarter mile time. 14.4 standard
Returned a week later with headers and cold air intake got that down to 13.6 some new leads and a tune advanced timing 13.4.
My 85 had only around 32 psi fuel pressure (85 has 24 lb injectors that may be the reason) 38 psi seems standard on later TPI's on what forum members have mentioned.
I remember there was a big mid range to top end improvement going to 45 psi, but the downside is a very rich idle (when the car was standard).
The one thing a TPI engine needs is long tube headers, that knocked almost a second of my quarter mile time. 14.4 standard
Returned a week later with headers and cold air intake got that down to 13.6 some new leads and a tune advanced timing 13.4.
I must assume 32 lbs was measured with vacuum applied at idle? The 85 used the 17085050 fuelrail with Bosch 280-150-223 that flow 248 cc, or 23.8 lbs. rated at 3 bar (43.5 psi) http://www.witchhunter.com/flowdatapix/b0280150223.jpg
My point is that fuel pressure should always be measured with no vacuum attached, otherwise it is a false reading. Zero vacuum is how the flowrate is calculated to enter into the programming.
TPiS created this chart some years back, and I've found it to be close, but not always accurate.
I ran my 89 at, 40-41psi. More and restarts became a problem, made you wait a minute. They extra 2 psi did add some hp you could feel.
I've never seen an explanation of how this works. It seems to me the O2 sensor would detect the extra fuel and the ECM would back off on the injector pulse width and the net result would be zero change.
I've never seen an explanation of how this works. It seems to me the O2 sensor would detect the extra fuel and the ECM would back off on the injector pulse width and the net result would be zero change.
Anybody have a link to an article on this?
Cliff, the fuel trim, or blm does not function with thr narrowband o2 at WOT. The added fuel created by the added pressure is used in WOT where the O2 capabilities are not accurate. Basically, the ecm defaults to open loop.
Cliff, the fuel trim, or blm does not function with thr narrowband o2 at WOT.
That's not strictly true. You are in open loop at WOT but the ECM still uses the BLM table as the basis for calculating the injector pulse width.
For BLMs, the main difference between open loop and closed loop is that the ECM does not UPDATE the BLM table in open loop (because the O2 sensor reading is ignored and the INT is not calculated).
That's not strictly true. You are in open loop at WOT but the ECM still uses the BLM table as the basis for calculating the injector pulse width.
For BLMs, the main difference between open loop and closed loop is that the ECM does not UPDATE the BLM table in open loop (because the O2 sensor reading is ignored and the INT is not calculated).
Disagree completely, The O2 defaults to the VE tables + these tables:
The proof will be in reading the datalogs and modifying the power enrichment table based on observed O2 results. If one tunes to .860 millivolts from the O2 it will be as close to 12.5 AFR or Lean best torque as posssible. There is no BLM, or INT at WOT whatsoever read in to the PE tables.
Cliff,
It takes C students to teach A & B students was one of the things I learned when obtaining my California Teaching Credential.
From what I've been told increasing the fuel pressure is for a better spray pattern. The ECM will just shorten the pulse width to compensate. The higher pressure will make for a finer spray and quicker response to changes. There is no reason under stock engines to increase beyond the recommended pressures. I replaced my regulator with two different new ones and both were on the low side so I bought an adjustable one and set it for factory max. Car is much more responsive to throttle changes now. The new one is an Areomotive. Solid billet, stainless spring, and direct replacement. $20.00 cheaper then the Holley and better construction. Here is a pic.