Clutch Bleeding Tip
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,427
Likes: 604
From: Minneapolis Mn
Clutch Bleeding Tip
I've had a couple of threads here, one referencing after having the clutch master and slave cylinder replaced, my mechanic had a heck of a time bleeding the air and it wasn't all out. 86 Convertible is my car if it makes a difference.
Well I was looking around and found this on youtube:
I watched it and thought it couldn't be that simple, but what the heck. $5 for a bleeder kit from Harbor Freight (part #37201 was the one I tried) and I had at it last night. I did get a little air out the first time then no more. Figured there had to be more, but tried the car tonight after about sitting 24 hours. The clutch seems rock solid and fully disengages as far as I can tell.
Hadn't had that since the master and slave were replaced so I haven't been driving since I got it home after purchasing it last month. 
If you're having trouble getting all the air out of the clutch lines, $5 and about 15 minutes is what it took me once I had the kit to get the remaining air out. I did it just like shown in the youtube and it sure looks like it worked.
I'm just hoping to return the favor for all the help I've gotten here so far.
Paul
Well I was looking around and found this on youtube:
I watched it and thought it couldn't be that simple, but what the heck. $5 for a bleeder kit from Harbor Freight (part #37201 was the one I tried) and I had at it last night. I did get a little air out the first time then no more. Figured there had to be more, but tried the car tonight after about sitting 24 hours. The clutch seems rock solid and fully disengages as far as I can tell.
Hadn't had that since the master and slave were replaced so I haven't been driving since I got it home after purchasing it last month. If you're having trouble getting all the air out of the clutch lines, $5 and about 15 minutes is what it took me once I had the kit to get the remaining air out. I did it just like shown in the youtube and it sure looks like it worked.
I'm just hoping to return the favor for all the help I've gotten here so far.
Paul
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,556
Likes: 13
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 4,427
Likes: 604
From: Minneapolis Mn
Mechanic did that
Nghia (shop owner) used both the Chevy FSM instructions plus the ones he has on his online service to bleed the clutch. What he described matched as you described yet it still had air. I believe him both for what he told me they did for quite some time and I've known and used his shop for 15-20 years so I believe him.
Too many people state they're having problems bleeding air and I believe that with the inverted curve in the clutch line between the master and slave on mine. It was a poor design in the first place and problematic when air gets in there IMO.
Too many people state they're having problems bleeding air and I believe that with the inverted curve in the clutch line between the master and slave on mine. It was a poor design in the first place and problematic when air gets in there IMO.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 16,837
Likes: 337
From: Database Error Indiana
Not sure if it relates but I recently did a clutch in an S10. I read some place to take a string and tie the clutch pedal up to the steering wheel so it cant get pushed down. Keeps the line from the master to the slave from getting air. I did this and bleeding was no problem at all.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 993
Likes: 3
From: Iowa
If you pressure bleed the system you generally won't have any problems. Most of the shops I know of have gone to this for brakes and clutch systems. Of course the tool (Phoenix Bleeder) isn't cheap but it sure does come in handy. Just my .02
