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I have, a few times, replaced the diode bank and in all cases it corrected the problem. This was in the 70's and I have not tried this recently. I also remember when a friend started working at the Ford dealership and when I stopped in for a short visit I noticed the work benches were full of bad rotors. My diode replacements were all Chevy. If you can get a megger to test rotor and stator to verify insulation I would try the diodes.
When I had my C4, the diode seems to go bad, and since I chromed my alternator I just kept changing them. They seem to go bad every 20,000 miles for some reason on my 89.
Your alternator should be or is likely the CS130 and the rectifier is sometimes replaced "singularly" but I don't know why if you were going to the aggravation of removal and disassembly anyway you wouldn't do the brushes/holder assembly. Bearings maybe pass on but if it's original and 78K and you do your own services why not? There are premium rectifiers out there and there's also very inexpensive product. Which? Sounds like maybe you're wanting to "cheap-out"!
The 70's product that "net_coma" mentions were SI series and had bridge/rectifiers and diode-triode by description and a general repair consisted of "both" plus whatever.
"cheap out" is an insult to someone on Social Security and a pension. i`ll be saving 80bucks over the "new" alternator from the `zone. premium diode set is 55bucks.
does anyone know if its just the diode that goes bad? at 78k miles i don`t hear bearing noise.
Many things can cause an alternator to fail.. A single Diode will not not cause an total failure, there are two Diodes per "Y" leg, one + and, one - for a total of 6. But if you loose one Diode per leg, then you will see a total failure, or a bad Stator, regulator, brush's, etc.. basically the alternator need to be disasembled and tested..
When I had my C4, the diode seems to go bad, and since I chromed my alternator I just kept changing them. They seem to go bad every 20,000 miles for some reason on my 89.
This makes sense.. Chrome acts like a thermal blanket, it doesn't dissapate heat nearly as well as an aluminum surface..
"cheap out" is an insult to someone on Social Security and a pension. i`ll be saving 80bucks over the "new" alternator from the `zone. premium diode set is 55bucks.
And if you carry the alternator to a local shop you could likely have it checked and repaired for the $55 that you mention. The last fellow I suggested this to because his was an OE accomplished the repair from a local shop for $40. There's nothing that beats the experience of a local shop. The local shop needs to be an "alternator - starter" repair facility not just someone that says they do electrical repairs. There are shops in some areas that have been in business 40+ years but other than large fleets and maybe some municipalities the "locals" don't seem to patronize.
In your hand the alternator is just a CS130 - Corvette means nothing!
only problem is, repair shops are not just around the corner. the old carburator/ generator repair shops are gone.
Just maybe more difficult to find. If you check with a large fleet in the area or maybe a municipality they might offer up a shop that they use. The shops your looking for don't advertise, they're as busy as they want or need to be. Where are you located?
I have fixed two alternators myself (and replaced a few).
The first one was on a '78 Corvette I used to own. I fixed it by replacing the voltage regulator module.
The second one was the one that's on my '86 now. It's a lifetime unit from O'Reilly. After ( had it for about 5 years it became intermittent. Sometimes it would just stop charging for no apparent reason. A minute later it would go back to working. I took it apart, cleaned everything, and put it back together. It's been fine for a year or so since then.
pulled alternator today and it appears to be a recon unit. gonna have to pay for a "new" one from the `zone. at least i`ll have a "lifetime" waranty to hold them to.
pulled alternator today and it appears to be a recon unit. gonna have to pay for a "new" one from the `zone. at least i`ll have a "lifetime" waranty to hold them to.
Have them or someone else check it certainly first. Are there any identifying part numbers on what you removed? If someone has replaced with an alternator of more amperage then you may want to either do the rectifier OR whatever is wrong or at least make sure you replace it with a similar amp unit.
there is the remains of a sticker that was on bottom of the unit. i`ve seen this on recon units. there is corossion on the wires from coil to the rectifier . not even gonna open it up. i`ve replaced diodes on these things before and they worked. not taking chances with this one. i don`t need a breakdown in the middle of nowhere. there are no marks on this one anywhere.