mcm95403

Well, I think I've eaten my D36. It's making some noises that sound like loose chunks of metal. The u-joints are all tight and the sounds are ugly. I think the increased power and the 150K mile diff aren't a good combo.

Anybody close have a good 3.07 D36 they want to part with?

C409

..... You might want to buy three or four of those Dana 36s ..... ........

WVZR-1

I doubt that it ever saw any "maintenance" other than a fluid change! None of them are "maintenance free" - NONE. The way it's assembled in the car many just don't want the aggravation and they get run until they beak! D36 - D44 no difference just run until they fail and then it's the differentials fault!

A 3.07 should ship very inexpensively - I did my last one in a plastic tote not a cardboard box and with the tote it was less than 65#. If you found one it could be shipped easily is a smaller tote or a cardboard box, if the short axles are removed it gets very compact.

I don't have another 3.07 the last I had was quite nice with fresh bearings etc. I've got 3.75's only.

I don't believe you can actually just fault the D36 - time and miles!

If the case where the pinion shaft passes through is not "oblonged" I'd maybe take what you can find and build the case. Now if the ring and pinion is ruined - oh well!

mcm95403

From the crunchy noises I'm betting the R&P are trashed.

Of course, I'm just guessing at this point. I need to have someone outside verify where the sound is coming from.

WVZR-1

The pinions and the shaft are generally the most frequent failure, the shaft then the pinions. If that's done at speed then it's possible for a piece of the gear or gears get wedged between the ring gear and case which "windows" the case quickly. If the shaft drops hold on. If you take it apart now you might be surprised at what you find. Jacked up and with the drive-shaft "locked" you should be able to feel the damage by rotating a wheel. Unlock the drive-shaft and with complete rotations by the wheel you can maybe feel the damage further.

mcm95403

I jacked it up yesterday and rotated the tires by hand, and all I could hear was a squeak from the trans - sounded like the rear seal, like rubber on metal rather than metallic. I drove it around the little block we're on and still hear the noise which only happens under load. I'm starting to wonder if a converter bolt has worked loose.....

WVZR-1

That would make for a relatively straight forward fix.

Did you? With the drive-shaft "locked" slam it forward and back from say from 3 0'clock to 6 0'clock back to 3 0'clock - not a rotate but just slam it forward and back a few times. That would I think uncover differential gear issues in the pinions and side gears. Did you check the pinion back-lash/slack at the pinion?

Good luck with the loose convertor bolts!

mcm95403

Yep, everything in the rear end appeared good.

383vett

That squeak from an auto transmission is normal. It has been on every 700 and 4l60 that I have run (about 5) in my car. My tranny guy says it's a good sound.

kimmer

WVZR-1 Do the 3:73's come in the pumpkin? Just thinking out loud but if Marc would want my 3:07 pumpkin, well you know.

Y-ME

Do the D44 3:45 conversion.

WVZR-1

The new 3.75 I have is a new gear, bearings etc already assembled and includes the short-axles. I believe there's little need of him needing a rear but perhaps. You guys are pretty close!